This is the fourth post of our 7-part series about our Spain adventure! If you are planning a trip to central Spain, there is no better way to do it than using the vibrant capital of Madrid as your anchor. We recently spent five incredible days exploring the bustling grand avenues of Madrid while using Spain’s fantastic rail system to take unforgettable day trips to historic regions like Toledo, Segovia and Ávila.
From 300-year-old restaurants and Roman engineering marvels to fairy-tale castles, here is a day-by-day look at our Madrid Spanish adventure.
Day 1: The Bullet Train to Madrid & Settling In
Our journey began in the afternoon as we boarded the high-speed bullet train from Barcelona to Madrid. The 2.5-hour ride flew by, offering beautiful, sweeping views of the Spanish countryside. We departed at 3:00 PM and rolled into Madrid’s grand station right on time at 5:30 PM.
Arriving at Hotel Preciados
After securing transportation from the station, we checked into the Hotel Preciados. If you are looking for the perfect base camp in Madrid, this highly rated, 4-star boutique hotel is tough to beat. It occupies a beautifully restored 19th-century building that seamlessly blends a historic Castilian facade with modern interior comforts.
The big selling point here is the location on Calle de Preciados—it is a vibrant pedestrian shopping avenue just a 5-minute stroll from Gran Vía and the iconic Puerta del Sol. Plus, they offer a complimentary minibar stocked with water, soft drinks, and beer that is replenished daily!
First Impressions & A Street Café Dinner
Once we unpacked and settled in, we went out to wander the local streets. Because it was getting late and we were still a bit tired from a full day of touring back in Barcelona, we kept things simple. We found a charming little street café nearby and grabbed a quick dinner of—surprisingly enough—quesadillas! It was exactly the quick, light bite we needed before retiring early to rest up for a busy walking tour the next morning.
Day 2: Old Town Madrid Walking Tour
On our first official morning in the capital, we enjoyed breakfast and met our local guide in the hotel lobby at 8:30 AM to begin a comprehensive walking tour of Madrid’s historic old town.
The Icons of Puerta del Sol
Our very first stop was the roaring heart of Madrid: Puerta del Sol. This bustling plaza serves as the symbolic, historical, and geographical center of all of Spain. The Puerta del Sol originated as one of the gates in the city wall that surrounded Madrid in the 15th century and was the first square in all of Spain to have electric street lighting (1883). Today, the square is pedestrian-friendly allowing visitors to enjoy its openness, new fountains, and cutting-edge lighting without traffic interruptions.
We took our time capturing photos of the plaza’s four essential icons:
1. The Clock Tower of the Casa de Correos: The 18th-century red-brick building that captures the attention of the entire nation every New Year’s Eve during the traditional eating of the twelve grapes. It is the oldest building in the square.
2. Kilometre Zero Plaque (Kilómetro Cero): A small stone and brass plaque embedded in the pavement mark the precise point from which all radial national roads in Spain are measured.
3. The Bear and the Strawberry Tree (El Oso y el Madroño): A famous 13-foot-tall bronze statue representing Madrid’s medieval heraldic coat of arms. Tourists and visitors have taken up the habit of touching the bear’s tail or heal with the thought that doing so brings good luck. This gesture has caused the tail and heal to discolor which seems to encourage the behavior.
4. The Equestrian Statue of Charles III: A monument dedicated to the Enlightenment-era monarch fondly nicknamed “the best mayor of Madrid.”
Traveler’s Tip: While the plaza was recently fully pedestrianized and is beautiful to walk through, keep your wits about you! We were bothered off and on by local pickpockets attempting distraction techniques, but our guide quickly shooed them away.
The Historic Grandeur of Plaza Mayor
From Puerta del Sol, a short walk brought us into the breathtaking, uniform square of the Plaza Mayor. Our guide gave us an incredible history lesson here. While it is peaceful today, this 400-year-old enclosed square was once the primary stage for royal bullfights, massive celebrations, and the grim public trials and executions of the Spanish Inquisition. It had to be completely rebuilt by architect Juan de Villanueva after three catastrophic fires gutted its original wooden structures in the 17th and 18th centuries.
A Glimpse of Sobrino de Botín
Just outside the south arches of the square, we stopped to snap photos of Sobrino de Botín on Calle de Cuchilleros. Founded in 1725, it holds the Guinness World Record as the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world! While it wasn’t open for service yet so early in the morning, we managed to peek inside to admire its atmospheric 18th-century tavern layout and its famous, 300-year-old holm-oak wood oven.
Tasting Culture at Mercado de San Miguel
Next, we stepped into the spectacular glass-and-iron canopy of the Mercado de San Miguel. Opened in 1916, it is the only structural iron market left completely intact in Madrid. Unlike the traditional raw produce markets we saw in Barcelona, San Miguel is an upscale, continuous gourmet tapas hall. It was pure eye candy inside—packed with stalls slicing premium Iberian ham, shucking fresh Galician oysters, and pouring sweet vermouth straight from the tap. We spent a fun 30 minutes absorbing the lively, social atmosphere.
The Modern Splendor of Catedral de la Almudena
Moving westward, we caught our first glimpse of the Catedral de la Almudena, which sits directly adjacent to the palace across the wide Plaza de la Armería. The cathedral has a uniquely modern history; construction began in 1883 but dragged on through political upheaval and the Spanish Civil War, finally being consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1993. Its grey-and-white Neoclassical exterior perfectly mirrors the palace, but the interior surprises you with vibrant, pop-art-inspired modern frescoes and colorful geometric stained glass.
Exploring the Royal Palace of Madrid
Directly across the plaza, we spent a couple of hours touring the magnificent Royal Palace of Madrid. Boasting a staggering 3,418 rooms, it is the largest functioning royal palace in Europe and one of the largest in the world. Almost 2 million visitors come every year to explore one of the few official Heads of State residences open to the public. Built entirely of fireproof granite and limestone in the mid-1700s after the old medieval fortress burned down, the rooms are an opulent blur of velvet wall coverings, massive Venetian mirrors, royal armor, and ceilings painted by masters like Tiepolo.
There are three main areas to explore. The Salón del Trono (Throne Room), also called the Hall of Realms or Ambassadors, is one of the symbols of the continuity of the Spanish monarchy. It houses some of the best artistic collections around Spain’s heritage. It also has 12 massive mirrors with opulent frames wrapped in gold-leaf. And of course – it contains the throne where the King and Queen sit as their guests enter the room to greet them. The Salón de Columnas (Hall of Columns) was supposed to be equipped with 2 staircases – one for the King’s Room and the other for the Queen’s Room – but only one was ever built. The area meant for the second staircase became a ballroom for dances and functions. In 1788, Charles IV had the staircase moved to its current location. One highlight of this space is a painting entitled “The Sun Animates Nature & The Seasons”. It also contains a series of paintings, “The Planets”, classical busts and exquisitely woven tapestries from the 17th century. The Real Armería (Royal Armory) is one of the jewels of Spanish History and is considered one of the most important in Europe along with the Imperial Armory of Vienna. The collection covers the whole of the 16th century in the midst of the Renaissance, the 17th century when armor began to lose its importance as firearms took over swords, and the 18th century’s military trophies and diplomatic gifts of a more luxurious nature.
The Stradivarius Palatine Collection: A Royal Treasure
This was an unexpected surprise but given all the other treasures and opulence of the palace, we suppose it shouldn’t have been. Tucked away inside the Royal Palace of Madrid lies what is widely considered the finest collection of Stradivarius instruments in the world: the Palatine Quartet (Decorated Quartet).
While other institutions own original Stradivarius instruments, Madrid’s collection is entirely unique because the instruments were specifically crafted to be played together as a chamber group, giving them a perfectly unified sound and color. Because a matched, decorated quartet is virtually non-existent anywhere else on Earth, experts look at individual valuations as a baseline. If a single high-profile Stradivarius can command $15M to $20M, a complete, historically unified, and uniquely decorated royal quartet—plus an extra cello—would easily be valued well north of $100 million USD on the open market today, making it one of the most expensive musical collections in human history.
Garden Views at Plaza de Oriente & Café de Oriente
We wrapped up our tour at the adjacent Plaza de Oriente, admiring the manicured hedge mazes and the statues of historic Spanish monarchs. We treated ourselves to a fantastic, relaxed late afternoon lunch at the historic Café de Oriente, sitting out on the pedestrian terrace to enjoy a glass of wine with an unobstructed view of the palace facade.
Rooftop at the Hotel
By the time we strolled back to the hotel, the sun was beginning to dip. We grabbed a bottle of wine and spent some time relaxing on the upper-tier balcony on top of our hotel, taking in the panoramic views of the Madrid skyline. What a lovely respite!
Sourdough Pizza at PizzArt
For dinner, Nancy was craving pizza, so we tracked down a stylish local spot called PizzArt. They serve authentic, Roman-style artisanal pizzas with a 48-hour fermented sourdough crust baked in wood-fired ovens. The ingredients were incredibly fresh and delicious—the perfect cap to an unforgettable, full day of exploring. This was definitely a gem in Madrid worth seeking out – it was just off the main tourist area and not crowded (it probably will be once everyone discovers it).
Day 3: A Day Trip to Historic Toledo
On day three, we headed to the station early to catch a 30-minute bullet train south to the legendary cliffside city of Toledo.
Postcard Panoramas at Mirador del Valle
Upon arriving at Toledo’s beautiful, historic train station, we met our guide and drove straight to the Mirador del Valle (The Valley Lookout). This viewpoint sits on the ring road across the river gorge and offers the definitive postcard view of Toledo. You can see the Tagus River wrapping completely around the high granite bluff, with the ancient city towering above.
The Iron Chains of Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes
Our walking tour officially began at the 15th-century Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes. Built by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand, it features a stunning, peaceful Late Gothic cloister. The most fascinating feature is on the exterior granite walls, which are draped in the original iron chains and manacles worn by Christian captives who were freed after the conquest of Granada. Seeing those chains hanging there, exactly where they’ve been for over 500 years, was a remarkable brush with history.
School of Arts and Crafts of Toledo
As we walk past the monastery we pass by the beautiful Arts and Crafts school building.
Intricate Stucco at Synagogue of El Tránsito
Next we walked through the historic quarter to the 14th-century Synagogue of El Tránsito. Built by Samuel ha-Levi, the treasurer to King Peter of Castile, the main prayer hall features some of the most intricate, breathtaking Mudéjar stucco work, Arabic inscriptions, and geometric wooden ceilings you will ever lay eyes on. Today, it beautifully houses the National Sephardic Museum.
Masterpieces Inside the Cathedral of Toledo, Primate of Spain
From there, we made our way to the monumental Cathedral of Toledo, Primate of Spain. Considered the absolute masterpiece of Gothic architecture in Spain, this colossal 13th-century structure is jaw-dropping. The interior feels less like a church and more like a world-class art treasury. We were completely spellbound by the Transparente—a spectacular, towering Baroque altarpiece illuminated by a unique skylight cut into the soaring stone vaults above—and the Sacristy gallery, which displays masterworks by El Greco, Goya, and Titian.
Castilian Tapas at Cervecería El Trébol
After working up an appetite, we wandered into a charming pedestrian alleyway just behind the Plaza de Zocodover and found Cervecería El Trébol. Built directly into the stone remnants of Toledo’s old Islamic fortress walls, this tavern had immense atmosphere. We ordered cold drinks and a spread of regional Castilian tapas, including their famous Bomba Trébol (a crispy, meat-stuffed fried potato ball topped with aioli and spicy brava sauce) and Carcamusas (a rich, slow-simmered pork and chorizo stew served in a clay ramekin).
Exploring Toledo
After lunch we continued walking and exploring the streets until it came time for us to catch our return train. In retrospect, we wish we had taken a later train back to Madrid but you can’t see it all and someday when we return, we will still have things to see here.
Walking the Historic Puente de San Martín
As we left the town we wandered through one of the main stone gates of the city walls, crossing the spectacular 14th-century Gothic Puente de San Martín bridge which guards the western side of the river gorge and offers fantastic structural framing of the old defense towers.
A Relaxing Walk Back From the Train Station
Our return train from Toledo gets us back to Madrid with a few good hours left of daylight and we decide to take a different path back to our hotel.
Late Bites at La Quintina
For a late dinner, we ducked into La Quintina, a down-to-earth, narrow Castilian joint hidden just off the frantic noise of Gran Vía. We shared a few classic raciones (shareable plates-including an incredible caprese salad) and snacked on this excellent traditional food before heading back to the hotel to crash after another stellar day of adventuring.
Protesters Near Our Hotel
As we finally approached our hotel, we encountered a massive, high-energy teacher protest filling the grand square. Everyone was wearing matching yellow shirts and making plenty of noise with horns and noisemakers. We carefully navigated our way around the edges of the crowd without any hassle and made it back to our hotel.
Day 4: Gran Vía, El Retiro, and Golden Age Art
Our fourth morning began with an architectural walking tour tracing the grand “Madrid of the Bourbons” era.
Architectural Marvels of Gran Vía
We started down Gran Vía, the vibrant grand avenue often called the “Spanish Broadway.” Walking this street requires keeping your eyes on the skyline; the early 20th-century buildings feature spectacular Belle Époque and Art Deco facades topped by massive, ornate stone statues. The highlight is the legendary Metrópolis Building, with its striking black slate dome detailed in 24-karat gold leaf.
At Gran Via 31, on top of the building, the Diana the Huntress sculpture is depicted in a pose of aiming and shooting. Two of her arrows miss their mark and land on the ground in front of the building at Gran Vía 32 across the street. The “target” she is pointing at is a sculpture of the mortal shepherd Endimión on the roof of the building at Gran Vía 32. This pairing is part of a deliberate design story linking the two buildings.
The Grand Palacio de Cibeles
At the end of the avenue sits the magnificent Palacio de Cibeles. It is a building so grand, white, and flamboyant that it’s hard to believe it was originally constructed in 1919 to serve as a central post office! Affectionately nicknamed the “Cathedral of Communications,” it was fully renovated in 2007 to become Madrid’s official City Hall, though it still preserves the historic marble writing counters inside its sun-drenched atrium.
The Battle-Scarred Puerta de Alcalá
A short walk up the hill brought us to the Puerta de Alcalá in the center of Plaza de la Independencia. This majestic Neoclassical triumphal arch was built in 1778 by Sabatini and serves as the grand entryway to El Retiro Park. If you look closely at the granite blocks, you can still see the actual battle scars—chips and indentations left behind by shrapnel and bullets from historic conflicts like the Napoleonic invasion.
Wandering Through El Retiro Park
We passed through the gates into the 350-acre expanse of El Retiro Park, a magnificent UNESCO World Heritage site. We strolled down the wide, tree-lined paths to the Grand Pond, watching the classic blue rowboats drift past the colossal marble monument of King Alfonso XII. We then made our way to the breathtaking Crystal Palace—a soaring pavilion made almost entirely of glass and iron reflecting beautifully off a duck-filled lake—and finished our walk winding through the elegant, fragrant pathways of the park’s Rose Garden.
Legendary Collections at The Prado Museum
Exiting the park brought us straight onto the beautiful Paseo del Prado boulevard, dropping us right into Madrid’s “Golden Triangle of Art.” Our next stop was the world-famous Prado Museum. Housed in a grand 18th-century neoclassical building, it holds an unmatched collection of European masterpieces. The entire collection comprises around 8,200 drawings, 7,600 paintings, 4,800 prints, and 1,000 sculptures, in addition to many other works of art and historic documents. As of 2012, the museum displayed about 1,300 works in the main buildings (other items are either out on loan or in storage). While they strictly prohibit photography inside the galleries, it was a profound experience to stand face-to-face with legendary works like Diego Velázquez’s Las Meninas and Francisco Goya’s haunting Black Paintings.
Scale Models at The Naval Museum of Madrid
Just a 3-minute stroll up the boulevard, we spent an hour exploring the Naval Museum of Madrid. Because Spain ruled the global oceans for centuries, this museum houses an incredible collection of maritime history. We walked past beautifully preserved ornamental cannons, historic flags, and an extensive array of highly detailed, massive scale room models of historic Spanish galleons and warships from the Age of Discovery.
Ancient Heritage at The National Archaeological Museum (MAN)
After lunch, we wrapped up our cultural tour at the National Archaeological Museum (MAN) in the elegant Salamanca neighborhood. The museum was beautifully modernized in recent years. We spent an hour and a half exploring its galleries, tracking down its ultimate crown jewel: The Lady of Elche, a remarkably preserved, mysterious stone bust dating back to the 4th century BC.
A Literary Dinner at Café Varela
Exhausted from our massive cross-city trek, we decided to dine right at our hotel’s restaurant, the historic Café Varela. Originally founded in 1884, it is a legendary literary landmark that historically hosted the city’s intellectual gatherings of famous poets and writers like the Machado brothers. The kitchen specializes in traditional Galician and Castilian cuisine. We had a truly wonderful dinner, enjoying fresh seafood and regional specialties in a refined, comfortable atmosphere before retiring to the room.
Day 5: The Medieval Stones of Segovia & Ávila
Our final day was a spectacular double-header excursion through the ancient plains of Castile and León, stepping back in time to visit Segovia and Ávila.
Part 1: The Monumental History of Segovia
The Spired Towers of the Alcázar of Segovia
Our morning began at the absolute western tip of Segovia’s rocky ridge to tour the magnificent Alcázar of Segovia. Rising dramatically over a sheer cliff face at the confluence of two rivers, this stunning castle features steep slate roofs and soaring spired towers that famously served as the primary inspiration for both Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle and the Wicked Queen’s castle in Snow White & The Seven Dwarfs. We toured its opulent royal rooms, marveling at the Hall of the Kings with its golden ceiling and a carved frieze tracking 52 seated statues of historic Spanish monarchs. While our schedule didn’t allow time to climb the narrow steps of the keep tower, the castle itself was incredible to explore.
Gothic Pinnacles at Segovia Cathedral
Dominating the plaza sits the monumental Segovia Cathedral. Affectionately called “The Lady of Cathedrals” due to its immense elegance, it was the last major Gothic cathedral built in Spain (completed in the 1700s). The 3-story exterior is a dizzying forest of stone pinnacles and flying buttresses that look like delicate stone lace, while the soaring interior is flooded with vibrant light from 16th-century-stained glass.
The Vibrant Hub of Plaza Mayor
From the cathedral, we walked back through the old town to the grand Plaza Mayor. The square was beautifully vibrant and crowded, surrounded by elegant historic buildings and bustling outdoor cafe terraces.
In medieval times, it served as the main market square where merchants from all over Spain would come to trade their goods and was used as a venue for bullfights until 1785. In addition to its commercial role, Plaza Mayor played an important part in religious ceremonies and royal festivities during different periods in history. For instance, following Catholic traditions dating back centuries; processions often pass through here during Holy Week celebrations. In fact, Holy Week was only 2 weeks prior and the sidewalks and roads are still dotted with wax dripping from candles. Our guide tells us it can take as much as 2 months for the wax to fully go away.
A Traditional Castilian Lunch at Restaurante Muñoz
After working up an appetite from our walk across the upper town, we stopped for lunch at Restaurante Muñoz, a classic family-run establishment serving the neighborhood since 1981. Located just a short 3-minute walk from the Aqueduct, it offered a wonderful, authentic local atmosphere away from the heavier tourist crowds. We sat down in their spacious dining room and enjoyed an incredible meal of traditional Castilian comfort food, highlighting their signature Cochinillo Asado (roast suckling pig) with its perfectly crispy, golden skin, and a rich starter of Judiones de La Granja (large, creamy farm beans slow-simmered with chorizo).
The Granite Masterpiece of the Roman Aqueduct
To wrap up our time in Segovia, we walked downhill to the absolute centerpiece and highlight of the lower valley: the monumental Roman Aqueduct. Towering over the entrance plaza at a maximum height of nearly 93 feet, it was built around the 1st century AD using roughly 20,400 blocks of solid granite—held together by absolutely no mortar or cement, standing purely on perfect balance and gravity. The Aqueduct was constructed to transport water from the Rio Frio, located approximately 11 miles from the city of Segovia to its fountains, baths, and private homes. What remains is 2665 feet in length and boasts 167 arches.
It is incredibly hard to believe this bridge carried mountain water across the valley all the way up until the late 20th century! Standing at the base and looking up through those massive stone arches was the perfect grand finale to our morning before we made the transition over to Ávila.
Part 2: The Mighty Fortress of Ávila
The Complete Ramparts of the Fortress Walls
After lunch, we made the transition over to the city of Ávila. Perched on a flat-topped ridge over 3,600 feet above sea level, it is famously known as the “Town of Stones and Saints.” As we approached, we stopped at an overlook outside the town to take in the breathtaking views of the Walls of Ávila. It is the finest, most completely preserved medieval city wall complex in all of Europe, forming a continuous, unbroken stone loop stretching 1.5 miles around the old town, complete with 88 semi-circular watchtowers and 9 monumental gates.
Underground Tombs at The Basilica of San Vicente
We entered through the grand gates and made our first stop at the 12th-century Basilica of San Vicente, an absolute masterpiece of Romanesque architecture with an elegant grand porch. We even walked down into the ancient stone crypts located directly beneath the church.
Ávila Streets
From the Basilica of San Vicente, we walked through the streets of Ávila until we arrived at our next destination, the Convent of Saint Teresa. Inaugurated in 1636, the convent was built on the site of the birthplace of Saint Teresa. The church has a baroque façade, and the interior uses a Latin cross floor plan with numerous magnificent sculptures in the side naves.
Sacred Relics at The Convent of Saint Teresa
Our final historic stop was the Bascilica of Saint Teresa, a beautiful Baroque church. We toured the interior, which features a dedicated museum housing her historical documents and—of all things—a piece of her finger preserved inside a glass reliquary case!
Our Last Evening
After an incredible day of castles and medieval walls, we headed back to Madrid. We caught a quick, casual bite to eat at an outdoor street café, O’Valiño. One of their specialties was Grilled Octopus – and Nancy ordered it (for the first time) – and it was as delicious as our son described.
We stopped at a local wine store, bought a bottle and headed up once again to the hotel’s rooftop veranda. A really great way to end our stay in Madrid!
Summary & What’s Next!
Our anchor stay in Madrid was absolutely flawless, but our Spanish journey is far from over. We have to wake up early tomorrow morning to catch the train south into Andalusia. Next stop: Córdoba! Stay tuned!
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