This is Part 5 of our grand, 7-part Spain journey. After a spectacular time in Madrid, we headed south into the heart of Andalusia. Our destination was the historic city of Córdoba for a multi-day deep dive into its Roman and Moorish past, including a brilliant excursion into the vibrant streets of Seville.
Day 1: Roman Roots and Islamic Splendor
Córdoba Train Station
Our adventure began at Madrid’s Puerta de Atocha station, where we boarded the high-speed AVE train. The journey south to the Córdoba Train Station took just under two hours, cutting through the sweeping plains of Castilla-La Mancha before winding into the olive-grove-dotted hills of Andalusia.
Hotel Córdoba Center
Upon arrival, we checked into the Hotel Córdoba Center. Situated just a short walk from the train station in the city’s modern commercial area, it gave us a great, accessible arrival point. While it was incredibly convenient for the trains, its location just north of the historic center meant we ended up taking a quick taxi to get down into the heart of the old town for our sightseeing.
The Historic Streets of Córdoba
Córdoba is a city meant for wandering. Its whitewashed alleyways, hidden inner patios bursting with geraniums, and cobblestone lanes offer visual surprises around every corner. In the 10th century, Córdoba was the most advanced city in Europe, surpassing Paris and London in population, science and wealth. It was a shining beacon of coexistence where Muslims, Christians and Jews lived and worked alongside one another.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba (Mezquita)
The absolute star of our visit was the breathtaking Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba (Mezquita Catedral). We’ve been to more cathedrals than we can reasonably count and this was truly unique! Walking inside is an unforgettable experience. Originally founded as a mosque by Abd al-Rahman I in 785 AD, it was progressively expanded over centuries into a mesmerizing forest of over 800 red-and-white striped double arches. When the Christians reclaimed the city during the Reconquista in 1236, rather than tearing it down, they built a towering Renaissance and Baroque cathedral nave right in the center of the structure. The architectural contrast between Islamic geometric beauty and Catholic grandeur is utterly unique.
The Roman Bridge (Puente Romano)
Just a short walk from the Mezquita, we reached the banks of the Guadalquivir River to cross the magnificent Roman Bridge. Originally constructed in the early 1st century BC during Roman rule, the bridge has been restored many times over the millennia (notably by the Moors). For 20 centuries it was the only bridge in the city. Today, it is completely pedestrianized, functioning as a vibrant walkway where visitors can stroll across the ancient stone arches and look back at the iconic silhouette of the city. The bridge has 16 arches over a length of 331 meters.
Day 2: Fortresses, Underground Baths, and Hidden Ruins
The Historic Fortress Walls
We began our second day tracking the city’s ancient defenses. Much of the formidable historic fortress walls that once protected the city from invaders remain beautifully intact, framing the western edge of the old quarter.
Caliphal Baths
Right nearby, we explored the Caliphal Baths (Baños del Alcázar Califal). Venturing underground, we stood in the preserved, vaulted chambers of the royal bathhouse (baños árabes). Built in the 10th century for Alfonso XI, these baths were modeled directly after Islamic design, featuring star-shaped skylights that allowed columns of sunlight to cut through the subterranean steam. Bath houses were common in Muslim cities serving both a social and religious purpose – but primarily for hygiene.
In the baths we find 3 well-differentiated areas that correspond to reforms from different periods. There’s a caliphal bath to the east that includes a changing room, a cold room, a warm room and a hot room. There’s a reception hall from the Taifa period that includes a garden, a fountain next to the living room and side “hidden” corridors that permitted staff to move from place to place without being seen. There’s a bath from the Almohad period (12th century) to the west with a new private bathroom, a small pond for users to wash their feet and a new set of cold, warm and hot rooms.
Plaza de las Tendillas
Our walking tour eventually led us to the vibrant heart of modern Córdoba: the Plaza de las Tendillas. This wide, sunny square is famous for its grand 19th-century architecture, lively fountains (32 jets of water), and the equestrian statue of Gran Capitán Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba. It’s the perfect spot for people-watching and photography.
The Roman Temple Ruins
Just a few minutes from the plaza, we stumbled onto a striking temporal contrast: the Roman Temple of Córdoba. Discovered during a city hall expansion in the 1950s, these towering Corinthian columns mark what was once the city’s most important civic temple, dedicated to imperial worship during the late 1st century AD.
Archaeological Museum of Córdoba
To tie everything together, we spent a fascinating afternoon at the Archaeological Museum. What makes this museum incredible is its layout—it is built directly over the excavated remains of the city’s ancient Roman Theater, which was once one of the largest in the Roman Empire. Walking through the exhibits gives you a profound appreciation for just how many layers of civilization sit directly beneath your feet.
Day 3: A Day Trip to Radiant Seville
Córdoba to Seville Train Ride
On our third day, we caught an early morning train from Córdoba to Seville, a swift 45-minute ride further southwest down the Guadalquivir valley. Seville immediately greeted us with its grand scale, operatic romanticism, and orange-tree-lined avenues.
We happen to arrive on the first day of the 6-day Feria de Abril Fair (Seville April Fair). The festival is a vibrant celebration of Andalusian culture, combining traditional music, dance, horse-drawn carriages, gastronomy and social gatherings. What began as a 19th-century livestock market has grown into one of Spain’s most recognizable festivals. They estimate approximately 5 million people come to Seville for this event over the course of the 6 days (peak attendance is typically on Fridays at around 850,000). We meet our guide and we are grateful he knows the ins and out of navigating around the influx of people…including knowing where and how to hail a cab (which might include standing in the middle of the road at a stoplight and sort of throwing himself in front of an empty one).
Seville Cathedral
Our first stop was the colossal Seville Cathedral, the largest Gothic church in the world. When built, it was the largest cathedral in the world, surpassing the Hagia Sophia that had held that honor for almost 1000 year. The Cathedral was registered in 1987 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site along with the adjoining Alcázar palace complex.
Built over the remnants of the city’s Almohad Mosque (of which the famous Giralda bell tower remains), its interior is dizzyingly immense. After Seville’s conquest by Ferdinand III, the mosque was converted into the city’s cathedral meant to demonstrate the city’s wealth. Its orientation was changed and its spaces revamped and adorned to suit Christian worship practices. The internal space was divided into chapels by constructing walls along the north and south walls. Almost the entire eastern half of the cathedral was occupied by the royal chapel that today holds the bodies of Ferdinand and his wife.
To our surprise and delight, our tour guide is able to “jump the line” by connecting with another guide from his company who is already waiting in line. And there they were – 6 people we had toured with back in Madrid on an all-day small group tour! After brief hugs and catch-up conversation, time flies by and we enter this magnificent structure.
The central nave rises to a height of 138 feet and features a great boxlike choir loft which fills the central portion of the nave. The vast Gothic retable contains carves scenes from the life of Christ. The doors are impressive too – there is the Door of Baptism (depicts the baptism of Jesus), the Door of Assumption (depicts the assumption of Mary into heaven), and the Door of the Nativity (represents the birth of Jesus – only open during the Holy Week processions – just to name a few. The original twin organs were destroyed in the earthquake of 1888 but were replaced with twin organs in the very early 1900’s played via one central four-tier console. There are a total of 80 chapels, numerous religious tapestries and contains the remains of over a dozen important Spanish people.
The Crypt of Christopher Columbus
The highlight inside is undoubtedly the tomb of Christopher Columbus. His remains are held aloft in an enormous, theatrical monument borne by four massive heraldic figures, representing the four kingdoms of Spain during his era: Castile, Leon, Aragon, and Navarre. Standing before it feels like looking directly at a pivot point in world history. Columbus’s expeditions inaugurated a period of exploration, conquest and colonization that lasted for centuries. In search of a trade route to the East Indies, he made 4 total voyages to the Americas and is credited with naming the indigenous people “indians”.
Royal Alcázar of Seville & Gardens
Just up the street sits the Royal Alcázar, a royal palace complex that is still used by the Spanish royal family today. It is widely considered one of the finest surviving examples of Mudéjar architecture and design. It was built on the former site of the Islamic-era citadel (10th century) when the Christians took over. The Christian kings hired Moorish craftsmen to build stunningly intricate, geometric stucco halls. The palace is renowned for its ornate tile decorations. Some tiles are flat and painted while others are created by pressing clay into molds. The tiles are primarily of geometric design or plants since Islamic tradition doesn’t allow for depiction of people or animals. As the Christian influence evolved, tiles began to show more figurative designs including religious scenes and historical events.
After marveling at the interiors, we spent hours getting lost in its sprawling, lush gardens, which feature maze-like hedges, reflecting pools, and pavilions hidden among palms and orange trees.
Downtown Seville Exploration
Leaving the palace, we took time to wander through the heart of downtown Seville. The city’s energy is palpable, filled with narrow alleys opening into sunlit squares, vibrant cafe patios, and beautiful historic storefronts.
Plaza de España
We wrapped up our sightseeing at the breathtaking Plaza de España. It was constructed for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929 to showcase Spain’s architectural heritage and regional diversity. Each of Spain’s 48 provinces is honored here in a beautiful tiled alcoves. The huge semi-circular building is flanked by two towers with a 1/3-mile canal that runs from the North to the South Tower that is crossed by four beautiful, ornate bridges earning its nickname of “Venice of Seville”. People row small boats under the shadow of the two massive towers. This is one of the most photographed places in Seville.
Late Seafood Lunch at Caladero
Before heading back to the train station, we treated ourselves to a fantastic, late Andalusian lunch at a local seafood restaurant, taste-testing some local fried fish (pescaíto frito) and fresh shrimp.
Summary
Our three days based in Córdoba were an absolute blast—a perfect balance of monumental history, winding old quarters, and great food. Now, our luggage is packed, and we are off to Granada next as our unforgettable Spanish adventure continues!
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