Overview
This post covers the German portion our 9 country 35-day adventure across Europe and picks up the adventure as we leave Austria. This included a trip to Transylvania in Romania, a 23-day Viking River cruise across Europe from Bucharest to Amsterdam and then a trip that we arranged after the cruise to both Belgium and The Netherlands.
An overview of this trip can be found at A European Sojourn with links to the other segments of the trip listed below in the summary.
Day 1 – Regensburg
We will start with a quick lesson about the naming of German towns. Any town ending with “burg” indicates a historical significance, referring to fortified towns and castles, associated with defense and security. Any town ending with “berg” is geological and refers to natural, elevated landforms, such as mountains or large hills.
Regensburg sits at the confluence of the Danube, Naab and Regen rivers and is Danube’s northernmost point. Regensburg is the fourth-largest city in the State of Bavaria after Munich, Nuremberg and Augsburg and the 8th largest of all cities on the Danube river. From its foundation as an imperial Roman river fort, the city has been the political, economic and cultural center of the surrounding region. The medieval center of the city was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006 because of its well-preserved architecture, being the biggest medieval city site north of the Alps.
Old Stone Bridge
The Stone Bridge (Steinerne Brücke) is a 12th-century bridge across the Danube linking the Old Town with Stadtamhof. For more than 800 years, until the 1930s, it was the city’s only bridge across the river. Charlemagne had a wooden bridge built at Regensburg, approximately 100 meters east of the present bridge, but it was inadequate for the traffic and vulnerable to floods, so it was decided to replace the wooden bridge with a stone bridge. It was built in only eleven years, probably in 1135–46 and served as a model for other stone bridges built in Europe in the 12th and 13th centuries. At the highest point of the bridge is a stone carving called the Bruckmandl (bridge mannikin), a largely naked young man shielding his eyes with one hand. He symbolizez the city’s freedoms and its emancipation from the control of the Bishop.
Regensburg Walking Tour
Our 2-hour tour this morning is called “Historic Regensburg & Jewish Heritage”. We have a fabulous guide with Jewish heritage. She even shares family stories from her grandfather who was negatively impacted during World War II. Below are some general scenes from the streets of Regensburg with its colorful buildings and beautiful fountains.
Porta Praetoria
Porta Praetoria is Germany’s oldest surviving stone structure dating back to 2nd century Rome. It was built by Emperor Marcus Aurelius in AD 179 as part of the Castra Regina fortress. The gate’s massive stones have been incorporated into the current buildings but recent work has allowed the original remaining stones to be easily demarcated from the more modern buildings. Note the third photo is a conception drawing of what it originally looked like – two round turrets with 2 gates between. The first two photos shows what remains today – the left turret and right gate.
Altes Rathaus (aka The Old Town Hall)
We reach Town Hall Square and are treated to three buildings that are part of the medieval Old Town Hall. The three buildings (built at different times) can be distinguished as follows: in the south, the Imperial Hall Building with a bay window, followed by the Portal Building with a grand staircase and gate passage, and to the east of the passage, the oldest Town Hall building in the style of a patrician house with the 55 meter tall Town Hall tower.
Stumbling Stones
Our guide points out several square brass engraved plates nestled among some of the cobblestones. Each stone is just 10cm x 10cm most commonly laid outside the entrance of the last residence of victims of the Nazi regime. The same wording is used on almost every stone. At the top, they read “Hier wohnte” (here lived), followed by the name of the victim and their birth date. This is followed by the date the victim was arrested or deported, sometimes an exact date, sometimes only a year, and where they were held prisoner. The last line reads one of three words: “ermordet” (murdered), “befreit” (liberated) or “überlebt” (survived). In many cases, a number of stones are laid alongside each other, where a whole family has been memorialized.
In total, there are over 100.000 brass-plated stumbling stones throughout Europe.
Goliathhaus
Goliathstrasse (Goliath street) is dominated by the Goliathhaus with its monumental mural depicting the scene “David versus Goliath”. It it directly in front of us as we make our way from the old stone bridge into the old town. The Goliathhaus was built in 1260 as a patrician city castle with pinnacles. The mural was made in 1573 by Melchior Blocksberger.
Saint Peter’s Cathedral
Our last stop on the tour is at Saint Peters Cathedral, an example of important Gothic architecture within the German state of Bavaria. We’re halfway through the cruise and we’re already getting a little tired of all these ornate churches. The saying on the cruise is – ABC – Another Bloody Church!
Hofbräuhaus Tavern Lunch
With the tour over, it is time for lunch. We do some quick internet research looking for a German lunch experience – and Hofbräuhaus meets our requirements. The Hofbräuhaus is considered an “institution” and is one of the most beautiful historic inns in this area. Bavarian specialties and the Munich Hofbräu beer are the Schafbauer family’s recipe for success. The tavern has been one of the city’s most traditional taverns for over three decades. Regionality & freshness are the basis for the homemade dishes. HB, two letters topped by a crown – is the logo for the Hofbräu-Munich brewery. We order a sample with three different types of bratwurst, 2 pretzels, robust sauerkraut and 2 different mustards. We also enjoy the HM beer and definitely appreciate the historic interior.
Museum of Bavarian History
The history of Bavaria is a long, long story. That’s why Regensburg’s new Museum of Bavarian History focuses “only” on the last two hundred years. Bavarian emigration to the U.S. was greatest between about 1850 and 1930, and the new museum helps visitors to understand why. It shows how hard times were—but also showcases new technologies, new opportunities, and a new spirit of adventure that motivated Bavarians to seek their fortune far from home. The permanent exhibition takes visitors through nine clearly dated and named “generations”, often showing history from a personal perspective on the basis of memorabilia collected from the general population.
Rothensburg to Kelheim
Late in the evening we catch the Viking bus back to the ship now anchored and waiting for us in Kelheim (a 30-minute drive from Rothenburg). It gives us yet another chance to see some of the German countryside in this area. Near the ship we see a really large memorial high up on one of the hills and we learn it is the Hall of Liberation. This monument commemorates the victories over Napoleon during the Wars of Liberation (1813-1815). It would have been interesting to have visited it, but it was not part of this trip.
Day 2 – Nuremberg
A Really High Lock
We spend the early morning sailing and as previously mentioned, we go through a total of 66 locks on the trip. We go through most of them at night while we’re sleeping (at least 40?), but this particular lock caught our attention because of the height of the lock we learn is almost 90 feet.
Nuremburg Through History Walking Tour
Nuremberg is the largest city in Franconia and the second-largest city in the German state of Bavaria.
Nazi Party Rally Grounds
Nuremburg is one of the German towns that comes to mind when remembering the Nazi’s and World War II. On 30 August 1933, Hitler declared Nuremberg the “City of the Reich Party Congresses”. In a propagandistic way a relation was drawn between the Nazi movement and the glory of the medieval emperors and the meetings of the Imperial Estates which had been held in Nuremberg in the Middle Ages. The Nazi Party Rally Grounds covered about 4.25 square miles and hosted six Nazi party rallies held between 1933 and 1938. The whole site is now a memorial maintained to commemorate the victims of Nazi repression.
Palace of Justice
Constructed from 1909 to 1916, the Palace of Justice houses the appellate court, the regional court, the local court and the public prosecutor’s office. The Nuremberg Trials Memorial is located on the top floor of the courthouse. The building was chosen as the location of the Nuremberg trials (1945–1949) for the main surviving German war criminals of World War II because it was almost undamaged, was large enough, and included a large prison complex. The choice of the city of Nuremberg was symbolic as the Nazi Party had held its large rallies in the city.
Old Granary
The Old Granary is a medieval granary, one of 11 such buildings used throughout Nuremberg to store grain for its citizens. Grain would be stored in the upper floor to be kept safe in the case of famine or siege. The attractively arranged windows on the gable provided adequate airflow to keep the grain free from mold. After 1572, this granary also began to see use a customhouse.
Ship of Fools
This monument represents a 15th-century book The Ship of Fools. The figures in the sculpture depict violence, technology and apathy.
Saint Lawrence Church
Saint Lawrence Church was finished in the 15th century. Initially, it was built as a Catholic church but became Protestant during the Reformation. Fortunately, most of its Catholic decorations survived this era despite the change. From the outside one admires the 260-foot-tall facade. St Lawrence’s entrance shows several biblical scenes, including the Passion, Jesus’ birth, the Massacre of the Innocents, Judgement Day and more.
Tanner’s Lane
Tanner’s Lane has the largest collection of traditional, half-timbered houses in Nuremberg. These homes are the type many people think of when thinking about this part of the world, and they’re what gives many Bavarian towns a fairy tale-like atmosphere. The name Tanner’s Lane is associated with the artisans who built the homes and is a testament to the wealth accrued by medieval leather makers. Interestingly, dark-red paint commonly seen on these houses is made from ox blood, which helped to prevent rot. Today, this enchanting road is mostly lined with cafes and bars.
Hauptmarkt (aka: Market Square)
Nuremberg’s Hauptmarkt, or Market Square, is the lively center of the city. Prior to the 13th century, Nuremberg actually consisted of two separate towns separated by the river. When the two towns merged, this became the new town center built by Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV.
Today, the Hauptmarkt is most notable for three things: Frauenkirche (a church where a Jewish Community once stood), its stunning fountain (Schöner Brunnen) and Nuremberg’s Christmas Market (in season – a farmer’s & craft market during the off-season) .
Hanging Bridge
The famous Nuremberg Hangman’s Bridge was built in 1595 when Nuremberg suffered severe damage from a flood. The previous bridge, built in 1457 and part of the city wall, was badly damaged. It was therefore replaced by the wooden bridge with bricks. The unusual name of the Hangman’s Footbridge comes from the neighboring tower, where the hangman of Nuremberg lived between the 16th and 19th centuries.
Holy Ghost Hospital
Holy Ghost Hospital was built in 1339 by one of Nuremberg’s wealthy citizens, Konrad Gross, to care for Nuremberg’s disabled, needy and ill. The section of the building spanning the river wasn’t built until the 16th century. This former hospital spans Nuremberg’s Pegnitz River creating a lovely view from the bridge.
Imperial Castle
The Imperial Castle has foundations from around 1,000 A.D. and was first documented as a royal estate of the Holy Roman Empire in 1050. Over time, due to Nuremberg’s strategic location on several important trading routes and because they were using it more frequently, the Holy Roman Emperors added to the castle complex to make it more befitting for royalty. The ruling elite also started to use the castle to host frequent Diets where they would meet to discuss the governance of the empire. The castle is easily identified by its red and white half-timbered construction.
Old Town Nuremburg
Below are a series of pictures capturing the beauty of Old Town Nuremburg.
Day 3 – Bamberg – Franconia Countryside
Bamberg Dock
We wake up the next day docked outside of the town of Bamberg where we are going to take a tour of the Franconia Countryside. This region in northern Bavaria Germany is known for its picturesque countryside, rich history, and cultural heritage. We are off and running right after breakfast with only a small group of 6 other people.
Schloss Seehof Palace
Schloss Seehof Palace was built between 1684 and 1695 as a summer residence and hunting lodge for Marquard Sebastian Schenk von Stauffenberg, the Prince-Bishop of Bamberg. The palace stands on a square plain. The four corner pavilions are topped by octagonal towers with prominent slate roof hoods topped with a pierced ball ornament. The facades are heavily segmented by large windows (with triangular gables on the ground floor and arches on the upper floor). Each row of windows is supported by a cornice.
The gardens at Schloss Seehof Palace were originally laid out in the early 18th century and although they are not nearly as extensive as they once were, they are still picturesque. The park features hornbeam hedges that are over 300 years old and groves of 250-year old linden trees. We tour the interior of the palace and have time to walk around most of the gardens.
Brauere Drei Fronen
Nearby in Memmelsdorf, we stop at Brauerei Drei Kronen, also known as Drei Kronen Brewery. The restaurant and brewery have a rich history dating back to 1308 and is one of the oldest breweries in the world. We get to sample several of their beers including the regions fairly unique “smoked” beer – described to us as a cross between a campfire and bacon. Nancy really liked the smoked beer. We are treated to really good Bavarian pretzels and a variety of mustards. We buy a few bottles of beer for use later on the sun deck (since Viking allows you to bring back and consume alcohol you purchase on shore).
Franconian Countryside
After finishing up at the brewery we head out exploring the surrounding countryside. We pass rivers, farms and small villages as we travel to our next destination: Wallfahrtskirche Maria Limbach.
Wallfahrtskirche Maria Limbach (White Church)
We stop at Wallfahrtskirche Maria Limbach located outside the small village of Limbac and look at its elaborate interior and beautiful cemetery. We learn a couple of interesting facts while we are here. First the church has a 3-year waiting list to be married. Second, people in Germany often get married twice – once in a civil service and then again in a church service. Third, when you are buried, you get to use the grave for 50 years and if your relatives don’t continue to pay a fee, they dig you up, move you and give (aka: rent) the grave site to someone else.
Zeil
Next we head to Zeil where we are going to catch up with the ship later in the afternoon. We walk around the town to get a few pictures and then we’re off to the nearby dock to reboard the ship.
Late Afternoon & Early Evening Cruising
When we get back to the ship and pull away from the dock, we meet up with our new friends Jo and Graham and watch the countryside go by as we sip a glass of wine from one of the bottles, we both bought back in Bulgaria.
Day 4 – Würzburg & Rothenburg
Early Morning Walk
We wake up docked in Würzburg and we are going to do another road trip, this time to the medieval town of Rothenburg. Our bus isn’t going to leave until 9:00 so Harrison takes the opportunity to walk the waterfront and head into town for a bit of early morning sightseeing. He heads to the Old Main Bridge, which is adorned with statues of saints and historical figures. It is a picturesque spot connecting the old town with the Marienberg Fortress on the opposite side of the river. After wandering around he heads back to the ship to catch the bus tour.
Rothenburg Road Trip
As our bus heads out of Würzburg we pass into the country through farmland and a number of small villages.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Rothenburg ob der Tauber means: Rothenburg on the Tauber (River). We arrive at Rothenburg and enter through one of the old main gates to reach the interior of the town. We had researched this and found it is rated a top-notch destination, and we find it doesn’t disappoint. This town is renowned for its well-preserved medieval architecture and the town’s layout and buildings have remained largely unchanged since the Middle Ages. This includes its intact city walls and towers where you can walk the parameter and enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding country. Rothenburg is one of only four towns in Germany that still have completely intact city walls.
Rothenburg held a special significance for Nazi ideologists. For them, it was the epitome of the German ‘Home Town’, representing all that was quintessentially German. Throughout the 1930s, the Nazi organization organized regular day trips to Rothenburg from all across the Reich. This initiative was staunchly supported by Rothenburg’s citizenry – many of whom were sympathetic to National Socialism – both for its perceived economic benefits and because Rothenburg was hailed as “the most German of German towns”. In October 1938, Rothenburg expelled its Jewish citizens, much to the approval of Nazis and their supporters across Germany.
In March 1945, during World War II, German soldiers were stationed in Rothenburg to defend it. On March 31, bombs were dropped over Rothenburg by 16 planes, killing 37 people and destroying around 275 houses (around 32% of all houses), six public buildings and damaging nine watchtowers and over 2,000 feet of the wall. Because incendiary bombs were used, most outer walls still stood after the attack. The US understood the historical significance and beauty of the town and decided not to use further artillery there. Six US soldiers marched to town to negotiate the surrender of Rothernburg. When stopped by a German soldier, Private Lichey, who spoke fluent German and served as the group’s translator, held up a white flag and explained, “We are representatives of our division commander. We bring you his offer to spare the city of Rothenburg from shelling and bombing if you agree not to defend it. We have been given three hours to get this message to you. If we haven’t returned to our lines by 1800 hours, the town will be bombed and shelled to the ground“. The local military commander gave up the town, ignoring the order of Hitler for all towns to fight to the end and thereby saved it from total destruction by artillery.
Post war, the walls and houses were repaired or rebuilt (with most outer walls still standing and used for rebuilding houses). Many of the rebuilt facades can now be distinguished from the surviving medieval structures as being plainer, reconstruction aiming not to replicate exactly what stood before, only to rebuild in the same style as the surviving buildings so new buildings would still fit into the overall aesthetics of the town. The older western section (from which the medieval town originated and contains most of the town’s historic monuments) did not suffer from the bombing. Thus, most of the buildings in the west and the south of Rothenburg still exist today in their original medieval or prewar state.
The town is so picturesque. It is filled with Christmas shops, waffle shop and souvenir shops. Our tour included a wonderful lunch in a local tavern. We really enjoyed our visit here and it goes onto our list of Highly Recommended places to visit in Germany.
Würzburg Residence
When we return from Rothenburg, it’s later afternoon before we get back to Würzburg but we still have time to visit the Würzburg Residence before it closes for the day. To our surprise, there are very few tourists here now (1 hour prior to closing) and we almost have the place to ourselves. This palace was originally built between 1729 and 1740 for a Bishop. The palace is famous for its stunning Baroque architecture, including the grand staircase, the Imperial Hall, and the Mirror Cabinet. The building was reportedly called the “largest parsonage in Europe” by Napoleon (with over 400 rooms). It was damaged heavily during the second world war but major parts of it have been restored to its former glory and there is a ton of visual candy to behold. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The interior contains the largest fresco in the world, created from 1750 to 1753 by Venetian painter Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. It spans approximately 625 feet by 100 feet. Known as “Apollo and the Four Continents”, the basic principle of the fresco is quite simple. In the center is Apollo, the sun rising behind him. Beside him are two women holding his symbols, a lyre and a torch. Two cherubs prepare his chariot. Scattered in the sky, we see figures representing the planets. For example, in the dark cloud below Apollo, we see Venus and Mars. There is also Mercury, Jupiter, and Saturn, as well as Diana, representing the moon. We are surprised to see a lot of Greek Mythology represented in the paintings and statues.
Then the four known continents at that time are each represented around the center.
- America is personified as a native American woman, dressed in traditional attire. She sits upon a huge alligator. In this composition, America, the New World, symbolizes everything that is still savage. Around her are native inhabitants preparing food outside the home, a clear sign of primitiveness for the then-noble Europeans.
- Africa is shown as a center of commerce. It is presented as a black woman wearing a turban, bringing together the traditions of Sub-Saharan and North Africa, according to Europeans of the time. Africa is sitting upon a camel in the center of a bustling marketplace. Meanwhile, a merchant offers her incense and textiles, symbols of the wealth of the continent. Near them, a monkey plays with the ostrich, an example of the exotic animals that make their home in Africa.
- Asia centers on the personification of Asia as a woman perched upon an elephant. The figures around her mark the continent as the cradle of the written word, science, and monarchy. Close to the feet of the elephant, we see a chained prisoner, showing the strategic importance of Asia. To her right, some figures sit around an obelisk. The figure with the yellow tunic is the allegory of the monarchy. Another holds a caduceus, perhaps representing medicine.
- Europe sits on a throne, resting her hand on a white bull, reminding us of her origins. Around her, we see allegorical figures of the arts, among them the painter himself and the architect of the building.
There’s even more amazing artwork incorporated into this place. This is honestly one of the most impressive artwork we’ve seen and highly recommend visiting the Würzburg Residence
Day 5 – Wertheim
Wertheim Old Town
After an evening of cruising, we find we are docked within walking distance to the town of Wertheim. Like Rothenburg or Ziel, the town center retains much of its medieval charm complete with narrow streets, half-timbered houses and historic buildings. We take a walking tour of the town for about 90 minutes and then we set off on our own exploring.
Wertheim Castle
One of the most prominent landmarks in Wertheim is the Wertheim Castle dating back to the 12th century. It’s a little bit of a hike up hill to reach the castle and to ascend the heights of the highest towers, but the views of the town, valley and river are well worth the effort. The castle is owned by the town and a significant portion of it has been restored. There is a restaurant with great views and the castle grounds themselves are used to host cultural events including concerts, festivals, and historical reenactments.
Scenic Sailing
We have to be back onboard by 1:00 to set off for a long stretch of sailing that lasts the rest of the day, all through the night and most of the next day as we head towards our next port of call in Koblenz.
Day 6 – Rhine Valley Castles and Koblenz
Rhine River Valley Castle Cruising
When we thought about a river cruise to Europe, this is the portion of the cruise that symbolized the trip to us. We are up bright and early and head out to the sun deck shortly after breakfast as we enter the 40-mile portion of the Rhine River where there will be more than 28 Castles along the river on both sides of the river. There’s been fog along the water but just as we approach the first of the castles, the fog lifts and the first of the castles appears. Viking provided us with a map of the river showing the castles’ locations as well as information about each. It seems around every bend in the river, a new castle appears in the distance. What a glorious visual experience!
Braubach Marksburg Castle
After a wonderful morning and early afternoon of castle watching, we dock in the small town of Braubach and head by bus to the Marksburg Castle. Originally built in 1117, it was constructed to protect the town of Braubach and to reinforce customs on the river. Unlike many other castles in the region, Marksburg Castle has never been destroyed or fallen into disrepair. It is currently preserved and maintained by the German Castles Association since 1900. The views high up on the ridge of the valley we great and the tour of the well-preserved interior of the castle was amazing.
Koblenz
After the Marksburg Castle tour we board the bus and take about a 30-minute drive to Koblenz where the ship has moved while we toured. There’s an aerial tram going up the mountain, over the river and back, but we decide to skip it. It’s getting dark in about an hour or so we have time to walk around the waterfront while it’s still light outside. We decide to eat dinner off-ship. We walk by a Greek restaurant and the mood for Greek food hits us as we spent last fall in Greece. We loved the Greek cuisine and are ready for a change from German cuisine. While we’ve enjoyed amazing schnitzel, sauerbraten, bratwurst, and other German sausages, spätzle and sauerkraut – we just need a change. The Poseidon doesn’t disappoint and even though the menu is in German and the waiter barely speaks English, we manage (with the help of Google Translate) and end up with a meal we will always remember as fantastic.
Day 7 – Cologne
Cologne Walking Tour
We awake the next morning to find we are along the water in the heart of Cologne. We have signed up for a 2-hour walking tour taking us to some of the historical sites within the city including the Cologne Cathedral. During the Second World War, Cologne was heavily destroyed and as such, the majority of the infrastructure was rebuilt after the war.
Cologne Cathedral
The construction of Cologne Cathedral began in 1248 and was designed in the Gothic style, inspired by French cathedrals. The project faced numerous interruptions and was not completed until 1880, over 600 years later. During the second world war, it endured significant damage and was hit by 14 aerial bombs but remarkably, it did not collapse. It is thought since the twin spires of the cathedral served as a navigational landmark for Allied bombers, this may have contributed to its survival. After the war, repairs to the cathedral were completed in 1956.
Hop On/Hop Off Bus
As we often do in large metro areas we visit we find a Hop-on/Hop-off bus service and take it to around the entire90-minute circuit to get a feel for the city.
Cologne Beer Culture
We make an entire circuit through Cologne but decide to get off near the Cathedral and look for a place to have lunch. Kölsch is the signature beer of Cologne. It is a clear, light, and crisp lager warmed with top-fermenting yeast and then conditioned at cold temperatures like a lager. Kölsch is the only beer in Germany having a special protected geographical status, similar to Champagne in France. We learned that visiting a traditional Kölsch brewery, or brauhaus, is a must-do in Cologne. Our tour guide made a recommendation for Brauhaus Sion so we end up with a great meal of Schnitzel along with a couple Kölsch beers. Fellow cruiser and solo traveler Terri joined us.
Joe Champ’s American Sports Bar
After lunch we had decided to visit the Schokoladenmuseum (Chocolate Museum) but we get there and there’s a huge line with lots of children. We decide to just head out to a different part of Cologne on the bus.
After a bit we decide to get off in a section of restaurants we spotted from the bus and start walking towards Joe Champ’s American Sports Bar which attracted our interest. We are curious as to what an American sports bar meant in Germany, and we were pleasantly surprised to see that it actually looked like the type of sports bars you see in America. They had things like NFL Ticket. We hang out for a beer and a snack and then head out for more adventuring,
Walk back to the Ship
Instead of taking the bus we decide to take a long slow walk back to where the ship is docked taking us through the heart of the Cologne Shopping district. We are surprised to find “Five Guys” and “Burger King” in the middle of all this. We’ve seen a lot of McDonald’s, Burger Kings and KFC’s throughout Europe, but this is our first Five Guys. After a full day of adventure, we reboard the ship as it is getting dark.
Summary
The Germany portion of our cruise was packed with adventure and sights, and definitely wetted our appetite for more. The Romantic Road, one of Germany’s more popular tourist routes, caught our eye in Rothenburg. The 285 mile road stretches from Würzburg to Füssen – definitely a future option. Going back and exploring the Rhine River district with all of the castles is yet another.
Although we will travel through the Netherlands and dock in Amsterdam. Our next blog will first focus on the Belgium portion of the trip before picking up again in our The Netherlands blog.
Leave a Reply