A North America Road Trip: Part 4 – Cody Wyoming to Home

We are all up early this morning—Meg and PJ had decided they need to be back in Colorado by 11:00am to meet their son & his family for a Chocolate Festival, so they aim to leave just after 7:00am. Everyone is dressed and moving, and we have a few minutes to chat before they pull out around 7:20am. After they leave, Harrison heads out for a walk through the park with a goal of getting back to the house by 9:15am so we can hit the road. While Harrison is out, Nancy texts him to let him know he’d accidentally taken the car key with him—so she can’t pack up the car. Oops. Harrison hustles back, we quickly get everything organized, and then, under a light drizzle, we set off to find a McDonald’s for breakfast. It is a few miles away, but we also get our morning fuel and are officially on the road.

Gray Skies & Quiet Roads to Hot Springs

The drive up to the Black Hills of South Dakota—specifically Hot Springs—is quiet and uneventful. The skies stay gray, and the scenery is subdued, but it is a peaceful stretch of road. We arrive in Hot Springs around 1:45pm, check into our hotel, The Springs Lodge & Cafe, and get settled into the room.  Hot Springs is in the southern area of this mega-tourist area and is probably the most run-down.  Many people stay in Rapid City, or Keystone or even Deadwood which have been kept up better.  But it does look like Hot Springs is in its early phase of rejuvenation.

Smokehouse Lunch & College Football

Once unpacked, we walk down to a local BBQ joint—the Smokehouse—and are pleasantly surprised. We order a 3-slider entree to sample the smoked pulled chicken, the smoked pulled pork and the smoked pulled brisket.  The food is excellent, hearty and flavorful, just what we need.  We listen to other travelers brag about their casino winnings from the prior evening which eggs on stories from the 2 bartenders about their best winnings ever at other casinos. We linger over lunch while watching a bit of college football, letting the day slow down after so many packed adventures.

Netflix & Deep Sleep

Back at the room, we dive into a Netflix series about the Guinness family—fascinating stuff. We end up watching seven episodes straight, completely absorbed. Eventually, the fatigue from the past week catches up with us, and we both drift into a deep sleep. It is the kind of rest that only comes after days of travel, exploration, and good food.

We are slow getting up this morning—understandable, since we closed down the American Legion the night before. It is nearly 7:00am by the time we make it down for breakfast. Biscuits and gravy again, a comforting start before a long day of driving.

Route 2 Through the Sand Hills: Beauty in Desolation

Our route takes us south through the Sand Hills of Nebraska via Highway 2. The weather is nice, and the drive is quiet—just a few scattered towns along the way, many of which have clearly seen better days. Some downtowns are completely boarded up, but there is a kind of haunting beauty in it all.

We learn that the Sand Hills were formed during the last glacial age, when melting glaciers and winds from the Rockies deposited sand across the region. Now, it’s a vast stretch of rolling, grassy dunes with almost no one around.

We stop for a quick leftover pizza break near a sign marking a town that no longer exists. Apparently, all the buildings have been relocated when the town died out—a strange, quiet echo of history.

One of the more surreal moments came when we see a Nebraska state trooper pulling someone over in the middle of nowhere. No idea where he was stationed or how he got there, but there he is, issuing a ticket in a place that felt like the edge of the map.

Sugar, Secrets & Grand Island Arrival

The rest of the drive is uneventful. We pass the time listening to an audiobook about the sugar industry and its hidden dangers—eye-opening stuff.

We pull into Grand Island about an hour early. Tonja had asked us to arrive around 5:00pm, so we decide to check out the Stuhr Museum. Unfortunately, it is closed—likely due to Columbus Day. We drive around a bit, then fill up at a nearby gas station.  Nancy texts Tonja to alert us to our early arrival.  Luckily, her meeting ended early and she’s already on her way to the house. We joke that we’ll race here there. About ten minutes later, we pull into the driveway just as her husband Kent arrives.  And it turns out she is already in the house, arriving 2 minutes ahead of us.

Pork Chops, Porch Chats & Basement Football

After introductions and off-loading our suitcases in their basement spare room, we indulge in wine and a couple of beers at their basement bar.  Nancy and Tonja have known each other since the late 1980’s, meeting at a Datatel User Conference and sharing several of them over the years.  Tonja mentions they haven’t seen each other in over 30 years since she left her job back in the early 1990’s.  The connection of friendship is obviously strong as names and memories invoke laughter.

After a while we all head upstairs. Tonja snaps green beans while Kent fires up the smoker and grill for pork chops. We chat and relax as dinner comes together. The meal is fantastic: grilled pork chops, green beans, rice, and a salad with strawberries, feta, and cucumber. Simple, fresh, and delicious.

After cleaning up the kitchen, we head downstairs to the basement to watch Monday Night Football. The Commanders lost to the Chicago Bears on a last-second field goal—tough ending.

We have a room in the basement, which gives us a nice sense of privacy. After the game, we all turn in for the night—grateful for the hospitality and the quiet comfort of a home-cooked meal.

We get up a little late this morning—around 6:45am. Harrison gets dressed and heads upstairs, where Tonja greets him with fresh coffee. Kent is already out for an early church meeting, so Harrison chats with Tonja for about 40 minutes. Nancy joins us in the kitchen a bit later, and we microwave a couple of Jimmy Dean croissant sausage, egg and cheese biscuits for breakfast. Tonja leaves for a meeting as Kent returns and we have a quick catch-up with him before pulling up stakes and heading out for the day.

Stuhr Museum: Sugar Beets, Homesteads & Railroad Towns

Our first stop is the Stuhr Museum, which—thankfully—is open despite the misty rain. The very chatty woman at the ticket booth hands us a map and gives us the lay of the land. The first building, surrounded by a moat, focuses on the life and history of the region. Fittingly, given the book we’ve been reading about the sugar industry, there is a substantial exhibit on sugar beet farming—a major part of the area’s past.

Across the street, we explore a rotunda-style building with exhibits on pioneer life, Native American history, and cowboy culture. Then we drive down to the 1895 Homestead display, where they’ve relocated a house and barn that represent early farm life. The museum spans 200–300 acres, with distinct zones for homesteading and agriculture.

Next up is Railroad Town—a recreated Nebraska town from the early 1900’s. The rain has stopped, and workers are busy decorating for a Halloween haunted house event. We wander for about an hour before heading to the final exhibit hall, which houses antique cars and farm machinery.  With the misty rain, Nancy opts out of another farm machinery exhibit, so Harrison explores solo for about 25 minutes.

Rental Car Confusion & Air Command Adventure

While at the museum, we get a call from the rental car agency wondering why we haven’t returned the car. Turns out their system flagged our rental as overdue—even though our agreement runs through October 19. Apparently, their software can’t handle rentals longer than 30 days. We’d already tried to extend it yesterday and ran into the same issue.  Once the woman on the phone looks at our rental agreement and realizes the situation, she apologizes for calling.

Once that is sorted, we hit the road for the Strategic Air Command & Aerospace Museum, just outside Omaha. It is about a 1 hour and 40-minute drive, and we arrive around 2:00pm. Nancy purchases tickets for the planetarium show, so we have time to explore the museum first. The exhibits are fascinating—especially the section on the Hubble Telescope and the history of space exploration.

The planetarium show focuses on the expansion of the universe and how scientists measure it. Afterward, we tour the final wing of the museum, packed with aircraft and space tech. By 4:00pm, they announce it is closing time, and we are among the last to leave.

Old Market Omaha: Brick Streets, Bacon Surprises & Talkative Locals

We drive into downtown Omaha’s Old Market district—about 30 minutes away. Traffic is heavy, rain is light, and the streets are lined with old brick and historic buildings. After checking into the Embassy Suites and dropping off our bags, we head out to explore.

Bar Hopping to Check-Out Several Places

Our first stop is Billy Froggs Grill & Bar for happy hour. A couple of beers and some cheese curds later, we decide to wander and try a few more spots.

Next up: The Twisted Fork Saloon.

There, we discover a menu item called Chicken-Fried Bacon with Gravy. Naturally, we had to try it. It turns out to be thick-cut bacon battered and fried, served with a cold white gravy dip. Surprisingly tasty and not-so-surprisingly decadent.

We strike up a conversation with a guy next to us who is in town on business, and then with a couple named Dean and Nancy. Dean’s mostly retired, and his wife works in the building industry—they own a pool company. We chat for about an hour about travel, work, and life.

Jackson Street Tavern: French Onion Soup & Greta’s Enthusiasm

Our final stop is Jackson Street Tavern, just a couple blocks away. We sit next to a young couple—Greta and her very quiet boyfriend. Greta is full of energy and insists we try the French Onion Soup. “It’s the best I’ve ever had!” she said. So we order it. We ask what else they’re eating and tells us it’s Bruschetta, so we order that too.  FYI – great choices!  Greta chats nonstop while her boyfriend remains silent. We never even hear his voice. But the food is great, and the conversation—well, mostly hers—is lively.

Back to the Room & A Great Night’s Sleep

After finishing up, we walk back to the hotel and settle in for the night. The bed is incredibly comfortable, and we both slept like a rock. A full day of museums, meals, and memorable encounters—Omaha delivered.

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Day 38: Rainy Start, Roadside Encounters & a Warm Night in St. Charles

We get up a little late this morning—around 6:45am—and Harrison briefly considers going for a walk. But the weather report calls for rain, so we piddle around the room instead. Harrison takes a shower, and by the time we we’re both situated, we head down for breakfast.

Somehow, we manage to clog the toilet, so we report it and get a maintenance guy to come up and fix it while we’re at breakfast. It’s not the most glamorous start to the day, but it gets fixed. Nancy grabs a freshly made omelet from the omelet station, which she says is excellent, and also has avocado toast with fresh tomatoes. We check out of the hotel around 8:45am and hit the road.

Through Iowa & Into Missouri: Subway & Smokers

The ramp from the Old Market district to the interstate is just a few blocks away—closer than we realize. The drive itself is uneventful, winding through parts of Iowa and into Missouri around noon.

We decide to eat lunch out for the first time in a while and pull off at a Subway. Harrison enjoys a spicy Italian and Nancy indulges in her usual tuna sub. The most memorable part of the stop isn’t the food—it is the trio behind us in line. One woman, pushing another in a wheelchair, mentions she’s turning 53 next week. Her voice is raspy, clearly from years of smoking, and she looks far older than her age. Her mother, presumably, is in rough shape too—on oxygen and barely mobile. It is a striking scene.

Next door is a butcher/deli called The Homestead. We almost go there instead, and maybe we should have, but we are in the mood for something quick and familiar.

Arrival in St. Charles: Déjà Vu & Halloween Charm

Traffic around the outskirts of St. Louis is heavier than expected, and we approach St. Charles from a different angle than the last time we passed through here. As we pull up to the Country Inn & Suites by Radisson on Main Street, Nancy realizes it is the same place we stayed a few years ago—nice bit of nostalgia.

After checking in, we go for a walk down the historic riverfront street. Halloween decorations are going up, including a large display in one of the public squares. The streets are quiet for a mid-evening stroll, but the atmosphere is lovely—brick sidewalks, old buildings, and crisp fall air.

Llywelyn’s Irish Pub Patio & Baseball Under the Stars

We consider going to Tony’s On Main, a spot we’d enjoyed on our previous stay here, but it is packed and there are no seats at the bar. We wander back up the street and find Llywelyn’s Irish Pub. It is quiet inside, but the outdoor patio is lively thanks to the unseasonably warm weather.  We grab 2 seats at the bar with a TV in front of us, order drinks, spicy mac-n-cheese bites, and watch a bit of baseball.  Sometimes we order one item and move on to enjoy another place, but the atmosphere right now is just too perfect so we order and split a Turkey Cheddar Melt.  It is a relaxing, low-key evening—exactly what we need after a long day on the road. We’re nearing the end of our road trip and the end of our travel energy.  Eventually, we head back to the hotel, Halloween lights now on, and turn in for the night.

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Day 39: Scenic Route 50, Historic Madison & Karaoke Night

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Day 40:  Sidewalk Conversations, Wine Tastings & Monster Trucks

We get up around 8am, again it’s late for us but we were up late last night.  We make some coffee and decide to walk downtown in search of breakfast. One of the places we’d heard about from the wonderful bartender at the Taproom turned out to be a coffee shop & bakery on Main Street, Red Rooster Coffee & Eatery. We order a couple of bacon bagels, and while Nancy waits inside, I take my coffee outside to cool and grab a table on the sidewalk.  There’s only 2 places in town that serve any type of breakfast, none with sit down table service, so the place is crowded, and service is slower than the pace we like.  The bagels weren’t anything to write home about, so we doubt we’ll return tomorrow.

Sidewalk Eavesdropping & Unexpected Stories

As Harrison sits sipping coffee, he can’t help but overhear two women deep in conversation at a nearby table. From context, he gathers they are both in their late 30’s. One seems to be a pediatrician, possibly interviewing the other for a job. Their chat is fascinating touching on divorce, military service, and how one of them got her training while enlisted. They also have some colorful opinions about pharmaceutical sales reps, calling them sleazy. It is one of those unexpected moments where you learn a lot just by listening.

Riverwalk & Historic Mansions

After breakfast, we head back to the room. Nancy needs to work on bills, so Harrison sets off to explore. He walks the full length of the Riverwalk—about a mile and a half—then wanders through the historic district. One standout is the Lanier Mansion, built by a wealthy man in the 1880s. It’s now owned by a nonprofit and open for tours. He also passes a winery bearing the same name.

Thompson Family Winery & Lanier Tastings

Back at the hotel around 1:00pm, we decide to explore more of the town together. We spot the Thompson Family Winery and walk in just as a tasting is starting. Steve, our host, guides us through eight different wines and shares stories about how each is made. We like a couple and purchase two bottles to enjoy later.  We can tell Steve truly has a passion for his family business.

We move on to explore more of the highlights Harrison saw earlier, together.  We learn there’s a duck-pin bowling alley in town and the thought of experiencing it intrigues us.  We find it nestled inside a wine bar, but it’s not true duck-pin bowling.  The lanes were easily half the standard length and children are taking up all the lanes.

We meander around the waterfront and over to the Lanier Winery. This place has a completely different vibe than the earlier winery.  They are in the process of decorating for Christmas and the woman putting up more says she has over 100 more trees to put up.  Nancy questions where she could possibly find room and she says “Oh ye of little faith”.  Unfortunately, their wines didn’t impress us—one is overly sweet, another lacks flavor, and only one is passable. After three samples, we call it quits and head back downtown.

Shipley’s Tavern: Monster Trucks & Midweek Comfort

We end up at Shipley’s Tavern, a classic bar that’s been around since 1867 – in fact, it is the oldest bar in town. Inside, the grill is right in front of you (think Waffle House vibes), so you watch your food being cooked while you sit. It’s Friday, so the TVs were playing old monster truck reruns—oddly entertaining.  We learn Hanover College is located in Madison and it is homecoming weekend, which explains why there’s more people in town than we anticipated.

We had a bite to eat, and then Nancy suggests we call it an early night. After the karaoke marathon the night before, we are ready to wind down with a movie or two, what we’d probably do if we were at home.

Horror Movie Marathon: Insidious Chapters 1 & 2

Since it’s Halloween season, we decide to dive into a supernatural horror movie series. We start with Insidious, which isn’t bad, and then roll right into Insidious Chapter Two. There’s a third installment we’ll probably pick up soon. We struggle to stay awake during the second movie, and we both crash hard.

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Day 41: Morning Strolls, Small-Town Traffic & Catching Up in Dublin

We wake up around 8:00am and ease into the morning. Harrison takes a shower, gets dressed, and makes coffee while Nancy lounges a bit longer. We only have a 3-hour drive today, so we plan to leave the hotel around 10:00am.  Harrison heads out for another walk to explore more of Madison’s charming back streets.

Historic Strolls & Hungry Crowds

The walk is lovely—quiet neighborhoods, old buildings, and that timeless small-town feel. He wanders to fill the time before looping back to the hotel.  We are both more than ready for breakfast but don’t want to return to where we ate yesterday.  Additionally, yesterday we walked by the only other breakfast place in town and it had very little appeal.

We pack up the car and head to McDonald’s a few miles away because we know it will be quick and we know we’ll enjoy it. It is surprisingly packed—two drive-thru lanes and a full parking lot. One of the busiest McDonald’s we’ve seen. Eventually, we get our food and hit the road, aiming to reach Dublin, Ohio by 2:30pm.

Scenic Drive to Dublin: Off the Interstate & Into Conversation

With time to spare, we drive off interstate as much as possible and take about 3.5 hours, mostly through the backside of Columbus. Our preference is always routes through small towns and on quiet roads.  The drive is smooth and easy.

We have two agenda items today.  The first is meeting up with a friend that lives in the area and the second is for Nancy to attend a small sorority reunion later in the evening.  We check into our hotel as planned at 2:30pm, and Nancy wants to hang back for a bit, thinking Scott and his girlfriend Caroline won’t arrive until 3:00pm. But a quick text at 2:40pm reveals they are already at the bar waiting for us—just a short walk away.

Afternoon Catch-Up & Sorority Send-Off

We join Scott and Caroline at Revelry Tavern, a great local sports bar, and spend a couple of delightful hours catching up on life. Around 5:00pm, Nancy heads off to her sorority event about 5 miles away, leaving Harrison with Scott and Caroline for a few more hours of conversation. Football plays in the background, but we are more focused on swapping stories and talking about everything from travel to work.

Sorority Memories

Nancy was a member of the Gamma Phi Beta sorority during college.  This reunion is really just a gathering of those that live in the greater Columbus area that get together once a year at one of their homes.  Nancy hasn’t seen any of these ladies since she graduated and has only stayed in touch with one or two of the attendees.  The years disappear as we dive into memories of parties and people who shaped our lives during college.  Nancy is so grateful the timing of the reunion fell in line with our travel plans.

New Faces at the Bar: Adam, Brett & Rental Realities

Around 7:00pm, Scott and Caroline head out, and Harrison decides to stick around and watch more football. That’s when he meets Adam and Brett—two guys in their late 30’s or early 40’s. Adam owns four or five rental properties and lives off the income, while Brett is a financial advisor, probably with a firm like Edward Jones.

We share great conversation—easygoing, insightful, and full of laughs. Eventually, Nancy pings me to say she is on her way back, so I head to the hotel to meet her.

Evening Wind-Down & Rest Before the Road

Back at the room, we watch a little TV and settle in for the night. Tomorrow’s another long day of driving, so we fall asleep early, grateful for the good company and smooth transitions.

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Day 42:  Rainstorms and a Return to Virginia

We get up early—around 6:30am—and quickly pack up. After checking out the hotel breakfast options, we decide we want something different (aka better) and head down the street to McDonald’s. It is practically empty, which is a nice change from the crowds we’ve seen earlier in the trip.

Just as we hit the beltway around Columbus, the skies open up. It pours—hard. Visibility drops, and we have to slow to 40 mph. It is a tense stretch of driving, but after about 90 minutes, we outrun the storm. By the time we reach Morgantown, West Virginia, the skies had clear and the rest of the drive is smooth. Check out the RV with the “Ghost Rider”!

Home by 3:00pm & The Race to Return the Rental

The trip is uneventful – a drive we’ve done so many times we’ve lost count. We pull into the driveway around 3:00pm and start unloading the car quickly—we have to return the rental to the airport by 7:00pm and it is a 45-minute drive away.  Our daughter is going to follow Nancy there so she has a ride home, and so Harrison doesn’t miss his beloved Commanders play football starting at 4:15pm.  Our daughter’s car is in the driveway but when we open the garage, we see our daughter is using our 4-runner because it’s gone. Still, we managed to get about 80% unpacked before she pulls in and we end up getting the rental back on time.  Yes, the rental company credited us back for the oil change we had to do near the beginning of the trip.