Table of Contents
Background
We have always dreamed of an Alaska road trip but given its distance from our home and the geographic size of this destination, we intentionally left this off the plate until we had time to do it right. So now that we’re both retired and have more flexibility, it was time and as a result, we have put a travel framework in place where we will leave in the spring and return home just before the holiday season.
This has been by far the longest and most complex trip that Nancy and I have ever put together with the initial planning starting back in 2018. We had read and researched this off and on over the last couple years but in June of last year we finally we set a target date and started to plan in detail.
The plan has evolved quite a bit since we started, and we have had to deal with number of challenges but finally, we feel we are about as locked and loaded for trip as we can possibly be.
How We Will Travel on this Trip
We constantly get asked “do you have a RV”? The answer is: “Not anymore, we travel in the ‘Brown Beast'” For a complete explanation our reasoning check out this earlier post: How we decided our approach to retirement road tripping

The Brown Beast
Challenges
Arranging for the house to be taken care of
One of the repeating challenges of travelling for an extended period time is arranging for the house to be taken care of. This includes everything from mowing the grass, managing the mail, watering plants to the feeding fish. We arranged to get most of this covered with a couple of friends who are going to live at the house and care for it while we travel so we will have complete peace of mind.
A Wedding in Florida
When we initially started to frame out this adventure, we thought we would take 6-8 weeks to get to Fairbanks Alaska in time for the Summer Solstice Festival. We wanted to watch baseball starting at 10 PM at night where lights are not needed!
In the meantime, our youngest son got engaged and set a wedding date in Miami, Florida in mid-May. This cut the time to reach our destination down to about 30 days. In the end this worked out well.
Since we were already going to be in Miami, we decided we would go all the way down to Key West (post-wedding) and launch the trip from there to Prudhoe Bay, Alaska. That way we can say we travelled from the warmth of the sub tropics to the artic ocean in one trip; from the southernmost point in the USA to darn near the northern most point. Fun Fact: the northern most point is Point Barrow, Alaska.
Distance and Remoteness
We intend to explore as much of Alaska as we possibly can in the “Brown Beast” (our Tundra Crewmax). Even with the distance and remoteness of areas like the Dalton Highway to Prudhoe Bay, there are scattered lodging options.
However, planning in advance has presented challenges such as places not taking reservations in advance and getting cancelled out of reservations because someone has offered to rent the entire place for the season. “I am sorry, but I just can’t refuse a full season rental.” This has happened to us 4 times and forced us to get creative with solutions. Truth is in every situation; I believe we came up with an improved plan
Covid 19 and driving the Alaska Highway
Originally, we planned to drive up through Canada along the Alaska Highway all the way up to Dawson City, Yukon before crossing the border into Alaska. We gambled that Canada would open up and the National Parks would reopen and the onerous Covid restrictions placed on Americans would be dropped by the time we left in the spring.
This was all planned and booked (about a year in advance) but after looking a few weeks ago (4 month prior to our departure), we decided to pull the plug on this approach and avoid Canada all together. We had always planned to travel to Alaska more than once in our life and always assumed our next trip would be by the Alaska Ferry up the intercoastal waterway. Looks like we’ll be taking the ferry this time and doing the drive next time.
The Alaska Ferry System
The Alaska Ferry runs twice a month out of Bellingham, Washington, so catching the ferry required timing our travel differently. With our original plan, we were going to take 19 days to travel from the Canadian border to the Alaskan border, enjoying Canada along the way. The ferry ride from Bellingham to Whittier is 5 days. We decided to break that ride up by travelling 3 days to Juneau, a 5-day stopover in Juneau before catching the ferry north to Whittier.
This was completely booked when a new wrench hit our plans. We received a call from the Alaska ferry services that the normal ferry from Juneau to Whittier was going to have to be taken out of service and the replacement ferry didn’t have room for us. The next available sail to from Juneau to Whittier was mid-July (and note that is after the summer solstice). This voice mail came late at night after the office had closed and we were in extreme panic mode as the only way out of Juneau is by ferry.
The next morning, we called the Alaska Ferry Office and worked out an alternative plan to take the ferry from Juneau to Haines, Alaska instead of Whittier. This however comes with the caveat that we have to cross the Canadian border from Haines in order to get into mainland Alaska.
We called the Canadian border station to get the specifics for the crossing (you need a negative Covid test within 72 hours of crossing) and we contacted the only place in Haines where one can get a Covid test. We are also going to have file travel plans with Canada that include a quarantine plan in case we test positive. Finally, we had to modify reservations again since we’d be re-entering Alaska from Tok as opposed to Whittier.
Sections of the Trip
As we pushed the planning for this trip down into the day-to-day / week-to-week details, we have come to think of it in terms of these 4 major segments.
- The wedding in Miami and the trip to Key West and back.
- The cross-country trip to Bellingham Washington and the ferry up to Haines
- The summer in Alaska and the return ferry to Bellingham
- The return trip home from Bellingham down the Pacific Highway to San Diego and the back across the country to our home in Virginia.
Section 1 – The Wedding in Miami and the Trip to Key West and Back

Virginia to Key West
Stop 1: Beaufort, South Carolina
Overview
We are going to stop over and visit family and take some time to explore the historic district of Beaufort. We might even head over the nearby Hilton Head for a day.
Stop 2: Miami, Florida

Overview
All of our kids and grandkids (along with some friends) will be with us in Miami for 5 days of wedding events. Instead of holding the annual “Fam-Fest” event at our house this year, we have rented a house for the family near the wedding location and are declaring this the “Fam-Fest Florida Wedding Edition”. (We do plan a future post on our annual Family Festival (Fam-Fest) tradition. It is normally the 2nd weekend in August – but we’ll be in Alaska this year in August.)
Stop 3: Key West, Florida

Overview
After 5 intense wedding days, we are just going to relax in Key West for a couple days. If we feel up to it, we may venture out on the water and head over to the Dry Tortugas National Park.
Stop 4: Daytona Beach, Florida

Daytona Beach
Overview
Nancy and I like breaking long trips up into drivable segments that are not too extended. The total drive from Key West to home is about 21 hours, so we are splitting the drive home into 3 segments about 7 hours each. Our first overnight stop is Daytona Beach and then we can relax a little bit before completing the next 2 segments back to Virginia. (We are driving from home to Miami in just 2 segments, but the extra 3 hours from Miami to Key West – well, we don’t want to tire ourselves out before “the big drive” to Bellingham.
Stop 5: Charlotte, North Carolina

Charlotte, NC
Overview
We have ventured many times down to Florida in my life and Charlotte is a pretty good stop over transitioning either to or from Florida. This is just an overnight stopping point.
Stop 6: Home Base in Round Hill, Virginia

Sunny Ridge – Our home in the Blue Ridge Mountains
Overview
Before we head out off to Alaska, we need to return home for a quick stop. We are taking our other vehicle to/from Key West so the The “Brown Beast” can be sitting at home packed and ready go. We have a few last minute packing to do as well as house management tasks – then we will switch vehicles and hit the road for 5-6 months.
Section 2 – The cross-country trip to Bellingham Washington and the ferry up to Haines Alaska
This section covers the trip from our home in Round Hill, Virginia through to departing on the Alaska Ferry in Haines, Alaska.

Round Hill, VA to Haines, AK
Stop 1: Dayton, Ohio

Overview
The first stop is nothing special and we have passed through Dayton many times on our travels. It’s at a good stopping point for our first day out on the road and we want to press on and be able to spend a little bit on time at our second stop.
Stop 2: St. Charles, Missouri

St Charles MO
Overview
We will be staying in the St. Charles National Historic District right along the Missouri River. It was the site of the first European settlement of the river. It was also the place where Lewis and Clarke embarked on the journey west while exploring the Missouri River and the Louisiana Purchase. Lots of old buildings, shops and restaurants to keep us occupied for a late afternoon and evening.
Stop 3: Sioux City, Iowa

Overview
This is just a one night stop over for us as we continue our journey westward. Sioux City does have some items that are of interest to us such as the Sioux City Lewis and Clarke Interpretive Center and the Sioux City Railroad Museum . We will check them out if time permits.
Stop 4: Deadwood, South Dakota
Overview
We have been to the Black Hills area before and did spend an afternoon in the old wild west town of Deadwood. It’s a fun little anchor point for a few days and while we are here, we are going to venture over to the Wind Caves National Park which we missed when we were last here.
Stop 6: Williston, North Dakota

Fort Union Trading Post
Overview
Fort Union was one large trading post on the upper Missouri River and it just happens to be located near Williston, North Dakota making this a great stop overnight stop over for us.
Stop 7: Great Falls, Montana

Overview
We did a lot of touring in this part of Montana back in 2019 and this stopover in Great Falls will just be over night before we continue on.
Stop 8: Coeur d’Alene, Idaho

Coeur d’Alene ID
Overview
This is a beautiful little town located on the north shore of Lake Coeur d’Alene . We passed through this town a few years ago when we were headed to Glacier National Park and the Canadian Rockies. We only stopped for lunch last time, but we said “we need to find a reason to come here and stay longer some day”. We will stay here for 2 nights to get a slight break from all those marathon drives. Nancy found a pretty nice place at the Greenbriar Inn that we’ll be staying in.
Stop 9: Lake Chelan, Washington

Campbell’s Resort
Lake Chelan, Washington
Overview
On a earlier trip through Washington State, we passed by the Lake Chelan region and made a note that we wanted to come back someday and spend a little bit of time in this area. A “short” drive from Coeur d’Alene AND a “short” drive the next day to Bellingham means we’ll have a decent amount of time here even though we are only here for one night.
Stop 10: Bellingham/Fairhaven, Washington
Overview
We have rented a small apartment in the historic district of Fairhaven in Bellingham. When we vacationed here back in 2005, we liked this area and have decided to hang out here for a few days as we wait to board the ferry North. We are going to go hiking one day while we are here up in the Northern Cascades National Park with a long time of ours who lives in the area. When we last visited this park, we thought it one of the more beautiful national parks.
Stop 11: Alaska Ferry to Ketchikan, Alaska

Alaska Ferry
Overview
The trip from Bellingham to Ketchikan is about 38 hours and we have secured a cabin on the ferry, so we have a place to sleep and store some of our things we want access to while on the trip. The ferry is pretty ‘bare-bones’. Some people sleep on the lounge chairs under the heated deck roof. Some people duct tape a tent to the boat deck and sleep there. There’s no cell phone service or internet on this ride, but there is a snack bar restaurant and PLENTY of scenery.
Stop 11: Ketchikan, Alaska

Ketchikan Alaska
Overview
We only have a 4 hour stop in Ketchikan for the ferry to drop off and pick up passengers. We are allowed to depart and plan on getting a little bit of walking in and catch lunch before re-boarding and continuing on to Juneau.
Stop 12: Alaska Ferry to Juneau, Alaska

Overview
To reach Juneau from Ketchikan by ferry is 17 hours and we are scheduled to arrive early the next morning after departing Ketchikan.
Stop 13: Juneau, Alaska

Juneau
Overview
When we originally booked the ferry into Juneau, we had 5 days planned to spend in this area. When we were forced to reschedule to a ferry to Haines this had to be cut down to 3 full days. At the moment we need to go back and reprioritize how we want to spend our time in this area.
Itinerary Options
Stop 14: Alaska Ferry to Haines, Alaska
Overview
This ferry ride is under 4 hours. While in Haines for several days, we want to do a one of the scenic railroad trips as a top priority and then pick from a list of other potential items we have identified so far. And, we’ll need to take time to get that Covid test for the next leg through Canada back into Alaska.
Itinerary Options
Section 3 -The summer in Alaska and the Return to Bellingham, Washington
We intend to travel on all of the major paved and gravel highways that you can find in the various guidebooks on Alaska. In particular, the book called “The Milepost” (updated every year) provided us with a great deal of what to expect for road conditions and services. After some thought, we worked out a travel plan to fulfill this objective within the 3 months we are in Alaska. This section covers the stop by stop plan we have put into place and includes our booking in the fall back to Bellingham Washington on the Alaska Ferry,
Stop 1: Tok, Alaska

A Hyde Away Inn
Overview
We need a stopover after crossing the border in the Yukon (Canada) from Haines, Alaska and Nancy found this little B&B in the Tok area of Alaska.
Stop 2: Eagle, Alaska

Falcon Inn
Overview
We wanted to travel the Taylor highway up through Chicken, Alaska with a faint hope that we might be able to get back across the border In Canada and do the Top of the World Highway in the Yukon. It won’t be possible if they are still requiring a negative Covid test since there is nowhere to get one in either Tok or Eagle. We decided to use the off the beaten path village of Eagle on the Yukon River as a stopping point. Nancy found a nice little Falcon Inn B&B right on the river with a deck overlooking the river.
Stop 3: Tok, Alaska

Caribou Cabins
Overview
A little “deja-vu” to stop again in Tok, but there just aren’t many roads in Alaska, not to mention lodging options. We decided to stay Caribou Cabins on this stay just to change things up a bit. It is another one-night stop on our way back from Eagle on our journey to Fairbanks.
Stop 4: Fairbanks, Alaska

Overview
We have rented a house on the Chena River in Fairbanks and will use this as an anchor to explore this part of Alaska. We will be here for 3 weeks, and it looks like one of our children will fly up for a week to share it with us.
Itinerary – events we are committed to
- We have booked a 3-day drive and fly back on a bush plane from the Artic Ocean. This includes some rafting on the Koyukuk River
- We have tickets on the summer solstice to the Midnight Sun Baseball game that starts at 10PM and is played without lights
- The Summer Solstice Festival
- July 4th celebrations
Itinerary – other Options
- Explore Gold Dredge Number 8
- Gold Panning
- Yukon River Cruise
- Kayaking / Rafting on the Yukon
- Guided Fishing Trip
- Travel to Chena Hot Springs
- Travel to Circle Alaska
- Travel to Manley Hot Springs
- Visit University of Alaska’s Museum of the North
- Alaska Railroad to Anchorage and Back
- Dog Sledding Experience
Stop 5: Coldfoot, Alaska
Overview
Coldfoot is the only stop over on the way to the artic and we will be staying here over night. Very basic accommodations but we have arranged for a float trip down the Koyukuk while we are here.
Stop 6: Deadhorse, Alaska

Overview
We are staying one night here at the work camp. One can only access the Artic Ocean on a guided tour and this has all been arranged as part of the drive and fly tour package. Our return from Deadhorse is by small bush plane so we will get to see from the air what we just spent two days journeying north on the Dalton Highway.
Stop 7: Healy, Alaska

Best Western Pioneer
Overview
The big attraction in this part of Alaska is Denali National Park. We plan on getting tickets to the all day backcountry road you can only get to by bus and then consider some additional options. We’ve learned there was a rock slide that cuts off half of the normal tour route that leaves that section of the park inaccessible in 2022. We are staying at the Aurora Denali Lodge for this 4 day stop.
Itinerary – Options
| Denali Bus Tour – Tundra Wilderness Tour |
| Denali Bus Tour – Natural History Tour |
| Denali Peak Experience Flight |
| Denali Highway Jeep Excursion |
| Denali ATV Adventures – 2.5 hours departs 3x/day |
| Denali ATV Adventures – 3.5 hours departs 10am |
| Rent an ATV |
| Denali Backcountry Safari |
| Black Diamond Treasure Hunt Excursion with Back Country Dining |
| Alaskan Back Country Side by Side ATV Adventure with Meal |
| Denali Park Zipline Adventure |
Stop 8: Cantwell, Alaska and the Denali Highway

Clearwater Mountain Lodge to Alpine Creek Lodge Views
Overview
Denali Highway was opened in 1957 to provide access to Denali National Park and runs 135 miles from Cantwell to Paxson, Alaska. Only the first 21 miles are paved but it runs above the tree line and has sweeping vista views that go on for miles. We are going to be staying at the Alpine Creek Lodge for a few nights providing opportunities for touring if decide to not just do it on our own.
Itinerary – other Options
| Alpine Creek Lodge – Jeep Tours |
| Alpine Creek Lodge – Fishing & Gold Panning (Windy Creek Combo) |
Stop 9: Gakona, Alaska

Overview
This lodge in Gakona has been in business since 1904 and is the oldest continuing operating roadhouse in Alaska. We are going to use it for a few days to explore parts of the Richardson Highway and other things in this area.
Stop 10: Kennicott, Alaska

Overview
Located in Wrangell St Elias National Park the Kennicott Glacier Lodge provides easy access to the National Historic Landmark of the Kennicott Copper Mine and hiking opportunities. This is our next stop for a few days.
Stop 11: Valdez, Alaska

Overview
This coastal town is located deep in the heart of Prince William Sound and is surrounded by some of the world’s tallest coastal mountains. For some context, it is 305 miles from Anchorage and 364 miles from Fairbanks.
Itinerary – Things we plan on doing
- Columbia Glacier
- Meares Glacier
- Keystone Canyon
- There are a number of Hiking trails in the area
- Overlook Trail
- Dock Point Trail
- Creek A Trail
- Mineral Creek B Trail
- John Hunter Memorial Trail
- Shoup Bay A Trail
- Shoup Bay B Trail
- Keystone Canyon Pack Trail
- Goat Trail
- Wagon Road Trail
Itinerary Other Options
| Solomon Gulch Hatchery tours |
| Valdez Museum, Maxine & Jesse Whitney Museum |
| Keystone Canyon |
| Meares Glacier Cruise Excursion from Valdez |
| Columbia Glacier Cruise from Valdez |
| Columbia Glacier Sea Kayak Day Tour |
| Shoup Glacier Kayak |
| Glacier & Wildlife Cruise (Columbia) |
| SEVERAL GUIDED KAYAK TRIPS (3.4 to 10 hours) |
Stop 12: Copper Center, Alaska

Overview
This is just a stopover on our way to Wasilla, but it looks like a fun little B&B.
Stop 13: Wasilla, Alaska

Overview
Wasilla is located in the Mat-Su valley of Alaska where record size vegetables are grown and shown at the Alaska State Fair. We will spend a week in Wasilla.
Itinerary – Things we plan on doing
- Explore the Mat-Su Valley
- Travel the Scenic Hatcher Pass Road to Independence Mine State Historical Park
Itinerary Other Options
| Denali Gold Tours |
| Talkeetna River Natural History Float Trip |
| Chilitna River Float: Rafting the south side of Denali |
Stop 14: Homer, Alaska

Overview
Homer is at the end of the Sterling Highway on the Kenai Peninsula about 200 miles south of Anchorage. It is surrounded by wilderness and ocean and has lots of opportunity from adventure. We will stay in Homer for a week.
Itinerary Options
| Premiere Alaskan Bear Viewing |
| Kachemak Bay, Kenai Fjords, Harding Icefield & Glaciers |
| Kachemak Bay, Kenai Fjords, Harding Icefield & Glaciers |
| Day Trip to Seldovia |
| Tour Cook Inlet’s Ring of Fire! |
Stop 15: Seward, Alaska

Overview
A lot of the Kenai Fords day cruises run out of this little town. We will be here to do this and a mixture of other outdoor activities. We will stay in Seward for just over a week.
Itinerary Options
Stop 16: Girdwood, Alaska

Overview
Girdwood is a small mountain resort town about 35 miles outside of Anchorage. We intend to use this as a anchor point for about 2 weeks for lots of adventuring in this area, Anchorage and the northern section of the Kenai Peninsula. While we are here will travel up to the Alaska State Fair.
Itinerary Options
| Kenai Riverside Fishing |
| Half Day Fishing Package Salmon and Trout |
| Half Day (4-hr) Kenair River Fishing |
| Upper Kenai – Half Day |
| Portage Glacier Cruises |
Stop 17: Kodiak, Alaska

Overview
We are taking the ferry over to Kodiak Island for a few days to explore and see Kodiak Bears. It’s second largest island in the United States, with about 87 miles of road. It’s an overnight ferry ride from Homer to Kodiak and will be taking the Brown Beast with us so we can explore the island. In addition, we will probably sign up for a bear tour and/or head out on the water to fish or whale watch.
Stop 18: Whittier, Alaska

Overview
Our ferry back to the mainland departs from this little port town late and we only plan to stay here one night to depart. However, given how close we will be when we are in Girdwood, we will probably come over here to explore and perhaps do a tour or two.
Itinerary Options
Stop 19: Alaska Ferry Back to Bellingham, Washington

Southeast Alaska by Gillfoto
Overview
Our return trip is 5 days long with only a short port calls in Yakutat, Juneau and Ketchikan. It will give us chance to just chill and relax before setting off on the final leg of this journey.
Section 4 – Down the Pacific Coast Highway and Back Across the USA to Virginia

Bellingham To Home
Overview
For the last leg of the trip, we decided to set out with a set of objectives and then free style our way home depending on the weather and our mood. This is unlike the way we have usually travel but since we aren’t on a time schedule, we will build a rolling schedule out about a week in advance. All we know now is that we plan to move down and enjoy the Pacific Coast and then begin our journey eastward towards Virginia.
Objective 1 – Adventure Down the Pacific Coast Highway from Bellingham, Washington to San Diego, California

Overview
We have driven significant sections of the Pacific Highway in Washington, Oregon and California before, but there are still big sections we haven’t travelled on. We really want to do a top to bottom adventure starting from when we get off the ferry in Bellingham. We have a list of potential places (from prior journey’s) we may stop at.
Objective 2 – Revisit Olympic National Park

Overview
We were here back in 2005 but it was raining too much for us to get out and really do anything at all. Hopefully the weather will be better this time around. And if it IS raining – we have time to wait it out.
Objective 3 – Visit Lassen Volcanic National Park

Overview
We haven’t been to this part of California before and while we are in the area we want to veer off the coast and go visit this park.
Objective 4 – Visit Redwood National Park

Overview
Another National Park along the way that we want to stop and explore.
Objective 5 – Channel Islands National Park

Overview
The only way over to this national park is booking with a company. We will have to work our schedule around dates for this if we want to explore this area.
Objective 6 – Visit Joshua Tree National Park

Mojave National Preserve
Overview
We will catch this park after we exit Joshua Tree on our way towards Page Arizona.
Objective 7 – Visit Pinnacles National Park

Overview
Pinnacles is one of the newer National Parks and we need to see if this will work into our schedule.
Objective 8 – Go back and spend more time in the Vermilion Cliffs/Page, Arizona Area

Cottonwood Canyon
Overview
We were here back in the fall of 2021 and really loved this area of the country. We thought we could spend another week here and not get bored. The plan is to pass through this area and depending on timing/weather, we can decide how long we want to stay.
Objective 9 – Revisit the Monument Valley Area

Valley of the Gods
Overview
The Monument Valley area is home to where many a major motion picture has been filmed. I took this photo at the spot of one of the famous scenes in the Forest Gump movie. If you have ever watched a John Ford Western, this is also the area where a lot filming occurred. There is lots of back country adventuring you can do in this general area, and it will be nice to do a little more exploring. We last visited this area in 2010 and want to go back and explore it some more on our way east.
Objective 10 – Free style the rest of the way home

Overview
We keep a map marked with all our road trips. This year’s upcoming trip is marked in RED. A part of what we are always trying to do is to go to places we haven’t been before, so the trip out and back is a little bit about filling in the blanks. There is some cross over here and there with this trip, but we are going get a bit of North Dakota, and Montana on the way out and parts of California and of the great plains on the way back.
We spent a great deal of time in 2021, crossing Texas and taking a southern route home from the Rockies. This time we want to pass through the middle of the country and the great plains is an area we haven’t been to before. We will use some of our prior research and some new research so we can experience this area and play it by ear when the time comes.
Summary
This trip has been years in the planning stage, and we are getting really close to launching. To say that we are excited is a huge understatement!
For those of you who have been to Alaska, we would love to hear about your favorite or must do items. Our plans have a lot of flexibility built in and we can adjust if we find some very interesting things to do that, we haven’t dug up yet.
This is our incredible journey for the 2022 travel season we will be blogging on over the coming months starting. Stay tuned.
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Wow, this trip is gonna be incredible!!! Have you set up your tiktok yet to cover the stops?!? 🙂
Amazing. Amazing. Amazing trip folks. If you have prime watch the Calamity Jane documentary. Maybe stop out at the cemetery and she her and Wild Bill there in Deadwood. They are buried next to each other. Can wait for all of the posts. I was in Alaska in January and also June. Definitely like summer in Alaska better! Great job planning!