Overview

We hadn’t planned to go to Japan this winter, in fact Japan wasn’t even on our radar.  Then, one of our sons called us in late fall and said he was going to visit Japan for 9 days in February (after he finished up a job he was working on in Saipan) and wanted to know if we were interested in joining him for a little adventure. After a little bit of consideration, we said yes and started planning this trip which would take us to the cities of Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Hiroshima.  Our son had previously spent a long weekend in Tokyo so we knew we could leverage the extensive local and regional train networks.   We bought a few travel books, read through numerous travel blogs and this is what we came up with.

2025 Japan Adventure

Day 1 – Tokyo

Tokyo is considered the most populated city in the world, with a metropolitan area population of over 37 million people (for context, that’s four times the population of New York City while only 2.8 times larger in phsycial size).  Tokyo comprises 23 wards, akin to New York City’s boroughs like Queens, Bronx, or Manhattan. We’re staying in Shinjuku, a vibrant commercial and administrative hub. Home to Shinjuku Station—the world’s busiest railway station, averaging 3.59 million people daily in 2018—this ward offers prime access to the Kabukicho entertainment district and Tokyo’s extensive train network, making it easy to explore the city.

Granbell Hotel

We decide to stay at the Granbell Hotel which is located in the heart of Tokyo’s lively Kabukicho district in Shinjuku and only a short walk to Shinjuku Station. We arrive at Narita Airport and find our son Carl who has come on a flight from Saipan.  We use Welcome Pickups for private transportation to the hotel rather than lugging our bags on a train after 10 hours of flights.   It was about the same cost for 3 people as it would have been for all our train tickets (and would have required 2 trains).  After a 2-hour ride, we arrive at the Granbell, get checked in and head out to explore and find dinner.  NOTE:  The Granbell has an awesome rooftop bar with amazing views of the city which is particularly beautiful at night when the city is ablaze in lights!

Kabukicho District

Shinjuku’s Kabukicho is Tokyo’s most infamous nightlife hub, a dense weave of streets buzzing with hostess bars, clubs, and quirky attractions. Known as “the sleepless town,” it blends the risqué with the absurd, offering a gritty yet captivating slice of urban Japan. There are tons of restaurants for us to ponder as we walk the streets and get mesmerized by all the lights and glitter.  And Japan is a very safe country for tourists with little fear of pickpockets, etc.

Red Light District

Tokyo’s red-light areas, like parts of Kabukicho, are subtle compared to brash red-light districts such as Amsterdam’s.  There are no scantily clad workers beckoning from windows.   Instead, discreet signs with coy smiley faces or polite invitations hint at the offerings. Japan’s laws ban prostitution, but a loophole permits “private agreements” between consenting adults, creating a regulated, shadowy world that mirrors the nation’s quiet, orderly approach to sensitive matters.

Godzilla

For fans of Japanese cinema, Hotel Gracery in Kabukicho boasts a life-sized Godzilla bust on its eighth floor. With its wide-open mouth poised to attack, this iconic monster overlooks the district—a hidden gem often missed by travelers. Keep your eyes peeled for this towering lizard amid the neon chaos. We waited on the street until at the top of the hour when Godzilla roared to life for about a minute!  Music is pumped over loudspeakers, Godzilla roars and shoots fire from his mouth!

A Late Night Snack and Off to Bed

We had a 10-hour flight from Hawaii, a 2-hour ride to the hotel and after exploring Kabukicho for a bit so we are running out of energy for the first day. We find Kim’s Cafe (which turns out to serve Korean food) for an evening snack of a robust and delicious appetizer sampler.   We then head back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep and a full day of exploring tomorrow.

Day 2 – The Chiyoda and Shibuya Wards

Shinjuku Station

We make our way to Shinjuku Station which was measured in 2018 to have an average of 3.59 million people per day and earns the distinction as the world’s busiest railway station. It’s very large and disorienting at first but we soon find our way to a ticket office, and it helps that signs are also in English. It’s not long before we figure out what train and platform to use to get to the Imperial Palace, our first stop of the day.

Imperial Palace

After a 30-minute train ride we exit the station in the Chiyoda ward and enjoy the short walk to enter the grounds of the Imperial Palace. We have to wait in line to get our ID checked and to get a free pass issued to us.  After a short introduction we are off on a guided English tour.

The Imperial Palace, residence of Japan’s Emperor, occupies the former site of 17th-century Edo Castle. Since it was originally built as a fortress, the design focused on defensive function or ostentatious display – which actually reflects the Japanese cultural values of subtlety and harmony with nature rather than overt grandeur.  Surrounded by lush gardens and moats, it offers a tranquil escape from Tokyo’s bustle. Key structures include the Fukiage Palace (the Emperor’s home) and the Kyūden (for ceremonies). The East Gardens, open year-round, showcase historical significance, while the scenic Nijubashi bridges mark the inner grounds’ entrance. Guided tours are available, though the inner palace remains private.

Meji Jingu Shire Tokyo

We use the train again to transition to the Shibuya ward.  Located in Shibuya, the Meiji Jingu Shrine honors Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Completed in 1920, it’s enveloped by a 100,000-tree forest donated nationwide. A massive torii gate leads through serene paths to the main hall, where visitors offer prayers, buy charms, and write wishes on ema plaques—it is an oasis amid Tokyo’s urban sprawl.

Shibuya Scramble Crossing

Outside Shibuya Station’s Hachiko exit, this intersection is dubbed the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing. Every two minutes, traffic halts in all directions, unleashing up to 3,000 people per cycle—over 500,000 on peak days—making it a mesmerizing swirl of humanity.

Tokyo Skytree

Tokyo Skytree is a broadcasting and observation tower, located in Sumida, Tokyo, Japan. It is the second tallest tower in Japan at 2080 feet and it opened in 2012.  Millions of visitors visit the Skytree each year with options to see Tokyo from two different floors of the observation tower: the Tembo Deck at around 1148 feet and the Tembo Galleria situated at 1476 feet above the ground and the site of the skywalk.  You ride on a glass tube-style elevator to get to either floor and are then treated to a very expansive view.  Our son had gone to the Skytree during the day when he last visited Tokyo.  On this trip, he wants to experience it at night.  We were exhausted (we had a much greater time zone adjustment than he did), so he went by himself – but shared those amazing photos with us to share here.  FYI – there is timed entry tickets, but no restriction for how long you can stay at the top.  Reservations are highly recommended.

Granbell Floor 13

We opt out of going to the sky tree but decide when we get back to check out the rooftop bar and restaurant. The views are not as sweeping as the Skytree but they are great in there own way.

Day 3 – The Taito Ward

Today we will travel about 30 minutes by train to the Taito ward of Tokyo to enjoy a few museums.

Ueno Park

Established in 1873, Ueno Park in Tokyo blends nature and culture across its sprawling grounds. Famous for spring cherry blossoms, it hosts a zoo, museums, shrines, and monuments, drawing locals and tourists alike to its historical charm.

Japanese Festival

Ueno Park often hosts vibrant Japanese festivals, celebrating traditions with food stalls, performances, and seasonal festivities, enhancing its cultural allure.  We are fortunate to walk through a myriad of food vendors, games of chance and get to catch some vibrant musical performances of various types.

National Museum of Science and Nature

In Ueno Park, the National Museum of Science and Nature (founded in 1877) explores Japan’s natural history (Japan Gallery) and global topics like biodiversity and space (Global Gallery).  It offers a comprehensive dive into science and nature.

Tokyo National Museum

Also in Ueno Park, Japan’s oldest and largest museum (est. 1872) houses extensive Asian art and artifacts. The Honkan displays Japanese treasures like samurai armor and calligraphy, while the Toyokan features works from China, Korea, and India.

Taito-Ku District of Tokyo

Near Ueno Station, Ameya-Yokocho (Ameyoko) is a lively market street stretching to Okachimachi. Known for fresh produce, seafood, clothing, and street food, its energetic vibe attracts both locals and visitors.  After days of Asian cuisine, we duck into a British Pub and dine on an exquisite pizza – once in a while you need a taste of “home”.

Day 4 – Mount Fuji Area

Today, we’ve booked a private tour that includes a private driver and guide for the day.  Weather-wise, we couldn’t have asked and gotten a more beautiful, fairly warm and crystal-clear skies.

Mount Fuji is an active stratovolcano located on the island of Honshu, with a summit elevation of 12,389 ft 3 in. It is the highest mountain in Japan, the second-highest volcano located on an island in Asia, and seventh-highest peak of an island on Earth.  Mount Fuji’s exceptionally symmetrical cone, which is covered in snow for about five months of the year, is commonly used as a cultural icon of Japan and is frequently depicted in art and photography.  It is frequented by hikers and mountain climbers and is one of the most popular attractions om Japan for sightseers.  Fuji means wealth or abundance.  It is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural site.  The last eruption was in 1707.  After earthquakes in 2011 and 2021, there is speculation the volcano may erupt again soon and the country is actively creating evacuation plans should it occur.

Hakkai Oshino Village

Our first stop is in Hakkai Oshino Village.  In the Fuji Five Lakes region, Oshino Hakkai has eight crystal-clear ponds fed by Mount Fuji’s snowmelt, filtered through lava for over 80 years. Traditional thatched-roof houses surround these pristine waters, home to fish and plants, while nearby shops offer local crafts and cuisine.

Kitaguchi Hongu Fuji Sengen Shrine

Our next stop is a shrine at Fujiyoshida City at Mount Fuji’s northern base.  This Shinto shrine, dating to 110 CE, marks the Yoshida Trail’s historic start. Founded in 788 to honor Sengen, Mount Fuji’s deity, it’s a spiritual cornerstone for pilgrims.

Oishi Park

On Lake Kawaguchi’s northern shore, Oishi Park offers stunning Mount Fuji views framed by seasonal flower gardens, including summer lavender fields.  Our guide tells us about a particular ice cream shop he insists we try.  Despite it being winter, we opt to have dessert before lunch and indulge in some super creamy soft-serve ice cream.

Arakurayama Segen Park

In Fujiyoshida, this park features the Chureito Pagoda, a five-story structure set against Mount Fuji and cherry blossoms in spring. A 398-step climb to the observation deck reveals panoramic views, making it a photographer’s dream.

Day 5 – Transition to Osaka and Exploring Osaka

To transition from Tokyo to Osaka, we get to experience the famous JR Bullet train (JR stands for Japanese Railway).  It takes us only 3 hours and 20 minutes to travel 325 miles, with speeds up to 200mph.  It would have taken 5 hours to travel by car.  One thing you learn about the Japanese transit system – it is very precise.  If it says the train leaves at 4:06, it leaves at 4:06.  Trains run every 10-15 minutes for popular lines and are almost always full.

For Osaka, we chose to stay at the RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka that offers free shuttle service from the JR Osaka Station to/from the hotel.  This turns out to be VERY convenient since temperatures in Osaka are chillier than Tokyo – so we try to keep outdoor walking to a minimum.  You just have to love the convenience of the extensive and affordable train system!

Namba District of Osaka

After checking into the hotel, we head to the Namba District to explore once again.  Osaka’s Namba district is a neon-lit tourist magnet just south of the Dotonbori Canal and its parallel street. Famous for extravagant signs and endless eateries, it traces back to 1612, when merchant Yasui Doton began a canal project—completed by his cousins in 1615 after his death in the Siege of Osaka, naming it in his honor.

A Food and Beer Tour in Namba

We signed up for a 3.5 -hour Food and Beer tour in Namba.  Luck is on our side as we are the only 3 people who signed up for tonight’s adventure!  Osaka’s food obsession shines in Namba, epitomized by “kuidaore”—spending extravagantly on cuisine.  We stop at 2 different places for food and drinks and it is WAY more than we can possibly consume.  We try various traditional Japanese beverages, soups, “eggrolls”, edamame, fried quail eggs, squid, beef and stir-fried noodles (to name a few).  Our third stop is at a Japanese Whiskey Bar – so it was more than just food and beer!

Day 6 – Himeji

Himeji City

After another pleasant 1.5-hour train ride (from Osaka to Himeji) – we arrive for our day trip to this wonderful city.

Itatehyōzu and Iwa Shrine

Dedicated to the Sakai family, feudal lords of Himeji Castle, this shrine honors their legacy in the city’s history.  The Itatehyozu Shrine follows a distinct cycle for its two principal rites. The Single Mountain Rite is performed once every sixty years.  One month before the festival, a new shrine is placed on the mountain top and a white flag is raised. The festival includes worshipping three mountains from afar. These are Mt. Takahata, Mt. Hanasaki, and Mt. Shirakura. A sacred palanquin is also carried to the river valley.  The Three Mountains Rite takes place every twenty years.  For the week-long event, a bamboo and cloth mountain is built. It is fifteen meters high. It is placed at the shrine’s entrance and a small shrine is put on top of this. Food offerings are made.
The Iwa Shrine holds the same two rites, however it reserves their cycles.  At Iwa Shrine, the Single Mountain Rite takes place every twenty years and the Three Mountains Rite takes place every sixty years.

Himeji Castle

The main attraction in Himeji is the “White Heron Castle,” also known as Himeji Castle.  It is Japan’s best-preserved feudal fortress, a national treasure, and UNESCO World Heritage site. Its elegant white exterior towers over the city.  Comprised of a network of 83 rooms, it dates back to 1333 when Akamatsu Norimura built a fort on top of Himeyama hill. The fort was dismantled and rebuilt as Himeyama Castle in 1346 and then remodeled into Himeji Castle two centuries later.  In the 1500’s and 1600’s, there were several renovations and additions.  For almost 700 years, Himeji Castle has remained intact, even throughout the bombing of Himeji in World War II, and natural disasters including the 1995 Great Hanshin earthquake.  Himeji Castle is the largest and most visited castle in Japan, and it was registered in 1993 as one of the first UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the country.

Kokoen Garden

Adjacent to Himeji Castle, Kokoen Garden offers a peaceful Japanese landscape with ponds, waterfalls, and tea houses—a serene complement to the castle’s grandeur.

Late Lunch in Himeji

Something we haven’t yet mentioned is the affordability of food in Japan.  The three of us could typically eat for around $35-$45 – including a few beers.  And the portions aren’t outrageous as they typically are in the US (hence one reason why there are so few overweight people in Japan).  There is a lot of fried food, but there’s also plenty of non-fried dishes to choose from and lots of healthy choices.

Day 7 -Kyoto & Nara

Once again, we’ve booked a small-group tour that includes transportation with a private guide.  There are 9 of us on this tour.  We travel from Osaka to Kyoto, then Kyoto to Nara, then back to our hotel in Osaka.

Kyoto – Fushimi Inari Taisha

Kyoto is well-known for the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine.  A vital Shinto shrine, Fushimi Inari Taisha honors Inari, the deity of rice and prosperity. Its thousands of bright orange (vermillion) torii gates form a striking tunnel-like path up Mount Inari.  The trail is dotted with fox statues—Inari’s messengers—often holding keys to rice granaries.  Its origin pre-dates the capital’s move to Kyoto in 794.   This place is a common location for pilgrimages to cleanse the soul.  At the shrine’s entrance stands the Romon Gate.  Behind it stands the shrine’s main hall where visitors are encouraged to pay respect to the deity by making a small offering.  At the back of the shrine’s main grounds is the entrance to the torii gate covered hiking trail which starts with two dense parallel rows of gates called Senbon Torii (thousands of torii gate).  The hike to the summit and back takes approximately 2-3 hours.  Along the way there are multiple smaller shrines with stacks of miniature torii gates.  This is as far as we venture (tour time constraint).   After another 30-45 minutes of hiking, there is a decrease in the density of torii gates and shrines.  Eventually you could reach the Yotsusuji Intersection, roughly half-way up the mountain where you are treated to nice views over Kyoto – and the trail then splits into a loop to the summit.

Gion District Kyoto

Kyoto’s Gion, spanning the Kamo River, is the city’s famed geisha quarter. Cobblestone streets, wooden machiya houses, and glowing lanterns preserve its historic elegance, a testament to Japan’s cultural heritage.  Gion received no damage during WWII, so it most resembles what a village looked like pre-war.

Nara Park

Nara Park is a 1600-acre park, established in 1880 and is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for 1,200 free-roaming sika deer and world-famous temples.  The deer are considered messengers of the gods and are protected by locals.  Visitors can purchase “cookies” to feed the tame deer.   You show them the cookie and bow – and they will bow (then you feed them).  Nara Park is also home to Todai-ji Temple, the Nara National Museum and the Isuien Garden.   It is a very popular tourist destination.

Todai-ji Temple – Buddha Hall

Within Nara Park, Todai-ji Temple’s Great Buddha Hall—the world’s largest wooden building—houses a colossal Buddha statue, a majestic icon of Japanese heritage.  Note that all the other shrine’s we’ve visited so far are Shinto – this is the only Buddhist shrine we will visit (officially it’s a temple, not a shrine).  Shinto is the indigenous religion while Buddhism was imported from China in the 6th century.    Shintoism is the spirituality of this world and this life, whereas Buddhism is concerned with the soul and the afterlife.  Many Japanese practice both religions.

Day 8  – Hiroshima

Bullet Train

The bullet train from Osaka to Hiroshima offers a swift, scenic journey to this historic city, blending modern travel with poignant destinations.  The trip by train takes as little as 1.5 hours compared to the 4 hours it would take to drive that route.

Hiroshima – Okonomiyaki Grill Lunch

We’ve booked a private 4-hour tour today and asked our guide ahead of time for a lunch suggestion.  She makes an excellent suggestion to try a regional style of cooking called okonomiyaki at a place where she will meet us to start the tour.  We have a little trouble locating the restaurant – and end up asking someone in the lobby of the 8-story building – lots of signage, but not enough English to find the place.  We are instructed to head to the 6th floor.  As we exit the elevator, we see a series of several small places that quite honestly, look a little “sketch”.  We duck into the first place on the left behind clear plastic “walls” because we see 3 seats together at the “bar”.   The place only has 10 seats, and you sit around the grill, somewhat similar to a Japanese Steakhouse in the US.  The chef starts with a layer of batter – then cabbage & noodles, and toppings like pork, chicken or shrimp on a sizzling teppan. Each meal is topped with Otafuku sauce, mayo, and bonito flakes. This soulful dish—born from post-war recovery—is savored hot off the grill.  It was remarkably delicious (and unique).

Hiroshima Museum

We meet our guide and begin walking through the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park to the Hiroshima Museum (est. 1955) with focus around the atomic bombing of August 6, 1945. The East Building covers pre-bomb Hiroshima, while the West Building displays artifacts like charred clothing and survivor testimonies, urging peace.  It is a somber experience to read the numerous stories and to see photos of burned and radiated bodies.
There is little to no information as to WHY the US bombed Japan.  Our guide later tells us the context was not taught and wasn’t until about 10 years ago, when bans were lifted on “western” movies portraying WWII, that she and others had any idea of the context.

Hiroshima Monument

The Atomic Bomb Dome, once the Industrial Promotion Hall (1915), the building with its iconic dome survived the 1945 blast near Ground Zero. Its ruined shell, a UNESCO site, stands as a stark reminder of the bomb’s toll and a call for nuclear abolition.  The target of the bombing was the “T” bridge because it was easy to spot from the air.

Hiroshima Ground Zero Marker

The target of the bombing was the “T” bridge because it was easy to spot from the air.  They “missed” the Aioi Bridge by 550 feet.  The bomb detonated 1968 feet above the city and exploded with the force of more than 15,000 tons of TNT, reaching temperatures up to 12,600 degrees Fahrenheit (hotter than the sun).  The blast destroyed everything within a mile of the center of the explosion and vaporized people half a mile away from ground zero.  The bomb was dropped on Hiroshima because it was a large urban area that also held military significant facilities.  The bomb reduced 5 square miles to ashes and caused the deaths of an estimated 120,000 people withing the first four days following the blast.  The blast was heard as far as 15 miles away and its mushroom cloud was visible over 100 miles away.  Nearly all the induced radioactivity decayed within a few days.

Hiroshima Ground Zero Survivor

Next we went to a place we most likely would never have known about, had it not been for a guide. Akiko Takakura, a 20-year-old bank clerk, was 980 feet from the hypocenter when the bomb struck. She happened to go into the basement’s safe to look for some paperwork when the bomb exploded.  Shielded in her bank’s basement and safe, she survived with over 100 wounds, emerging into a devastated city. After witnessing unimaginable horrors, she became a hibakusha (atomic bomb survivor) advocate, sharing her story until her death in 2009.

Hiroshima Castle

Hiroshima Castle, sometimes called Carp Castle, was originally constructed in the 1590s as the residence of the feudal lord.  In the late 1800’s, the castle came to serve as a military facility, and the Imperial General Headquarters was based there during the First Sino-Japanese War in 1894–1895.  During the final months of WWII, the castle served as the headquarters of the 2nd General Army and Fifth Division, stationed there to deter the projected Allied invasion of the Japanese mainland.  The Castle was largely destroyed by the atomic bombing on August 6, 1945. The main keep was rebuilt in 1958, a replica of the original that now serves as a museum of Hiroshima’s history.

Within the castle walls, three trees survived the atomic bombing: a eucalyptus and a willow at approximately 2500 feet from the hypocenter, and a holly approximately 3000 feet from the hypocenter.

Shukkeien Gardens

Our final stop of the tour includes a walk through  Shukkeien Gardens.  Located in the center of Hiroshima City, the lush green garden, makes you forget the hustle and bustle of the city.  Created around 1620, the gardens have been modified over the years.  There are winding paths along beautiful flowers and ponds filled with koi.  Despite the cold winter temperatures, blooming peonies dot the landscape.  Upon close inspection, they are all potted and placed in the ground with a 3-sided structure around it to help protect it from the chill.  We suspect these are taken out each cold night and put back in place each day. There is a stone bridge in the middle of the garden that survived  intact the dropping of the bomb.

Dinner back in Osaka

We’ve been walking around in the cold all day and after a warm train ride back, we wonder how much energy we have to head into Namba to find a place for dinner.  As we walk through the train station, we realize it has multiple grocery stores and food shops in the underground maze of shops.  We purchase some cheese at one shop, some dried meats at another, some fresh bread at a third and some beer and wine at yet another.  They package all our purchases with little flexible ice packs.  We head back to hotel and enjoy a little picnic in our room.

Day 9 – Leaving Japan

We have a 3-hour train ride from Osaka Station back to Tokyo station, then another 1.5-hour ride from the Tokyo station to Narita airport.   Our son’s flight is 3 hours before ours, but we decide to all travel together to the airport and then just hang out there until our later departure.  interestingly, though our flight from Hawaii to Japan was 9 hours and 45 minutes, the return flight is only 6 hours and 45 minutes (thanks to trade winds).  Also, we will cross the international dateline so we depart Japan at 7:55pm on Friday and will arrive in Hawaii at 7:40am – also on Friday.  Time travel!

Summary

We are very grateful our son invited us to explore Japan with him.  We aren’t sure we would have gone there without this opportunity and that would have been a HUGE mistake.  Japan is not only full of rich culture and history, but it is generally inexpensive, easy to navigate with their extensive and affordable rail system, safe, very friendly to English speaking tourists and credit card friendly (little need for the local currency).  While we did explore a significant portion of the country, there’s always the possibility we’ll return again someday.