Overview
This post covers the Romanian portion our 9 country 35-day adventure across Europe. This included a trip to Transylvania in Romania, a 23-day Viking River cruise across Europe from Bucharest to Amsterdam and then a trip that we arranged after the cruise to both Belgium and The Netherlands.
An overview of this trip can be found at A European Sojourn with links to the other segments of the trip listed below in the summary.
Day 1 – Bucharest
Bucharest Airport
Its been a long day of flying: our first longer flight from home to Amsterdam, then a mere 3-hour flight from Amsterdam to Bucharest. We are surprised how easily we skate through customs – basically just walking through a door that says “nothing to declare” overhead. Our bags greet us with one tiny issue – the nametags came off one of our bags. We start looking for the Viking representatives and they are easy to spot with their red Viking sign. Two other couples are with them and we chat for about 20 minutes while waiting for one more couple.
Bucharest Airport to JW Marriott
JW Marriott Bucharest
The Viking folks have their own check-in desk at this gloriously adorned hotel. We learn there are 4 different sets of Viking cruises using the hotel with 2 about to start and 2 just ending.
The Walk to Old Town Bucharest
We are hungry but don’t want to eat at the hotel. We decide to walk to Old Town Bucharest, just over a one-mile easy walk from the hotel. The area is clean and feels safe (very comforting) and is a beautiful place to visit. The architecture is wonderful, and there are many old buildings to see and lots of shops and restaurants.
We have a guided tour of Old Town Bucharest on our itinerary in a few days when we return from our pre-excursion trip through Transylvania, so we are just getting a little head start on the sights.
Dinner in Old Town Bucharest
We walk around looking for a restaurant with outdoor seating so we can do some people watching. We find The Kilkenny Irish Pub where we order a local appetizer called samale (dried meat). After that experience, we walk around some more and stop at the Garden Pub to enjoy a hot pork dish that is delightful. Before dark we head back to the hotel to rest up for the upcoming road trip.
Day 2 – Romanian Road Trip
And so begins our pre-excursion trip to explore Transylvania. There are about 20 of us from our cruise and we all board a wonderful bus with large windows to enjoy the rolling countryside.
Bucharest to Ploișeti
On the way out of town we pass the City Gate Towers which serve as a gateway to the city. Completed in 2009, they represent modern architecture, with a sleek design featuring glass and steel. These towers are mainly used for office spaces but have become an architectural symbol of Bucharest’s development in the 21st century.
Radio Romania International, Commie Condos and the Oil Industry
Radio Romania International (RRI) is the international broadcasting service of Romania. It aims to provide news, cultural programs, and information about Romania to listeners around the world. RRI broadcasts in multiple languages, including English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, and more, making it accessible to a diverse global audience
The Petrobrazi refinery bombing was part of a larger operation known as Operation Tidal Wave during World War II. This operation took place on August 1, 1943, and was a strategic bombing mission by the United States Army Air Forces (USAAF) targeting oil refineries in Ploiești, Romania.
The goal was to cripple the Axis powers’ fuel supply by destroying these critical refineries. The mission involved 177 B-24 Liberator bombers, but it faced heavy anti-aircraft defenses and resulted in significant losses for the USAAF.
On to Peleș Castle
We pass the monument to Aurel Vlaicu which is a tribute to one of Romania’s pioneering aviators and inventors. Aurel Vlaicu was a Romanian engineer, inventor, and early pilot who made significant contributions to aviation in the early 20th century. It’s located near where Vlaicu tragically crashed his plane in 1913
Breaktime near Cornu Romania
Our bus makes a 30-minute stop at a unique (to us) travel station – complete with gasoline, beautiful restrooms, a shop with all sorts of items (think something between a 7-11 and a Walmart in terms of items they carry). There is also a UFO shaped pizza place.
Peleș Castle and Sinaia
Sinaia is a beautiful mountain resort town that’s known for historical landmarks such as Peleș Castle, Pelissier Castle, Sanaia Monastery and the Sinaia Casino. We are headed here to explore Peleș Castle and afterwards to find a place to have lunch.
Peleș Castle
Peleș Castle was commissioned by King Carol I of Romania in 1873. The King fell in love with the magnificent mountain scenery during his first visit to the area in 1866. He envisioned a grand summer residence and hunting lodge that would reflect the elegance and grandeur of European palaces.
The construction of the castle began in 1873 and was completed in 1914. Peleș Castle served as the summer residence of the Romanian royal family until 1947, when King Michael I was forced to abdicate by the Communist regime. Today, Peleș Castle is one of Romania’s most visited landmarks
Lunch in Sinaia
The temperature is a bit cold and there’s a light rain falling that deters us from walking around a lot. We quickly find a place to eat that has covered outdoor seating and get a table near a heater that helps make it tolerable. We notice another couple from the bus has chosen this restaurant and we decide to sit together so we can start to make friends with our fellow travelers. We meet Donna and Rick from Rhode Island and learn they’ve been on several Viking Cruises. We order a delicious traditional soup as well as a chicken dinner – then splurge on a local dessert called papanași. Our waiter described it as an inside-out jelly cheese donut drizzled with crème fraîche – which was a very accurate description. And wow – what a tingle on the tastebuds!
Sinaia to Brașov
It’s overcast and a bit rainy as we continue through the mountains to Brașov but it’s a scenic drive and we get a flavor for this part of Romania.
Radisson Blu, Brașov
When we arrive in Brașov we are checked into the Radison Blu in Brașov where we will sleep the next couple nights. It’s a pretty nice place although the decorations are a bit eclectic for our tastes.
Brașov
It’s raining slightly when we get to Brașov, but we still manage to get a little hour walking tour of the town square which is really pretty. If the weather had been nicer, it would have been great to have eaten dinner outside at one of the cafes, but we search around a bit and finally take our guide up on one of his suggestions for a cozy indoor dining experience. By the time we finish dinner it’s dark out and we head back to the hotel to rest up and get ready for the next days adventure.
Day 3 – Romanian Road Trip (continued)
Prejmer Fortified Church
After breakfast we are up and out on our journey north with our first stop of the day being the Prejmer Fortified Church.
This is a Lutheran church that was founded by German Teutonic Knights in the early 1200’s. The surrounding village in the area was destroyed over 50 times between the 13th and 17th centuries and as a result, the church that was a part of the village was ordered to fortified. Defensive walls surrounding the church are up to 16 feet thick and about 40 feet in height. The interior side of the walls have over 270 rooms that could shelter over 1,600 villagers in case of attack.
Prejmer was restored to its original form following a restoration between 1960 and 1970. We got a tour telling us about the history of the church and at the end we had free time to wander around the interior of the fort with a number of the rooms decorated with period furniture or equipment depending on the type of trade being represented. This was a great historical site visit.
After our tour we are back on the road and continue our journey north to our final destination: Sighisoara.
Rupea Citadel
Near the town of Rupea we get a glimpse of the Rupea Citadel which is one oldest archaeological sites in Romania, with evidence of human settlements dating back to the Paleolithic and Early Neolithic periods (5500-3500 BC). The fortress itself was built by Transylvanian Saxons in the 13th century and was first mentioned in a document from 1324 under the name “castrum Kuholm”. It is open to the public and the next time we are in this area it would something we’d like to visit.
Viscri
Our next stop is Viscri which is known for its well-preserved Saxon heritage and picturesque landscapes, Viscri gained international fame thanks to Prince Charles, who fell in love with the village during his visits to Romania. He purchased a house in Viscri and has been actively involved in preserving its cultural heritage. His efforts have helped boost tourism and bring attention to the village’s unique charm.
The Blacksmith of Viscri
We met Istvan, who represents the seventh generation of blacksmiths in his family. He uses traditional blacksmithing techniques passed down through generations. We see him heating metal in the forge, shaping it with a hammer, and creating everything from horseshoes to intricate decorative pieces. He also specializes in creating iron pieces for restoration projects such as locks and nails for the many ancient structures under renovation in Europe. He told us he currently he has an order for over 4,000 antique nails.
King Charles House in Viscri
King Charles III’s house in Viscri, Romania, is a charming traditional Saxon property that has become a significant cultural landmark. The house is part of a UNESCO World Heritage site and reflects the rich heritage and history of the region. King Charles III, first visited Romania in 1998 and was captivated by the beauty and tranquility of the Transylvanian countryside. In 2006, he purchased his first house in Viscri for £12,000. This house, known as the “Blue House” (due to its distinctive blue facade), was carefully restored using traditional methods and materials.
We toured the house and grounds including where King Charles’ bedroom he used when visiting this place. They tell us he no longer stays here as he has another house in the area.
Viscri to Sighișoara
Near the village of Saschiz, we see the Saschiz castle up on a hill overlooking the village which is yet another fortress built by Transylvanian Saxons in the 14th century. The road we are traveling on rolls through a number of small villages and farms and the scenery is really nice.
Sighișoara
Closed Factories and Commie Condos
As we approach the outskirts of Sighișoara our tour guide, Lorin, tells us many stories about the recent times in Romania. We are reminded the country was ruled by the Communist Party until December of 1989, when the people forced their leader out. He further tells us of housing built by the Communists that are bland, basic and all “look alike” – now referred to as “Commie Condos” by the Romanians. It is quite clear that current Romanians have a strong negative remembrance of when their country was under Communist rule. We pass a number of closed and deteriorating factories from the communist era where the goods they produced where only sold to eastern bloc communist countries.
Sighișoara Fortress
We arrive at the foot of the fortress which is high up on a hill overlooking the town below. We are given the option to take a ‘shuttle train’ or walk and since we fell like stretching our legs, we head up the hill to the gate entrance of the fortress.
Sighișoara fortress is a world heritage site and one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns. It’s full of cobblestone streets, colorful houses, and historic landmarks. It was founded by Transylvanian Saxons in the 12th century. The fortress originally had 15 defense towers, each maintained by a different guild.
The Clock Tower
Standing tall at 64 meters, the Clock Tower is the fortress’s most iconic structure. The Clock Tower was originally built in the 14th century as a simple gate tower but over time they added a clock mechanism with wooden figurines that emerge to mark the hours.
Vlad Dracul House
The Vlad Dracul House, located near the clock tower is a significant historical landmark. This house is reputed to be the birthplace of Vlad the Impaler, also known as Vlad Dracula, the historical figure who inspired Bram Stoker’s famous novel “Dracula.” The house is one of the oldest buildings in Sighișoara, featuring a 14th-century Gothic core. It has been well-preserved and now serves as a museum and restaurant, offering visitors a glimpse into the medieval past. We enjoy a great lunch consisting of soup, goulash & polenta and gelato for dessert.
Colorful Houses
Many of these houses date back to the 16th century and have been beautifully preserved, and offer a glimpse into the architectural styles of the past.
Sighișoara Views from the Fortress
We walk around the parameter of the walls and get a great view of the town down below. After a few hours it’s time for us to journey back to Brașov. It rains most of the way back and it is getting dark so there is much of picture taking opportunity on the way back to the hotel.
Dinner
It’s still raining when we get back and we decide to just hang out the hotel in the evening where we enjoy a beautifully prepared (and delicious) steak tartare meal and afterwards head to bed.
Day 4 – Romanian Road Trip (continued)
Brașov Morning Walk
We are always early birds and so after breakfast in the morning there is time for a walk around Brașov to explore. There is a rather large public park near the hotel where we find a section that has a memorial to the victims of the revolution that occurred when the communist where overthrown. There is also a line of impressive 19th century mansions within the park and several grand public buildings.
Brașov to Bran Castle
Shortly after the walk is completed it’s time to board the bus and head out to our first stop of the day: Bran Castle. This takes us again out into the Romanian countryside before we enter the town of Bran.
Bran Castle
We’re both huge vampire fans, starting from a young age when we both watched this 1970’s soap opera called Dark Shadows that centered around the vampire Barnabas Collins. We are so excited to visit Bran Castle. This national monument and landmark castle is known outside Transylvania as Dracula’s Castle and is marketed as the home of the title character in Bram Stoker’s Dracula. There is no evidence that Stoker knew anything about this castle, which has only minor associations with Vlad the Impaler, who shares his name with Dracula. Vlad the Impaler’s father was known as Vlad the Dragon. The name Dracula has its origins as the slavonic form of Dracul, meaning “the son of the Dragon”. Vlad the Impaler is well known for his favorite method of execution – and we will spare you the disgusting details as it is much more complex than “just impaling”. During his rule, Vlad the Impaler is estimated to have killed tens of thousands of people, although the exact number remains unknown.
Bran
The town of Bran sits at the foot of the Castle and is pretty nice. It definitely is geared to service the tourist industry centered on the castle. There are lots of vendor booths where you can buy all sorts of “Dracula” related arts and crafts and well as lots of other more traditional crafts and goods. We look around the shops and stands for a bit after our tour and then go on a search for lunch.
Lunch in Bran
We end up at a little place down the street from all of the vendors that turns out to be very good. Shortly after finishing lunch, it’s time to head out on the road again.
Bran Back to Bucharest
It takes a couple hours to recross the mountains and it’s a fairly dreary day outside. As we clear the mountains on our way back to Bucharest, the rain stops, and the sun comes out.
Rest Break
It’s not long before it’s time to make a roadside stop at a high-end gas station, which has a bathroom, deli, and miscellaneous items for sale. Before long we are back on the road and arrive back at the JW Marriot in Bucharest.
Dinner in Old Town Bucharest
It’s early evening when we get back to the JW Marriott for the night and we decide to head back down to Old Town Bucharest. We are craving Romanian pizza and find a nice little place to order what turns out to be a really nice meal. We explore a little bit more of the downtown section and stop at another place to share some Romanian style mozzarella sticks. We then head back to the hotel before dark as we have a full day tomorrow and are a little tired.
Day 5 – Romania
We have a full day planned for our last day in Romania with a tour of some of the major monuments, a stop at the Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum, a walking tour of Old Town Bucharest and then a 90-minute road trip south to finally board the Viking Lofn which will be our home for the next 23 days. And so, we started our first official tour for our Viking River cruise – with a Panoramic Tour of Bucharest.
Monuments and Sites
The People’s Salvation Cathedral
It is the tallest and largest Eastern Orthodox church building by volume, and area, in the world. Building began in 2010, and after almost a decade of construction, the cathedral was consecrated on 25 November 2018.
Palace of the Parliament
The Palace of Parliament, also known as the House of the People, is the largest administrative building in the world and the most iconic landmark of Bucharest. This massive structure was built during the communist era and reflects the socialist modernism architecture of that period. Today, it is home to the Romanian Parliament and houses numerous conference rooms, exhibition halls, and offices.
Revolution Square
We visited revolution square which has a number of interesting buildings and monuments.
- The Romanian Athenaeum is a concert hall which opened in 1888. It is an ornate, domed, circular building and is the city’s most prestigious concert hall.
- The Royal Palace, was erected between 1936 and 1937 under the direct supervision of Queen Marie and her son, King Carol II. It now houses the National Museum of Art.
- Central University Library was completed in 1893. To the right of the library is a tall white obelisk with what looks like a birds nest. It is the Memorial of Rebirth, dedicated to the overthrow of communism in 1989.
- Kretzulescu Church built in 1722 and located right across the street from these other buildings.
National Museum of the Village “Dimitrie Gusti”
Our next stop is an outdoor museum created in 1936 consisting of 123 authentic peasant settlements, 363 monuments and over 50,000 artefacts from around Romania – all moved to this location. We spent a couple hours wandering around this fairly large collection.
Walking Tour of Old Town
While we’ve spent 2 previous late afternoons walking the Old Town area and having dinner, we now get a narrated tour to learn more about the history, architecture and buildings.
Lunch
Our tour includes lunch at the well-known restaurant Hanul lui Manuc. Built in 1808, the enormous, three-story restaurant at Manuc’s Inn includes a beautiful interior garden and a grand staircase.
Road to Viking Lofn
With a late lunch complete it’s time to take a 90-minute road trip down to the Danube River where the Viking Loft is waiting on us.
Our Longship – Viking Lofn
We reach the dock in the little town of Giurgiu, board the ship and the check in process is quick and seamless. Within just a couple minutes we are in our room and start to unpack and get familiar with our room and ship that will be our home for the next 23 days.
Summary
We had no real expectations for Romania and were pleasantly surprised how much we loved it. Bucharest is a gorgeous historic city that has kept with modern times while still preserving the character of its rich history. We also appreciated the rolling hills and countryside beyond the city. And we definitely appreciated the people’s love and pride of the country. On adventure now continues in Bulgaria.
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