This is the second post in a 7-part series about our Spain adventure! Once again, this was a port stop on a multi-country cruise. This segment focuses on our time in Valencia and our journey to the nearby city of Sagunto.
A Day of Architecture, History, and Hidden Rivers
Valencia’s City of Arts and Sciences
Our first stop of the day was the City of Arts and Sciences, where we spent a long while wandering and letting the architecture pull us from one angle to the next. Following catastrophic flooding in 1957, the River Turia was diverted in the southern section of the city and the old riverbed, now dry was used to create a ten-kilometer-long park crossing the city center. This unique complex is made up of five main elements: The Hemisfèric (includes an IMAX cinema), the Umbracle (car park), the Science Museum, the Oceanogràfic (largest aquarium in Europe) and the Palau de les Arts (an opera house). This latter one rises out of the water like something half organic, half spaceship and it’s impossible to walk ten feet without stopping for another photo. The curves, the reflections, the way the white surfaces catch the sun — it feels like Valencia built a playground specifically for photographers.
We followed the paths that wrap around the pools, watching the building shift shape depending on where we stood. One moment it looked like a Greek helmet, the next like a shell opening toward the sky. Even the sculptures scattered around the water add to the surreal, futuristic vibe, as if we’d wandered onto a movie set. It’s the kind of place where you don’t rush; you just keep circling, noticing new lines, new shadows, new reflections — and taking far more photos than you planned.
Valencia to Sagunto
On the drive north toward Sagunto, the landscape opened into wide agricultural plains dotted with thousands of orange groves. Row after row of citrus trees stretched toward the horizon — a reminder of just how central oranges are to this region’s identity and economy.
Sagunto Castle (Castell de Sagunt)
Sagunto’s defining landmark is its massive hilltop fortress, Sagunto Castle, stretching nearly a kilometer along the ridge. It’s a mix of Roman, Iberian, and medieval sections, with sweeping views over the coastline and the orange grove plains below. We didn’t have time to climb up and explore the interior, but even from the outside, the scale and history of the place are impressive.
Walking Through Sagunto’s City Plaza
Before reaching the church, we wandered through Plaza Major, Sagunto’s main plaza, a bright, open square framed by cafés, palm trees, and the kind of everyday life that makes small Spanish towns feel so inviting. A series of fountains bubbled in the center, sending up cool mist that drifted across the square whenever the breeze picked up. Kids chased each other around the water jets, older couples lingered on benches in the shade, and the whole place had that relaxed, sun-washed rhythm that makes you want to slow down and just take it in. The plaza felt like the natural heart of the town — a place where everything passes through eventually — and from there, the narrow streets began to climb gently toward the old quarter and the church tower peeking above the rooftops
Church of Santa María
From the plaza, we followed the winding streets into the old town and soon found ourselves standing before the Church of Santa María, its tall clock tower rising above the narrow lanes like a quiet guardian. Built over several centuries — beginning in the 14th century on the site of a former mosque — the church has that layered, time worn beauty that comes from centuries of architectural evolution. Gothic bones, Baroque flourishes, weathered stone… it all blends into something both grand and familiar.
One detail we loved: the streetlight fixtures decorated with bats. At first they seemed whimsical, but they’re actually tied to local history. The bat is a symbol of the Crown of Aragon — legend says one landed on King James I’s flag during the conquest of Valencia, a good omen that became part of the region’s heraldry. Today, bats appear everywhere in Valencian towns, from crests to lampposts, and Sagunto proudly carries on the tradition.
Jewish Museum of Sagunto
From the church, we wandered deeper into the Jewish Quarter, one of the most atmospheric corners of the city. It is one of the best-preserved medieval Jewish communities in Spain dating back to the 2nd century. Its narrow, twisting lanes still follow the medieval layout, and tucked into one of these quiet streets is the Jewish Museum of Sagunto. It’s small but beautifully curated — the kind of place where every object feels like it has a story. The exhibits highlight the long Jewish presence in Sagunto, especially during the Middle Ages, when the community here was one of the most important in the region. Ritual objects, gravestones, inscriptions, everyday items — all of it makes the history feel human and close.
Jewish Quarter (Barri Jueu)
We continued wandering through the Jewish Quarter, weaving back and forth through its narrow lanes, arches, and historic homes. It’s one of the most evocative parts of Sagunto, and the walk toward the Roman Theatre took us through some of the prettiest streets in town.
Roman Theatre of Sagunto
The Roman Theatre, carved directly into the hillside in the 1st century, is still used today for concerts and performances. Even from the outside, you can feel the weight of its history — a reminder of how deeply Roman culture shaped this region.
Sagunto Historical Museum
Nearby, the Sagunto Historical Museum offered a compact but rich collection of Roman sculptures, mosaics, inscriptions, and artifacts found throughout the ancient city. It tied together many of the threads encountered while walking through Sagunto’s streets.
Saint Joseph’s Caves (Coves de Sant Josep)
We ended the day with something completely different — a boat tour through the Saint Joseph Caves, one of Europe’s longest navigable underground rivers. The moment the boat pushed off, the heat outside vanished and we slipped into a cool, echoing world carved by water over millions of years. The river is perfectly still, a dark ribbon of glass that carries you deeper into the limestone. The caves themselves are ancient in every sense. Archaeologists have found signs of human presence dating back to the Upper Paleolithic, and later the Iberians and Romans used the caves long before Sagunto became the fortified town it is today. Knowing that made the silence feel heavier, like we were drifting through a place that has always been part of human curiosity.
As we moved through the softly lit tunnels, the rock formations curled and folded like frozen waves. We ducked under low ceilings, laughed when the guide teased us about “watching our heads,” and let the cool quiet settle in. It’s part geology, part archaeology, part peaceful underground escape — and by the time we stepped back into the sunlight, it felt like we’d been somewhere secret, tucked beneath the mountains and waiting for anyone willing to float in and listen.
Next Stop: Barcelona
After a full day of futuristic architecture, ancient history, and underground rivers, we’re packing up and heading to Barcelona for our next stop — ready for Gaudí, the Gothic Quarter, and whatever surprises the city has waiting for us.
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