Overview
This is the third part of 42-day, 9,700-mile road trip from Virginia to Vancouver Island and back, blending epic scenery, old friends, quirky roadside attractions, and the quiet joy of the open road. This road trip came about from our goal of visiting 65 friends this year. We first put a map together to mark where everyone was located and then built a road trip to try and get as many as we could during this adventure. We had done a similar trip in the spring down the east coast to Florida and with the conclusion of this trip we hit 61! This was an “A+” road trip with so many great memories created.
Prior legs of the trip can be found here:
Part 1 can be found here: A North America Road Trip: Part 1 – The Trans-Canada Odyssey
Part 2 can be found here: A North America Road Trip: Part 2 – The Canadian Western Provinces
Continue here:
Part 4 can be found here: A North America Road Trip: Part 4 – Cody Wyoming to Home
.
Day 24: Washington Eastward – Re-tracing Steps and Finding New Places
Morning: Biscuits, Gravy & a Misty Mountain Drive
We started the day in Port Angeles with a short walk after breakfast—though calling it “just breakfast” doesn’t do it justice. Biscuits and sausage gravy hit the spot and set the tone for a cozy, satisfying morning. After stretching our legs, we packed up and hit the road toward Olympic National Park, aiming for Hurricane Ridge. We did a Washington State road trip back in 2005 – yikes, that’s 20 years ago! The weather that year hadn’t cooperated, so we definitely want to head there and try again.
The drive up was moody and dramatic—rainy with a hint of snow. Not quite a winter wonderland, but enough to make the landscape feel wild and cinematic. Despite the weather (somewhat better than in 2005), we managed to grab a few decent photos between the mist and drizzle before heading back down the ridge.
Scenic Highway 101 from Port Angeles to Tacoma
This time of year, some of the ferries have shut down for the season – so we had a longer drive than it would have been just 2 weeks earlier. Since we weren’t able to cross Puget Sound north of Seattle, we had to drive south and around Puget Sound and go through Tacoma. While we could have taken a shorter route, Highway 3, we followed the more scenic Highway 101 south, winding past lakes and along the Hood Canal. The views were classic Pacific Northwest—lush, misty, and full of character.
Eventually, we reached Tacoma and merged onto I-5 north, where the real adventure began: traffic! It was absolute gridlock through Tacoma but thankfully the northbound lane is heavy & slow but manageable. We pity the folks traveling southbound from Seattle to Tacoma because the backup stretched over 7 miles!
Tacoma and the Long Road to Leavenworth
Once we escaped the madness and transitioned to 405 and then 522, the drive finally mellowed out. We cruised through fog and light rain as we made our way toward Leavenworth. We stopped for a picnic lunch across the street from a bar that is literally called “The Dive Bar”. We snacked on a leftover slice of pizza from three days ago—still spicy with jalapeños and surprisingly satisfying.
Arrival in Leavenworth & Oktoberfest Tease
Back in 2005, we passed through the charming town of Leavenworth and made a note to return one day. Today is that day. By around 2:00pm, we rolled into Leavenworth and checked into the Obertal Inn. After settling in, we took a short walk around town and learned that a month-long Oktoberfest will kick off tomorrow. As tempting as it sounds, we’re kind of relieved we won’t be here for it—it’d be way too hard to leave with all that fun swirling around.
We wandered the town, snapped some photos, picked up a bar shot glass (tradition!), and soaked in the Bavarian charm.
Duck & Drakes, Baseball & Barroom Camaraderie
Later, we headed to the Duck and Drakes to unwind. Baseball was on—the place was packed with sports fans—but unfortunately, the Red Sox lost to the Yankees in a late-game heartbreaker. Game 3’s tomorrow, so we’ll see what happens. Our night at the bar was a blast. We met two different couples and enjoyed the tense moments of baseball while enjoying lively conversation. Live music kicked in—Nancy said the guy’s name was Chris Ward (and he was very talented) —and we ended up staying until about 9:30pm. Just good vibes all around.
Day 25: Beautiful scenery and Another Blast From the Past – A Beautiful Transition
Morning in Leavenworth: River Walks & Room Heat
We woke up around 6:00am and jumped in the shower to shake off the sleep. Nancy mentioned the room had hit 76 degrees overnight—so warm she had to get up in the middle of the night to cool it down. After that, Harrison headed out for a peaceful walk along the river trail in Leavenworth, weaving through the village and enjoying the quiet charm of the morning. Breakfast didn’t begin until 8:00am, so Harrison wandered a bit until it was time to eat and hit the road.
Breakfast & Firefighters: A Small-Town Scene
At 8:00am sharp, we picked up our breakfast order from the hotel’s “breakfast area”—which turned out to be a delightful surprise. A woman came out with fresh, homemade biscuits and gravy. We grabbed our coffee, picked up the food, and brought it back to the room to eat.
While packing up, Nancy discovered the fridge hadn’t been working overnight. Luckily, nothing critical inside—just some cheese and beef jerky, which seemed fine, but no cold beverages for the road. Before leaving town, we swung by Safeway and saw a dozen or so firefighters stocking up for the day. One guy even grabbed a case of beer—whatever kind of firefighting that is, it must be intense. We learned there were two rather large wildfires in the area, even causing some road closures we’ll have to work around. Tankers and big rigs were lined up, all headed out to battle the nearby fires.
On the Road: Smoke, Apples & Desert Skies
As we drove east, we hit patches of smoke on the highway—remnants of the fire activity. Eventually, the air cleared as we left the mountains and entered the arid backside of Washington. The landscape shifted dramatically into desert terrain, dotted with apple orchards that rely heavily on irrigation.
We are headed to Joseph, Oregon today, a place we first visited on a 2013 Oregon road trip. We visited it again back in 2019, when on a mostly Idaho road trip, we found a gorgeous scenic drive not yet identified on maps. We’ll do that route again tomorrow, but for today, we opted for a slightly longer route to Joseph. We meandered through Pendleton and stopping briefly at a Taco Bell near Walla Walla for lunch. We passed Walla Walla University, a Seventh-day Adventist school, and cruised through a tiny slice of its campus before heading out of town. The drive was scenic, if not particularly remarkable—just wonderful wide-open spaces and dry hills.
Arrival in Joseph: Clouds, Curiosities & Comfort Food
The rain let up as we approached Joseph, leaving behind a soft overcast sky—perfect for moody, cloudy photos. We pulled into the Mount Joseph Lodge, a beautiful log-style retreat that felt just right for the setting.
After a short walk around town, Nancy spotted a shop with a quirky leaf design on the building and insisted we check it out. Whatever they were selling, she found something worth buying, and we headed back to the lodge to regroup.
Evening at Embers: Pizza, Beer & a Bittersweet Memory
Dinner took us to Embers Brewhouse—our favorite Oregon bar, apparently. We snagged two seats at the tiny four-seat bar, where two women were tending drinks. One was a blonde named Jesse, probably around 40, and the other was a brunette with striking dark eyebrows and hair—never caught her name.
Just a few minutes in, Nancy asked about Jerry Cornet, a guy we met back in 2013, that we shared several hours of conversation and laughter with. We had taken a picture of the 3 of us back then, pledging to send him a copy by mailing it to the bar (he was quite the regular there). When we revisited again 2019, we missed him by 10 minutes! Today, we learned Jerry passed away about four years ago during the pandemic. That hit a little harder than expected—definitely not the reunion we’d imagined.
We ordered a Corner of the Work pizza with jalapeños—deep dish style, only a 12-inch but very hearty. This place really serves up some of the best pizza and we’ve validated that now 3 times! We each had a couple slices and boxed up the rest for tomorrow’s lunch. Baseball played in the background as we wrapped up the evening and headed back to the lodge for a quiet night.
Day 26: A Long Driving Day – Quirky Art, Tame Wildlife and Gorgeous Views
Morning in Joseph: Coffee, Biscuits & Deer Encounters
Woke up just after daybreak—soft light spilling over the hills—and got dressed before heading out to grab the area maps & tour books from the car. We sat down with some microwave-warmed Jimmy Dean breakfast biscuits we’d picked up yesterday, sipping coffee and chatting about tomorrow’s plans in Missoula, Montana. It was a quiet, thoughtful start to the day.
After breakfast, Harrison took a walk through Joseph taking picture of all of the street art. This little town is a gem—full of quirky, artsy shops and statues tucked into corners. It’s got that “artsy fartsy” charm, but in the best way. Harrison wandered for about an hour, soaking in the scenery and small-town character.
One of the more amusing sights was a massive Class A RV parked at the filling station. It had a huge tow-behind trailer and needed a hose extension just to reach the diesel pump. Nancy missed that part, but it was a bit of roadside theater.
Friendly Wildlife
The most memorable moment of the morning involved and encounter with deer. Joseph’s deer are practically locals—docile and unbothered by humans. Harrison ran into two big ones with enormous racks who refused to move out of his way. He trailed them through the streets before finally getting around a few. Later, as he was packing up the car, one was standing right between the lodge’s deck steps and the parking lot. Harrison got a cool video of one that wouldn’t budge, so he had to completely go another route to get to the car. Those antlers looked like they meant business.
Packing Up & Full-Service Nostalgia
Back at the room, Nancy spent some time on the phone with her mom while I finished packing. Once she wrapped up, we loaded the car and headed to the gas station. To my surprise, it was full-service. Scott, the attendant, pumped the gas for us. I haven’t had someone do that in years. It was a throwback moment and oddly refreshing.
Scenic Drive: Oregon Route 3 to Idaho Route 12
It was time for that amazing scenic drive we found back in 2019 – and now it is designated as such on the map. We headed north on Oregon Route 3, which turns into Washington 129 before ending in Lewiston. This stretch of road is an underappreciated scenic drive, and we made sure to stop at the Chief Joseph Overlook for photos. The views were stunning—rolling hills, winding rivers, and that quiet grandeur you only find in the Pacific Northwest.
Lewiston to Missoula
From there, we picked up Idaho Route 12 westbound toward Missoula.
We’ve traveled this route before and wanted to experience it again. Route 12 has its own beauty, especially the portion tracing the original Lewis and Clark Trail from their early 1800s voyage of discovery. It’s humbling to drive through history like that. Along the way we pass the Dog Park Inn which has a collection of rooms that are built to look like a big dog from the outside. Roadside America at its finest! We get hungry later in the after and spot a little park in Grangeville Idaho where we stop to nibble on some of the pizza we got last night. After a long push we arrive in Missoula and find our lodging for the next couple days.
Evening in Missoula: Riverfront Views & Sports Bar Vibes
We reached Missoula in the evening and checked into Goldsmith’s Riverfront Inn—a cozy spot right on the water. Today, it consists of 6 apartments, but it has quite a history. It was originally built for the President of the university but was later converted into a fraternity house. In 1988, the university had plans to demolish it, but community outcry to preserve it led the Goldsmith’s to purchase it and move it. The 4000 square foot house was cut in two and slowly transferred from the southern edge of campus to the northern banks of the Clark Fork River. Bonus – it was remarkably affordable!
After settling in, we walked across the street to The Press Box, a local sports bar, for dinner. It was the perfect way to wind down after a long day of scenic driving, wildlife encounters, and historical reflection. The food was fantastic, and the plethora of TV’s meant we could continue watching MLB playoff games.
Day 27: Taking a Day Off — Just Hanging Around in Missoula
When you travel for an extended period of time, you need to take a day off once in a while. Today is one of those days. We take the day to do the same type of thing we would do if we were home and not on the road.
A Missoula Meander & Football-Fueled Bar Hop
We woke up in Missoula, Montana, to a crisp fall morning—perfect for exploring. We both made a quick walk to McDonald’s to grab some breakfast biscuits—fuel for the day ahead. As usual, Harrison then left for one of his signature solo walks. He crossed the pedestrian bridge over the river and wandered through the University of Montana campus, soaking in the quiet energy of a college town waking up on a Saturday. From there, he made his way into downtown Missoula, scouting out a good spot for us to watch college football later in the day. He sent Nancy a few photos along the way, then headed back to the room.
Bar Hopping Begins: Red’s Lounge & a Greek Wedding
Once Harrison returned, we headed out together to explore downtown. Missoula has that classic small college town vibe—plenty of character, walkable streets, and a handful of inviting little bars. Our first stop was Red’s Lounge. On the way, we peeked into Union Hall but quickly decided it wasn’t our scene. We ordered a pitcher of beer and settled in at the bar, only to find out they didn’t serve food. That definitely shifts our plans—no worries—we decided to embrace the bar-hopping spirit. While watching the early games, we struck up a conversation with a guy at the bar who was planning his wedding in Greece. He hadn’t picked which island yet, so we chatted about Greek island destinations for a bit. Both he and the bartender recommended we head to the MO Club (short for Missoula Club) for “the best burger in Missoula” and more football. Red’s Lounge is the kind of place that doesn’t have an internet presence, and it doesn’t need it. It is just a simple, small college “dive bar” that we’re sure has plenty of stories to tell.
The MO Club: Burgers, Beers & Budgeting
The MO Club turned out to be another tiny, no-frills spot with a lot of charm. We snagged a couple of bar seats and watched the cook work the small grill right behind the counter—think Waffle House vibes, but with burgers only. We debated ordering food but decided to stick with just one beer each, especially after realizing it was a cash-only joint. Between us, we probably didn’t have enough cash for two burgers and drinks. We paid our $7 tab and “hopped” on to the next place.
Back to the Press Box: Burgers, Rain & Familiar Faces
We passed a few more bars on the way back, but with the sky threatening rain, we opted to return to the Press Box—our reliable go-to from the night before and conveniently close to our room. Dinner was solid: Harrison had a classic burger, and Nancy went for the Montana Smashburger. We watched more football (unfortunately, not the best outcomes for our teams) and chatted with a guy at the bar who turned out to be an airline pilot. He knew the Dulles airport and our home area well, which made for some fun conversation.
Eventually, we made our way back to the room, flipped on the TV, and drifted off after a full day of walking, talking, and tasting our way through Missoula.
Day 28: Short Transition – Football, Bears & a Drizzly Drive to Yellowstone
Sunday was all about getting from one place to another and then the gridiron. We checked out of our cozy spot in Missoula and made our first stop at McDonald’s for breakfast. Well, sort of. The parking lot was packed, so we detoured to fill up the gas tank first. Once we looped back and snagged a spot, we grabbed our sausage biscuits with egg and cheese and coffee—classic road fuel.
The drive itself was only 4 hours and mostly uneventful. Overcast skies and light drizzle followed us for stretches, adding a moody backdrop to the Montana landscape. We rolled into our destination early around 1:30pm, but the hotel check-in was a bust—no one at the front desk. Rightfully, check-in was 4:00pm but we were still surprised that a hotel this size had an empty front desk.
Rusty Rail Lounge: Football, Elk Chili & New Friends
With no room access, we crossed the street to the Rusty Rail Lounge to catch some NFL football. The lounge is connected to the larger Yellowstone Mine Restaurant (which wasn’t open yet). There weren’t any seats at the bar, so we grabbed a table and settled in just in time to watch the Philadelphia Eagles lose. It doesn’t matter who they played—what matters to us is they lost. Our bartender Brian was rocking a Commanders shirt, which added a little flair to the scene.
We shared a bowl of elk chili that was absolutely delicious—rich, hearty, and perfect for a chilly afternoon. Eventually, two seats opened up at the bar just as the Commanders game kicked off. We asked Jim and Karen, a friendly couple and die-hard Detroit Lions fans, to slide over so we could sit together. They were locked into the Lions vs. Bengals game and left happy with the outcome.
Meanwhile, we watched the Commanders put away the Chargers in a strong finish. Both teams now sit at 3–2. Along the way, we also tried a Montana cheesesteak—pretty solid bar fare.
Bears in Trees & a Mountain View Room
While we were watching the games, word spread there three bears eating berries in a tree just outside the restaurant. Nancy dashed out mid-2nd quarter and managed to snap a bunch of photos. By the time Harrison went out at half-time, they’d already climbed down and disappeared—but it was a fun little wildlife surprise.
After the games, we headed back to the hotel and finally got checked in at the Yellowstone Big Rock Inn. Our second-floor room came with a beautiful picture window overlooking the mountains—a peaceful end to a busy day.
Evening Wind-Down
The rest of the evening was low-key. We watched a little more football, flipped through some TV, and eventually drifted off to sleep. A full day of driving, sports, good food, and unexpected bear sightings—Montana never disappoints.
Day 29: Yellowstone Detours, Wildlife Surprises & Sports Bar Comfort
When we laid out this trip, we hadn’t expected to spend much time in Yellowstone as Nancy, and I have been here multiple times. Our true goal was to use it to get to the southern entrance of the Beartooth highway which is considered one of the world’s best scenic highways. We drove this on a 2006 road trip in the opposite direction, and it was great. It typically is only open for a few months out of the year from June to October as they close it as soon as the first snows fall. We were gambling we could beat mother nature but unfortunately it snowed the day before we got here, and it was closed. So, we decided to make the best of it and spent the morning and afternoon in Yellowstone before moving on to Cody Wyoming.
We kicked off the morning with a microwave breakfast in our room—Jimmy Dean biscuits with sausage, egg and cheese. Unfortunately, we had no paper towels, so we wrapped them in a washcloth. Big mistake. The melted cheese turned it into a gooey mess. Not our finest culinary moment.
After packing up, we hit the road south toward the North Entrance of Yellowstone—a small area of Yellowstone that Harrison had never visited. We tried to use our senior passes, but due to the government shutdown, they weren’t accepting them. Still, they handed us a map and waved us through. Not entirely sure how that worked, but we were in.
Mammoth & Norris: Geysers, Boardwalks & Basin Loops
Our first stop was Mammoth Hot Springs. We parked by the Visitor Center which was actually open despite the government shutdown. It was a long walk to the terrace levels, but it was rewarding to see how the lower levels had changed over the years. The upper boardwalk trail was steep and wooden—Nancy opted out to move the car closer to the terraces while Harrison climbed up. Sadly, there wasn’t much to see on the upper levels as the springs seemed dried up and underwhelming.
Next, we drove south to Norris Geyser Basin and along the way spotted a buffalo grazing by the road and also saw a number of steam vents. We spotted another lone buffalo that came up and defiantly walked in the middle of the road.
Road Closures & Wildlife Encounters
From Norris, we aimed for Canyon Village and planned to loop north toward Cooke City. But the Grand Loop Road was closed, forcing us to backtrack: Canyon to Norris, Norris to Mammoth, and finally onto Parade Ground Road toward the Northeast Entrance. It takes us about 90 minutes to reach the northeast exit of Yellowstone as we wander through the scenic Lamar valley where we spout a coyote and a herd of buffalo. After passing through Cooke City, it’s not long before we see the sign that says the Beartooth Highway is closed and the turnoff to the Chief Joseph Highway which is open.
Chief Joseph Highway: Scenic Bliss & Photo Stops
We entered the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway under perfect weather—clear skies and mesmerizing views. The 47-mile drive was spectacular, with sweeping vistas and dramatic mountain passes. It crosses the Shoshone National Forest through the Absaroka Mountains to the Clarks Fork Valley. We stopped at a few overlooks, including a stunning bridge viewpoint where we took videos and snapped photos.
Eventually, we rolled into Cody and checked into the Comfort Inn, part of the Buffalo Bill Village complex. The front desk clerk informed us that breakfast would be served in a separate building—an odd setup, but we rolled with it.
Baseball, Football & Bar Food Done Right
When we asked the front desk about dinner options, the clerk gave us a few suggestions, including one that was “a couple of miles away.” We have a strong preference to walk to dinner, but after walking the area checking out other spots near the hotel, we realize none had what we wanted—playoff baseball and Monday Night Football. We decided to give it a shot, so we hopped in the car.
Brewgard’s Lounge turned out to be a fantastic local sports bar. Great prices, friendly vibe, and not only did they have the live games, but they were replaying the Redskins game from the other night. Total win. Nancy had a pork tenderloin sandwich, we shared some wings and cheese curds, and everything hit the spot. After dinner, we headed back to the hotel. Harrison fell asleep quickly, while Nancy stayed up watching a movie or two.
Day 30: Saloon Breakfast, Area History & Bighorn Majesty
We got up around 6:00am—well, Harrison did because he’d fallen asleep so early the night before. Nancy says she didn’t, but she was awake soon after. After showering, Harrison made some coffee, and we eased into the morning. Around 7:40am, we headed down to breakfast at the Buffalo Bill Village Center, which, as it turns out, used to be a saloon. Old-time music played from a player piano, and the place still had that Wild West charm—complete with swinging doors and saloon-style décor.
The lady at the entrance told us we were coming in the “off-season way,” through a side door instead of through the gift shop, now closed for the season. Most of the summer staff had gone home. Breakfast was simple but satisfying: sausages, eggs, bagels with cream cheese, coffee, orange juice, and waffles if you wanted them.
Buffalo Bill Museum: History, Firearms & Raptors
After breakfast, we packed up the cooler and headed to the Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody. This Center is massive with 5 museums and a research library are all under one roof. The Buffalo Bill Museum houses original artifacts from Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, including stagecoaches and memorabilia from both he and Annie Oakley. The Cody Firearms Museum is dedicated entirely to firearms, spanning centuries of history. With over 4000 firearms and 10,000 artifacts on display, it might be one of the largest collections in the world. The Draper Natural History Museum a naturalist wing with mountain wildlife, and a live raptor exhibit—eagles in an open-air atrium, not cages. That’s all we had time for! We spent a couple of hours exploring, surrounded by school kids on field trips and soaking in the rich history.
There’s also The Plains Indians Museum, The Whitney Western Art Museum and the McCracken Research Library.
Bighorn Scenic Byway: Switchbacks, Snow & Solitude
From Cody, we headed east toward the Bighorn Scenic Byway. The views were jaw-dropping, with snow still clinging to the roadside and peaks.
Wildlife & Road Hazards
The road was practically empty—zero traffic as we climbed the winding switchbacks. On the way up, we saw a few grim sights—two freshly dead cows near a cattle guard, likely hit by a semi. Further down the road there was also evidence of a recent accident: a burned-out stretch of highway, charred tires, and signs warning of road damage. We slowed to 20 mph through that section, navigating carefully.
We drove all the way down to Dayton and stopped for gas ($3.45/gallon, about 10 gallons). The little country store across the street was closed, despite a few hopeful visitors trying the door. We looped back into the mountains, and to our surprise, the southern route back was even more stunning than the ascent. Canyon overlooks, streams, and untouched wilderness—five hours of driving through what felt like God’s country.
Lunch in Greybull: Lisa’s Western Cuisine
At the foot of the mountains, we reached the small town of Greybull and scoped out a few lunch options. Internet research doesn’t always convey reality! The Tipsy Cow didn’t look promising—Nancy vetoed it from the curb. But she’d spotted Lisa’s Western Cuisine on the way in, so we turned around and gave it a shot.
It was a cozy, Western-themed spot with adobe touches and a lively crowd. We ordered an appetizer of steak bites with horseradish sauce, which came with fries and salad—basically a full meal. We also got a big bowl appetizer of macaroni and cheese loaded with chicken, jalapeños, broccoli, and topped with onion straws, which came with ham and bean soup. Either one of those menu items would have sufficed, so with tons of leftover food, we boxed them up for dinner.
Evening Wind-Down
We drove the 45 minutes back to Cody, settled into our room, and later reheated the mac and cheese for a late dinner. Nancy stayed up watching a movie or two while Harrison once again drifted off early. The day was filled with incredible scenery, good food, and meaningful moments. The Bighorns were unforgettable—we’ll definitely be back.
.
Summary
This portion of the road trip was just stellar. No meeting up with old friends on this leg, just the two of us and a lot of gorgeous country.
Prior legs of the trip can be found here:
Part 1 can be found here: A North America RoadTrip: Part 1 – The Trans-Canada Odyssey
Part 2 can be found here: A North America Road Trip: Part 2 – The Canadian Western Provinces
Continue here:
Part 4 can be found here: A North America Road Trip: Part 4 – Cody Wyoming to Home
Leave a Reply