This is post 22 on our cross-country USA adventure as we travel though Kansas, Oklahoma, Arkansas and parts of Kentucky on our 6-month adventure.
This bog covers the Pueblo Colorado to Hot Springs Arkansas leg of the trip.
Day 1: Pueblo to Dodge City (day 170 of the overall trip)
Pueblo Colorado to the Kansas Border
Today is a driving/transition day as we head from Pueblo, CO to Dodge City, KS. We stopped for lunch in Dodge City in 2009 as part of our cross-country journey to South Dakota and we wonder if or how it has changed since then. Our drive begins today on US-50 across eastern Colorado to the Kansas border.
Taking a Break at the Border
The whole drive today will be just over 5 hours, but every drive needs a break now and then to stretch your legs. We stop at a rest area at the Colorado/Kansas border.
Western Kansas to Dodge City
Boy, once you reach Kansas, you understand how flat the landscape is. We pass endless fields, a number of small towns and a lot of grain towers.
Cousin Eddie’s
If you’ve ever watched any of National Lampoon’s “Vacation” movies, you know that Cousin Eddie lives in Kansas. We pass through a town that claims to be “that town” and see a small establishment named in his honor.
Oil Drilling and Refineries
As we drive, we pass by an oil and gas refinery. We see more drilling in fields than we expected.
Large Cattle Feed Lots
We also pass by a lot of large-scale industrial cattle farms with thousands of cows almost as far as the eye can see.
Best Western North Edge Inn
It takes us about 5 hours and one time zone change (Mountain to Central time) and soon we’re in town. We’re staying at the Best Western North Edge Inn. It is a newer hotel about 2 miles from the historic section of Dodge City. Our room is great, but we’re going to head to the historic section for a late lunch and a quick look around. In our short drive, we realize how much growth has taken place in this area. We’re only here 1 night, then 2 at our next stay, and we probably should have reversed that. There’s honestly a lot more here to see than meets the eye, but those places will have to be on a future Harrison and Nancy adventure. We make an attempt to have a late lunch at 2 different non-chain “period themed” restaurants, but neither opens until 5:00pm, so we settle on Applebees. We meet two good old boys sporting a ZZ Top look and ironically, they teasingly refer to us as Virginia Hillbillies. We hang out for the happy hour specials, conversation and some world series playoffs.
Day 2: Dodge City to Tulsa (Owasso) (day 171 of the overall trip)
Dodge City
Dodge City is famous as a rowdy frontier town in the Old Wild West. It began in 1847 when Fort Mann was built to protect travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. It collapsed in 1848 when native Americans deluged the fort. Rebuilt as Fort Atkinson, the army abandoned it a few years later after building Fort Larned in 1859 about 65 miles to the northeast. After the Civil War, the army built Fort Dodge here to assist with managing and protecting the Santa Fe Trail. Fort Dodge remained in operation until 1882.
Meanwhile a town began to emerge once Henry Sitler built a sod house to oversee his cattle operations in the region. Travelers began using his house as a stopping point along the Santa Fe Trail and soon mores civilians came to provide goods and services to these fine folks. With the advent of the Santa Fe Railroad, Dodge City was officially staked out and settled – and the railroad would be a huge part of the cattle trade. Dodge City became a boomtown, with thousands of cattle passing annually through its stockyards. The peak years of the cattle trade in Dodge City were from 1883 to 1884. As the traffic increased, so did the number of saloons, brothels and gambling halls which attracted many a famous gunslinger.
Boot Hill Museum
Up bright and early, we get to the Boot Hill Museum minutes after it opens. This newer museum didn’t exist in its current form back in 2009. The old section still exists and is a vital part of the overall museum, but they’ve added an entire large building and it is filled with information and artifacts. The museum has more than 60,000 objects, photographs, and documents from the last half of the 19th century. We start in the larger building where we learn about Wyatt Earp’s time as the assistant city marshal. He lived here between his stays in Deadwood and Tombstone. We learn about Bat Masterson, a gunfighter, professional gambler and sheriff of Dodge City.
After exploring the new building, we head behind it to the part of the museum that existed the last time we were here. There’s a series of connected building with replica store fronts that try to depict what Dodge City’s Front Street looked like back in its heyday. The interior is also a series of museum rooms where each focuses on areas like the apothecary, the tonsilorium parlor (the dentist), the Long Branch Saloon, a gambling room, the mortuary, etc. The museum even pays tribute to the long-running radio and TV-show, Gunsmoke, that was set in Dodge City.
Behind this area and up a short hill is the Boot Hill Cemetery. There are many old west cemeteries with this name because of the many gunfighters who “died with their boots on”, which meant they didn’t die of natural causes. Some died in gun fights and some by hanging (or worse). A total of 43 people were once buried here, but all bodies have been moved and today it is just a series of replica make-shift wooden grave markers.
Transition to Owasso, OK (northern suburb of Tulsa)
We take US-400 East out of Dodge City and cut south on US-183 to Coldwater. There, we shift to US-160 east for over 150 miles. Finally, we head south on US-75 before following the GPS directions to our hotel in Owasso, OK, a northern suburb of Tulsa. Neither of us has been to the Tulsa area before and we chose Owasso since we’re not “big city people” and the suburbs suits us better. We chose the destination before doing any research on what there was to see and/or do in the area. We do remember there were some scenic drives in the area, but none turn out to be viable for our plans. We are definitely running out of steam for travel planning at this point, but we still enjoy the drive.
South out of Kansas and into Oklahoma
Growing up, people in our generation watched “The Wizard of Oz” that played once a year on TV. We remember when Dorothy woke up in Oz, she held her precious dog, Toto, and remarked: “We aren’t in Kansas anymore” because this other land looked so different. In our experience shifting from Kansas into Oklahoma, there’s not a lot of difference.
Dinner and Hotel
We’ve chosen to stay at the TownPlace Suites Tulsa/North Owasso rather than our usual Best Western brand since this hotel is within walking distance to a wider selection of restaurants. The hotel is associated with the Marriott chain and we’re members there too. It is a recently renovated hotel, and our room is spacious and well suited for us to spend some time in. After a mere 10-minute walk, our butts are parked on bar stools at Logan’s Roadhouse. We’ve always liked this small restaurant chain and going here feels more and more like home. We’re not sure if we’re starting to miss being home because we’re tired of being “on-the-road” or just because we know it is only about 2 weeks away.
Day 3: Owasso (Tulsa) (day 172 of the overall trip)
Believe it or not, we’ve driven another 10,000 miles since our time in Anchorage and today’s the day for our “tourist” visit to the Toyota dealership. They have us in and out in under 30 minutes and that was a treat! There isn’t much to do in this area, so we decide to take a day off and just relax, try to wrestle this cold we both have and catch up on blogging. We’re at a stage with the cold where it has settled in our ears and we’re both having some issues hearing. It is very frustrating for both of us to be experiencing it at the same time – we’re either shouting when we talk to each other or talking into each other’s ears.
We have lunch at Schlotsky’s Deli just a 10-minute walk from the hotel. Many, many years ago we had one of these by where we worked, and we know it will have great deli sandwiches for lunch. We spend the afternoon watching movies and blogging in the room. For dinner, we walk a mere 10 minutes in the other direction to Buffalo Wild Wings. Today feels like such a slice of being home.
Day 4: Owasso (Tulsa) to Hot Springs Village, AR (day 173 of the overall trip)
Driving Scenic Oklahoma
We say bye, bye Owasso and begin driving through the eastern hills of Oklahoma toward Hot Springs Arkansas. We drive east along US-412 to Locust Grove, then turn south on OK-82 through Tahlequah and then east to Fort Smith on the border between Oklahoma and Arkansas. Oklahoma is really beautiful, particularly this time of year when fall colors are still gracing the route.
Fort Smith Arkansas to Hot Springs Village Arkansas
As we enter Arkansas, we realize that many of its backroads are listed as scenic drives. We pass through many small towns, each with its own personality.
Our Lodging
We’ve chosen to stay in Hot Springs Village, a gated golfing community about 20 miles north of Hot Springs. As we’ve said many times, we aren’t “city people” and we prefer the suburbs. This lodging will be the last VRBO of this trip – and we picked a really nice one! We have a lovely 2-bedroom unit located in a long building with a total of 4 units. Our unit is on a dead-end road in a residential community, and we have lots of trees and quiet surrounding us. Once again, the rental feels a lot like home with a well-stocked kitchen, large screen TVs and a comfy couch. It also has a nicely furnished screen porch, but the weather is a little too cold to get use of it.
Day 5: A Day in Hot Springs Village, AR (day 174 of the overall trip)
The weather is pouring down rain and between that and our colds and lack of hearing, we decide it is best to have another day in. There’s nothing wrong with a “day like home” filled with some college football, several movies, home cooked food and just hanging out.
Day 6: Hot Springs, AR (day 175 of the overall trip)
Hot Springs
The weather is a little better today. It isn’t pouring, but there is a constant drizzle. We decide to brave the weather and head into the historic Hot Springs, Arkansas area. We’re staying about a 30 minute drive from the historic downtown that includes Hot Springs National Park as well as Bathhouse Row. The closer we get to town, the happier we are that we chose to stay outside of town. Hot Springs could use an influx of renovation – it is still functional, but it is almost like stepping back in time to the 1970’s or so. It just looks tired and worn-out. Granted, the main draw is the National Park and the Bathhouses – and those have been kept up. The surrounding old hotels/motels, most restaurants and shops, however, need a facelift. We find the free parking garage right in the heart of tourist section and we walk across the pay parking lot to the main strip that was once referred to as the Grand Promenade.
Hot Springs National Park & Bathhouse Row
Used for centuries by native inhabitants, Congress declared this area as a place for “national recreation” back in 1832 before the concept of a National Park existed. The land had been acquired from the French as part of the Louisiana Purchase, however, Congress failed to put any protection regulations in place. People just came and built homes, businesses and buildings that turned the geothermal waters into rustic spas. The great fire of 1878 destroyed most of the rustic wooden structures, but people were determined to rebuild. At this point the federal government finally stepped in with building regulations and as the town was rebuilt, it evolved from a frontier town to a spa city. The new bathhouses built in the 1880’s were glorious, mostly built in the Victorian style.
Thirty years later, the newer wooden bathhouses were rebuilt with fire-resistant brick and stucco, several of which featured marble walls, billiard rooms, gymnasiums, and stained-glass windows. To distinguish themselves, some bathhouses focused on luxurious surroundings while others focused on luxurious services. People came for miles to experience the reported healing properties of the miraculous hot springs’ waters, but some came just for the experience. In the 1920’s it was used by Major League Baseball for its spring training. It became Hot Springs National Park in 1921 and is the second smallest park in the system. The park includes portions of downtown Hot Springs, making it one of the most accessible national parks.
Spa bathing fell out of favor in the 1960’s and one by one, the bathhouses closed – all except for the Buckstaff. In 1974, Bathhouse Row was designated a National Historic Landmark District and efforts began to renovate the structures. All eight of the grand bathhouses have been fully restored with the Fordyce Bathhouse serving as the park’s visitor center. The Buckstaff and Quapaw are the only facilities still operating as bathhouses. The Ozark, Hale, Maurice, Lamar, and the Superior are used for other purposes.
Fordyce Bathhouse (aka the visitor center)
After walking up and down the main street of town, marveling at the former opulence of the town (with some areas getting renovated, thankfully), we finally stop in at the visitor center. We not only learn the history of this area, but the displays are placed throughout the three-story structure, so we get to see almost the entire space. It is the largest of the 8 bathhouses and also has a basement and a courtyard. The numerous stained glass ceilings are truly a sight to behold. We see gorgeous cherry wood adorning the lady’s and men’s changing rooms and massage rooms on the second floor. The individual bathing areas are primarily made of marble. The third floor was used primarily for relaxation with several “state rooms”, a grand piano room as well as a gymnasium. The basement contained a bowling alley. One can only imagine how incredible it must have felt to be pampered in such a glorious place.
Copper Penny Pub
With rain still drizzling outside and cloudy skies, we opt not to do any of the hiking in the park – another of those future Nancy & Harrison things to do on our next pass through the area. In the meantime, it is Sunday and we opt to catch lunch and football at the Copper Penny Pub. The bar is full but they have a second row of elevated bar seats behind the main bar area. We have a wonderfully attentive barmaid, Cindy, who takes super good care of us. This is an Irish Pub that has 8 big screen TVs and we have a great time and great food.
Meanwhile, Back at the Ranch
We head back to our cozy rental to start the packing process and just enjoy the rest of the evening. This rental is the last place with a washer/dryer so we’ll get everything washed up before we leave. We’ll even consolidate suitcases so we only have to carry one in/out of our lodging locations that will cover the last 13 days of our journey home. It will be all hotels from here to home and while hotels do have laundry facilities, they are shared and they use lots of quarters, so we’ll only use them if we really need to.
Summary
As we drove through Kansas, Oklahoma and half of Arkansas, we realize how under-rated these states are for their natural beauty and history. Since we love traveling in the more western states, we’re glad we have these three states to pass through again in the future. Dodge City, KS definitely deserves more time as does Hot Springs, AR.
Up Next
We continue our journey toward our home in Virginia. We’ll be traveling along the Ohio River through Kentucky on our next leg.
Prior Legs of the Journey
Part 1 – The Trip to Key West is located here.
Part 2 – Cross Country to Bellingham Washington is located here.
Part 3 – The Alaska Ferry Inner Passage to Juneau is located here.
Part 4- The Alaska Ferry Inner Passage to Haines & Skagway is located here.
Part 5 – Haines to Fairbanks Alaska is located here.
Part 6 – Three weeks in Fairbanks is located here
Part 7 – Fairbanks to the Arctic Ocean is located here.
Part 8 – Denali National Park is located here.
Part 9 – Denali & Richardson Highways (Central Alaska) is located here.
Part 10 – Wasilla Alaska Area is located here
Part 11 – Homer Alaska Area is located here
Part 12 – Seward Alaska Area is located here
Part 13 – Girdwood Alaska Area is located here
Part 14 – Kodiak Alaska Area is located here
Part 15 – “Back to the Lower 48” is located here
Part 16 – “The Volcano Legacy” is located here
Part 17 – Northern California is located here
Part 18 – The Nevada and California Desert Adventure is located here
Part 19 – San Diego is located here
Part 20 – Crossing Arizona is located here
Part 21 – Utah and Colorado is located here
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