Part II – Across Ecuador & Peru: Markets, Monasteries, and Lost Civilizations

Overview

This is part 2 of a 6-part series covering the Ecuador and Peru portions of our 54-day journey.  Our trip took us through Central American and then down the west coast of South America to Antarctica before ending in Brazil.

The Complete Series can be found here:

Part I — Central America & the Panama Canal: The Journey Begins

Part II — Across Ecuador & Peru: Markets, Monasteries, and Lost Civilizations

Part III — Chile: Ten Days Along the Edge of the Andes

Part IV — Argentina, The Falkland Islands & Antarctica: To the End of the World

Part V — Uruguay Beach Resorts and Wineries

Part VI—  Brazil: The Final Stretch North

Manta, Ecuador – Tuna Boats, Panama Hats, and Coastal Culture

Arrival in Manta

We arrive in Manta and disembark around 7:15am, then board a bus for a ride through town. Manta is a major seaport that proudly claims to be the largest tuna‑fishing port on the Pacific. Throughout the morning we watch crews preparing massive tuna boats to head out to sea — many of them equipped with helicopter pads and actual helicopters used to scout schools of fish.

Through Manta’s Neighborhoods

Leaving the dock, our bus passes through some of Manta’s poorer neighborhoods on the way to Montecristi. Laundry hangs from balconies, small shops line the streets, and life moves at a slower, coastal pace.

Wooden Fishing Boat Construction

In Manta we watch a group of craftsmen building traditional wooden fishing boats — a skill that’s been passed down through families for generations. The process is entirely hands‑on: long planks are heated over open flames, bent into shape, and fitted together by eye, without blueprints or modern machinery. The men work on several hulls at once, and a single boat can take months to complete, which is why only eight to twelve of these vessels are built each year. It is easy to see how this old‑world craft remains essential to Manta’s identity as one of the world’s great tuna‑fishing ports.

Panama Hat Factory in Montecristi

Our next stop is a factory where artisans hand‑make Panama hats — which, despite the name, originated in Ecuador. The story goes that Teddy Roosevelt wore one during the construction of the Panama Canal, was photographed, and the association stuck. Ecuadorians are quick to point out the misnomer.

The factory sits in what looks like a sketchy neighborhood, but our guide assures us it is safe, with plenty of police presence. We spend about 40 minutes watching the hat‑making process while vendors try to sell hats ranging from $50 to $300.  Notice the people making the hats are on a chair and bent over a pedestal where they make the hats.  Hats can take anywhere from 3 weeks to 6 months to create, depending on the intricacy of the design and the width of the toquilla straw used.

Exploring Montecristi

We aren’t interested in buying a hat, so we take a short walk around the block. The area wis hilly, and Nancy feels uneasy about the neighborhood, so she returns to the bus. Harrison spots a church a couple of blocks away in another direction and decides to explore. The square is decorated for Christmas, and the church, perched on a small hill, is open. Harrison takes some photos, then goes back to get Nancy.  Together we wander nearby streets bustling with shops and food stalls.

The “Panama Lady” Statue

Back on the bus, we make a quick stop at the statue of the Panama Lady, a local landmark tied to the region’s hat‑making heritage.

Agave Fiber Workshop

Next, we visit a workshop in the little community of Chorrillo where artisans strip agave plants — the same plant used for tequila — to make fibers and cloth. It is fascinating to watch the process from raw plant to finished material.  We watch as weavers use a loom to create sacks with the fibers.

Tagua Nut Jewelry

We then visit a small shop where jewelry, ornaments and buttons are made from tagua nuts, sometimes called “vegetable ivory.” The carvings are intricate, smooth, and surprisingly elegant for something grown on a palm. Nancy gets a free carving when she guesses an artist is making an owl during the demonstration. At one of the tables Nancy also picks up an Ecuador shot glass while we admire the handiwork.

Cultural Museum in Manta

Our final stop wis a small cultural museum in downtown Manta. Exhibits highlight fishing traditions and rural life, including bamboo huts raised on tall stilts. We spend about 30 minutes there before heading back to the ship.

Back to the ship

As we head back to the ship we se a fish market down by the water, a Yacht Club, a large outdoor entertainment area and several gated communities.

Beautiful Sunset

As we head out of Manta the sun is setting and we are treated to a great sunset over the city.

 

Guayaquil, Ecuador – Rescue Animals, Historic Buildings, and a Traditional Lunch

A Delayed Start

We get up, have breakfast, and Harrison takes a morning walk on the ship since our tour isn’t scheduled to leave until 9:15am.  We go down to the tour group meeting point on the ship (the Marina Lounge) — only to learn the ship is late docking. We don’t get down the gangway until about 9:45am. Once ashore, we find our bus and begin an hour‑long ride through Guayaquil, watching the people, shops, and neighborhoods roll by.  Guayaquil doesn’t have the safest of reputations and research says to only explore this area with an organized tour.

A City of Contrasts

Guayaquil is full of contrasts. Some areas are quite poor, with countless small stores and tightly packed homes. Then suddenly we pass new high‑end houses, modern developments, and massive malls. We even spot two Chili’s restaurants, plus Burger King, KFC, and at least two large malls complete with huge movie theaters. The mix of old and new is surprising and fascinating to see.

A Tour Not Quite What We Expected

We originally thought this excursion was part of a larger city tour, but it turns out to focus mainly on a historic park just outside the city. The first half features rescue animals, while the second half showcases historic buildings that have been relocated and preserved in one place.

Lunch in a Historic Building

After exploring the grounds, we go upstairs into one of the historic hotel buildings for lunch. The meal is excellent — traditional Ecuadorian food with plantains, fish, and a delicious dessert. We also meet Steve, Sandy, Celeste, and Adele, which makes the stop even more enjoyable.

Back Through Guayaquil

Traffic in Guayaquil is heavy, and it takes another hour to get back through town. Along the way, we watch street vendors weaving between cars, selling goods to drivers — a constant flow of motion and commerce.  As we ride, our guide explains to us that cruise ship tourism is fairly new for Ecuador, so the infrastructure at other South American ports is still being put in place here.

 

Trujillo, Peru & Surroundings – Reed Boats, Ancient Cities, and Peruvian Horses

Reed Boat Demonstration

Our cruise ship docks in Salavery, but there’s virtually no tourism in the town.  So our day begins with about an hour’s drive over very rough roads from the Salaverry harbor to a small coastal area where local fishermen demonstrate their traditional reed boats. It wis a fascinating 20‑minute presentation — they show how the boats are constructed, then kneel in one and paddle out into the water and back again.  A boat takes 30 minutes to 1 hour to make, depending on the skill of the fisherman.  They last between 1 and 1.5 months, so there’s a constant cycle of rebuilding the reed boats.  All in all, it is simple and deeply rooted in centuries of tradition.

Exploring Chan Chan

From there we continue to the Chan Chan Archaeological Site, where we spend about an hour and a half exploring the ruins.  Chan Chan was the capital of the Chimu Kingdom which reached its peak in the 15th century not long before falling to the Incas.   The UNESCO World Heritage site reflects a strict political, social, religious and economic strategy, marked by the city’s division into nine citadels/palaces.  Chan Chan was the largest earthen architecture city in pre-Columbian America.  The scale of the place is staggering — the entire site covers roughly 20 square kilometers, and only a small percentage has been excavated. Even so, what we see is impressive: long corridors, restored walls, and glimpses of the vast city this once was.

Downtown Trujillo

Next we head into downtown Trujillo, stopping at the city square where restored colonial buildings surround a beautiful plaza.  It boasts a magnificent church, a towering statue, and numerous large Christmas decorations that fill the area with color and charm. We walk around for a while, taking photos and soaking in the atmosphere.

Peruvian Horse Show & Lunch

About 20 minutes outside of town we stop for lunch and a Peruvian horse show. Lunch is pretty good for Harrison, but Nancy isn’t a fan of the goat meat.  In addition to a horsemanship show, dancers perform traditional Peruvian dances (some with the horses) — graceful, rhythmic, and fun to watch. Also unexpectantly, we see a cock fighting ring with its chick coop.

Temple of the Sun and Moon

A short drive brings us to our final stop: the Temple of the Sun and Moon another enormous archaeological site and honestly one of the most fascinating of the day. The Temple of the Sun is a 141-foot-high adobe pyramid that was once the heart of Moche society and showcases their architectural skill.  The Temple of the Moon features stunning murals that reveal the Moche spiritual practices and ceremonial spaces.  Under a massive protective enclosure, we see beautifully preserved murals and ruins. Excavation has been ongoing for 35 years, yet they’ve barely scratched the surface. We really enjoy exploring this site — a powerful reminder of how much history still lies hidden beneath the earth.

Migratory Birds by the Thousands

As we return to port we are greeted by thousands of birds that have migrated to this part of the world for the summer.  The ship even provides a series of wet mats to wipe our feet to remove the bird doo-doo before coming back on board.

 

Lima, Peru – Historic Highlights, Encounters, and Souvenir Mishaps

Oceanfront Drive & Lima’s Upscale Districts

We spend a wonderful day exploring the highlights of Lima, Peru. Driving along the oceanfront, we admire the many parks and the dramatic cliffs on which the city is built. The area where we begin is striking — luxurious condos and houses valued around $4 million, offering a glimpse of Lima’s upscale side.

Park of Love & the Heart of the City

Our first stop is the Park of Love, featuring a beautiful statue of two figures in an intimate embrace.  Lima hosts a yearly competition where couples try to recreate the sculpture’s embrace for the longest amount of time.  From there, we drive through the bustling center of Lima — a massive city with a population of over 30 million.

Casa de Aliaga

Next, we visit Casa de Aliaga, located just steps from the Plaza de Armas in the historic center. This mansion is considered the oldest continuously inhabited colonial home in the Americas, remaining in the same family for 17 generations over 5 centuries. Only part of the house is open to the public, as the family still resides in sections of the enormous property beside the Presidential Palace.

Plaza de Armas 

After touring the mansion, we explore the festive Plaza de Armas, decorated for Christmas. The square is surrounded by the Government Palace (the official resident of the President of Peru), Lima City Hall, the Portal de Escribanos (administrative building) and the Archbishop’s Palace.  According to historical accounts, it was the explorer Francisco Pizarro himself who chose this location as the epicenter of his discovered territory.  In was the site where Peru declared its independence in 1821.  Most of the building’s facades have maintained their characteristic style.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Peru

We also enter the Metropolitan Cathedral of Lima, where we see the tomb of the conquistador Francisco Pizarro.  Built on the site of the Inca shrine of the Puma Inti, it is the oldest and largest church in Peru.  Pizarro himself laid the first stone in 1535 and also carried the first wood needed for construction to the site.  The new cathedral later had Saint John the Evangelist as its patron saint.  Reconstruction over many centuries has evolved this once “old shack-type building covered with straw” to the opulent UNESCO World Heritage Site that exists today.

San Francisco Monastery

Our journey continues to the San Francisco Monastery, recently renovated and stunning in its design.  Built between 1763 and 1774, walking around both the inside and the outside feels like you are stepping back in time.   The impressive and extensive library holds over 25,000 Spanish, English and Quechua books – some so old they are only handled by the Franciscan months.  The convent is built around a peaceful central garden filled with fruit trees.  The cloisters boast beautiful tilework in mid-state of restoration as well as ceiling frescoes and numerous 17th century paintings following the Passion of Christ.  Beneath the monastery lie catacombs said to contain the remains of 25,000 people, though we did not descend into them during our visit.

Historic Mansions & City Impressions

Wandering near the old city square reveals many historic mansions, some undergoing renovation, adding to the vibrancy of the area. Lima is a city of contrasts — wealth and poverty side by side — yet it feels lively, energetic, and full of character. We feel very comfortable staying in the central part of Lima, exploring its shopping districts and historic streets. After today’s experiences, we think we would gladly return someday. At one point, we leave the church tour early because it is moving slowly.  Instead, we go souvenir hunting and we find a Lima shot glass, bargaining with the vendor to break up a flask & shot glass set.

Plaza Francia

Just a few blocks from the bustle of central Lima sits Plaza Francia, a graceful square with a distinctly European feel. At its center rises a bronze Statue of Liberty — a gift from the French community in 1926 to commemorate the centennial of Peru’s independence. The plaza is framed by neoclassical buildings and quiet gardens, giving it a calm, almost old‑world atmosphere. It’s easy to miss if you’re focused on the city’s bigger landmarks, but stepping into Plaza Francia feels like discovering a small, elegant pocket of history tucked right into the heart of Lima.

Chaotic Traffic & Closing Impressions

The ride back is chaotic, with traffic reminding us of Naples, Italy — drivers weaving, merging aggressively, and intersections packed with cars. Despite the madness, it is an exhilarating end to a vibrant day in Lima. At one point though a truck of women all dressed up for some event pass us.

What’s Next – Looking Ahead from Part II

Part II closes with us sailing south along the Pacific coast, having crossed the Panama Canal and explored the vibrant ports of Central and northern South America. Ahead lies a dramatic shift in scenery and scale. Part III will take us deeper into the Southern Hemisphere — to the windswept edges of Patagonia, the wildlife of the Falklands, and ultimately the icy frontier of Antarctica. The journey becomes more remote, the landscapes more extreme, and the sense of adventure unmistakably stronger. If Part II was about culture, coastlines, and the rhythm of life along the Pacific, Part III is where the expedition spirit truly begins.

The Complete Series can be found here:

Part I — Central America & the Panama Canal: The Journey Begins

Part II – Across Ecuador & Peru: Markets, Monasteries, and Lost Civilizations

Part III — Chile: Ten Days Along the Edge of the Andes

Part IV — Argentina, The Falkland Islands & Antarctica: To the End of the World

Part V — Uruguay Beach Resorts and Wineries

Part VI—  Brazil: The Final Stretch North