Overview
Day 13: From Prairie Towns to Mountain Chowder — A Scenic Sprint to Canmore
We rolled out of Medicine Hat around 8:00am, grabbed gas just up the street (at whatever $2.50/liter translates to in “ouch”), and were pleasantly surprised at how quickly we escaped the city. Staying on the south side definitely made for an easy exit. We aimed for what we thought would be a scenic route, but after about an hour and a half of prairie wandering, we decided to tighten up the day’s drive. That’s when Nancy found us a “detour” to the town of Fort Macleod.
A Mountie Museum & Pasta in a Prairie Town
Fort Macleod is home to The Fort Museum of the North West Mounted Police, an old Royal Canadian Mounted Police Fort, and we spent a good hour or so exploring the grounds. It was a solid slice of Canadian history. Afterward, we wandered into the charming downtown and stumbled upon a cozy little restaurant-lounge hybrid. The food? Surprisingly great. We ventured off our typical lunch fare and indulged in a plate of spaghetti and lasagna square. It was delicious and totally hit the spot. The place was very busy, especially as we were leaving and a teen sports team & parents showed up.
Into the Rockies (and the Crowds)
From there, we headed west—and that’s when the Rocky Mountains started to rise in the distance. We veered off The Trans-Canadian Highway to a well-known scenic drive through the Kananaskis region. The drive along Highway 22 through “K-Country” was absolutely stunning with some of the most beautiful scenery of Canadian Rocky Mountains. There were winding views and towering peaks sprinkled with sparkling lakes. At first, it felt like we had the road to ourselves. But then we hit a gas station packed with hundreds of motorcyclists, like a mini-Sturgis rally. That should’ve been our clue.
As we got closer to Canmore, it seemed like all of Calgary had decided to head for the hills, particularly those on motorcycles. The traffic thickened, and the peaceful drive turned into a bit of a crawl.
A Close Call & A Cozy Landing
Just as we were pulling into Canmore, we had a near miss accident at a stoplight. The car in front of us started through a newly green light when two cars blew through the red, full speed, one from the left and one from the right. It was a miracle no one got hit—and an even bigger miracle we weren’t first in line. Definitely one of those moments that makes you sit up a little straighter and pause a tiny bit longer when the light turns green.
We eventually found our hotel, The Drake Inn, though we missed the turn the first time and had to loop the block. Once checked in and settled (Wi-Fi working, bags unpacked), we scoped out the hotel’s restaurant & bar—which looked great, but we decided to save it for another night since we’ll be here for a few days. Besides – we’d been in the car quite a while and wanted to stretch our legs and scope out this place we’ll be for 3 nights.
Pub Vibes & British Accents
Downtown Canmore was buzzing—restaurants packed, streets lively. It’s a Saturday so we’re hoping the town will clear out a little the next day. We’d been to Canmore back in 2011 and we’re amazed how much this town has grown in 14 years. There was a lot of construction going on which means this place is continuing to grow.
We crossed the river away from the touristy downtown and found a local spot called the Rose & Crown, a sports bar with just the right amount of character. We ordered a bowl of jalapeño Guinness cheddar chowder, and oh man, it was incredible. Rich, spicy, cheesy perfection. As time went on, the bar scene became livelier. Our bartender, John, had a thick Irish-Scottish accent and a habit of tossing coasters like frisbees at the regulars. The guys next to us were heavily tattooed, with strong British accents—tourists? Expats? Hard to say. But they seemed to know John, so maybe they’re regulars on a long stay. After they left, another pair of Brits took their place. Either Canmore is a magnet for UK travelers, there’s been a recent wave of immigration or Brits are just drawn to Rose & Crown. Either way, it made for some fun people-watching.
Cool Nights in the Mountains
Back at the room, we discovered there was no air conditioning—a surprise, but not a disaster. Nancy cracked the balcony door to let in the cool mountain air, and by morning, the room was perfectly chilled. Gotta love that Rocky Mountain breeze. This was September, so we can’t imagine how patrons deal with this during the warmer summer months.
All in all, it was a day full of unexpected turns, scenic drives, and savory surprises. Tomorrow, we’ll dig deeper into Canmore—but tonight, we’re just grateful for chowder, near misses that weren’t, and a room that cooled itself.
Day 14: Scenic Drives, Waterfalls & Flamingo Suits — A Day Around Banff
We were up and moving by 6:30am this morning, greeted by a crisp, beautiful mountain morning. It was a little chilly but refreshing. Our first mission: Tim Hortons. You’d think it’d be easy—it was literally across the street—but it was tucked inside a supermarket, and it took us a few minutes to figure that out. Once inside, we grabbed bagel sandwiches and coffee and finally got the day rolling.
Discovery Passes & Scenic Frustrations
We headed north on the Trans-Canada Highway, aiming for Banff National Park. First stop: the Discovery Pass line to purchase our annual Canadian National Park passes. The line was bout four cars deep but moved quickly. We picked up two senior passes for around $64 CAD each—roughly $80 USD. Not bad for access to some of Canada’s most iconic landscapes. And it won’t expire until September 2026 so we might just have to explore the Eastern Canadian Provinces in early fall 2026.
From there, we ventured along the Bow Valley Scenic Byway, with a goal of re-exploring Lake Louise (which we felt was amazing from our last time in this area). It’s a Sunday and traffic started getting heavier and heavier. We’d read that the recommended access to Lake Louise was by shuttle, but some personal vehicles were allowed. As we approached the lake, the traffic became brutal and we saw signs indicating that today, NO personal vehicles were allowed. But there we were, crawling through traffic only to be denied access to the jam-packed parking lot, and forced to turn around. Nancy was busy internet searching on her phone and it became clear that even the shuttle was not an option today. In fact, it seems tour companies have sprung up to meet the needs of the influx of tourists, and a new money-making business is now the norm. Time for a new plan for today.
Takakkaw Falls & Emerald Lake
We headed 30 minutes more toward Takakkaw Falls in nearby Yoho National Park. The “Tak” is the second highest waterfall in all of Canada at 1224 feet! The crowds were much thinner, and after a short hike we were able to get close and snap a few photos of the stunning cascade. It was just as spectacular as when we saw it back in 2011. Next, we stopped at the Yoho Visitor Center to regroup. With the weather turning cloudy and the crowds growing, we decided to keep things low-key.
Emerald Lake
We did make one more stop at Emerald Lake , the largest lake in Yoho National Park). On a clear, calm day, the trees and mountains reflect in the mirror of the still waters and the green water glows brilliantly – but as we mentioned, clouds were rolling in. It was still gorgeous to see the glacial waters filled with “rock flour” (fine rock ground by moving glaciers) refracting light to give it a green hue—but the area was also swarming with tourists. It felt like every person with a camera in western Canada had converged there. We took in the views, dodged the selfie sticks, and called it a day.
Game Time & Nachos at The Drake
Back at the hotel, we managed to stream a bit of the Chiefs vs. Giants game on Harrison’s phone—until it gave up halfway through the second quarter. It is a challenge to trick your phone into thinking it’s NOT in Canada, but Harrison the technology wizard made a valiant effort. We switched to something else and relaxed until dinner.
Around 6:00pm, we headed downstairs to The Drake Restaurant (our hotel’s restaurant and bar), and it turned into a great evening. We devoured a mountain of nachos, chatted with fellow traveler Angus, a retired military guy with stories to spare, and then Nancy’s friend Allison showed up. Nancy & Allison connected back in 2020 when they were paired together in a study group for an on-line class. It was wonderful to finally meet her in person after all these years. We had a long, engaging conversation with her—one of those catch-ups that feels like you’ve been lifelong friends and no time has passed.
Flamingos, Dolphins & Football
Just when we thought the night couldn’t get more entertaining, a group of guys walked in celebrating their 25-year elementary school reunion—in semi-matching outfits. We’re talking pink flamingo prints, orange and green rooster prints and blue dolphin prints – full shirt-and-matching-pants combos. It was wild and fantastic, and they even let us take their photo.
We learn that the bar is going to close for renovations in a few days and out great bar tender, Christina, is heading off on a long trip. We watched more of the game, soaked in the energy, and eventually wandered back upstairs to figure out tomorrow’s plan.
Day 15: Trails, Taxidermy & Touchdowns — A Full Day from Canmore to Banff
We kicked off the morning with a familiar ritual: breakfast at Tim Hortons. Bagel sandwiches, coffee, and a little people-watching to start the day. Afterward, Nancy headed back to the room to tackle some bills while I set off on a walk through Canmore’s extensive trail system.
And when I say extensive—I mean miles and miles of winding paths, bridges, and scenic stretches. At one point, I crossed a railroad bridge and half expected to run into a bear. Thankfully, it was just me, the trees, and the quiet hum of the morning.
Banff Bound & Surprise View
Later, we drove down to the town of Banff, starting with a stop at Surprise Corner Viewpoint, a scenic overlook framing the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel in the Spray Valley. The hotel is nicknamed the “Castle of the Rockies” and the nightly prices will shock even the best of us. Mid-week, prices per night currently range from $500 to $2850 per night! It’s an iconic photo spot, and we grabbed a few shots before heading into town.
Banff Park Museum
It’s time to explore the town of Banff. We’re hoping that since it is now Monday, the crowds will have dwindled. We find the public parking lot near the Visitor Center and were lucky to find one of THE last spaces. We popped into the Banff Park Museum, which dates back to 1905 and is the oldest natural history museum in Western Canada. It was free with your Canada Parks Pass – which we’d left in the car, so Harrison had to run back to the car to grab it. It’s filled with more than 5000 vintage stuffed animal specimens collected over the decades—quirky, a little eerie, but definitely interesting. We spent about 30 minutes exploring the exhibits before heading downtown.
Souvenirs & Sub Sandwiches
We wandered Banff Avenue, checking out shops and soaking in the alpine vibe. Harrison picked up a sweatshirt and a got another shot glass for our collection—classic road trip souvenirs. Then we stopped at Boston Pizza and split a delicious Italian sub with marinara dipping sauce. Simple, satisfying, and just what we needed. In all, Banff just wasn’t hitting any “spot” for us, so we decided to head out for further exploration in the area.
Vermilion Lakes & Lazy Bear Finds
After lunch, we drove out to Vermilion Lakes, just a few minutes from Banff. We sat by the water, gazing at Mount Rundle in the distance, took a few photos, and let the quiet settle in. The lake is renowned for it’s “golden hours” (sunset) when one can often spot wildlife while the golden glow of the setting sun lights up the water’s surface. We won’t be staying that late, but even in mid-afternoon, it’s one of those places that feels like a deep breath.
Back in Canmore, we park the car and walked downtown again—this time on a mission to find Nancy a sweatshirt, which we scored at Lazy Bear. We also stopped at Where The Buffalo Roam for a blackberry wheat beer and a vanilla latte stout. We opt for a table on the outdoor patio to enjoy the warm of the day and to enjoy some people watching. The town was much less crowded today, which made for a relaxing stop and a leisurely stroll.
Football, Fans & Flaming Karaoke
Around 5:30pm, we head back to The Drake Restaurant at our hotel to catch Monday Night Football. The game kicked off at 6:15pm (love Mountain Time zone), and we settled in with drinks and conversation. We met Peter, had a great chat, and also talked with two other guys whose names we didn’t catch. Christina, the same bartender as last night, kept things lively.
We learned that in Canada, people in the bars don’t typically watch CFL—it’s all about American NFL, all the time (at least that’s what these locals tell us). And so the evening continues with people using sports betting apps play-by-play, tracking their fantasy leagues, with plenty of Detroit Lions fans in the crowd.
Texans & Touchdowns
Just as we were about to call it a night, we met James and Katie from Dallas, Texas. We ended up chatting with them through the rest of the game, which ended with a Lions win. Karaoke was on the docket for later, and Nancy might have been planning to sing… but odds were leaning toward bedtime since it didn’t even begin until 10:00pm. Great people, great energy, and a perfect way to wrap up the day.
From scenic overlooks and lakeside quiet to football banter and new friends, today had a little bit of everything. Tomorrow’s still unwritten—but tonight, we sleep well.
Day 16: Canyon Hikes, Glacier Views & a Cozy Night in Jasper
We were up bright and early—6:00am, showered, packed, and out the door by 7:15am. First stop: McDonald’s, where we ran into a woman visiting from Germany with her young son. A quick chat, a couple of McMuffin sandwiches (no biscuits in Canada), and we were off toward the Icefields Parkway to transition to Jasper.
Icefields Parkway – Scenic Pullovers & Canyon Trails
Icefields Parkway (aka Highway 93) is one of the most spectacular scenic drives we have ever done. Condé Nast Traveller even rates it as one of the top drives in the world. We did this drive 144-mile drive 14 years ago and really wanted to get back into this part of North American again. It did not disappoint. Well, except for the fact that tourism has exploded in this area so roads and attractions were more crowded. I guess the “secret” is out.
Peyto Lake
At the Jasper Icefields Parkway gate, the ranger asked to see both of our Parks Canada passes before waving us through. We made a few roadside stops to admire the views before reaching Peyto Lake, where we hiked up to the stunning overlook known as Bow Summit. Bow Summit is the highest point on the drive from Banff to Jasper and is the highest elevation crossed by a public road in all of Canada. Peyto Lake is one of the most visited and photographed lakes in the Canadian Rockies. The lake’s vivid blue color was unreal—like something out of a painting.
Mistaya Canyon
Next we ventured into Mistaya Canyon, one of the most breathtaking spots we’ve seen. The Mistaya River that begins at Peyto Lake has carved this glorious 23-mile canyon, considered one of the best in the area. The short hike was a bit steep, but totally worth the view. The swirling rock formations and rushing water made for some incredible photos.
We stopped at a scenic overlook for lunch—beef jerky, peanut butter, Pringles, potato chips, lemon bars, and water. A true road trip feast.
Athabasca Glacier
Next up: the Athabasca Glacier, nestled in a valley surrounded by towering peaks. The glacier is one of the six principal “toes” of the Columbia Icefield and is one of the most accessible and visited glaciers in all of North America. It is approximately 2.7 miles long and covers an area of 2.3 square miles. The glacier is also known for its impressive thickness/depth, ranging from 300 to 980 feet! The entire Columbia Icefield covers 89 square miles and has depths up to 1200 feet.
The views were spectacular, and the air had that crisp alpine bite. The explosion of tourism has definitely changed this stop since we were here 14 years ago. Back then you could park in the lot about 100 yards from the base of glacier and walk to its edge. Today, you can only park at the Icefields Discovery Center across the road and pay to take a shuttle and a tour. Ah, capitalism!
Parker Ridge Hike
Then came the highlight of the day—Parker Ridge. We both did the hike back in 2011, but this time Harrison hiked solo up to the summit while Nancy stayed back at the car and took a well-needed nap. The trail was quite strenuous but exhilarating, with sweeping views of the Columbia Icefield and Apessa Glacier. It was a couple of hours round trip, and every step was worth it for the scenery and solitude.
Falls, Fire & Finding Jasper
After Parker Ridge, we stopped at Athabasca Falls, which was thankfully less crowded than usual. While not the tallest or the widest, it is among the most powerful waterfalls in Alberta. We snapped a few photos and videos, then continued toward Jasper.
Approaching & Reaching Jasper
As we approached town, the aftermath of the July to September 2024 wildfires became visible—burnt forest stretching across the mountains, and reports of 80,860 acres lost along with 360 of the 1113 buildings. We passed rows of temporary housing set up for displaced residents and for construction crews feverishly working to rebuild what was lost. Some structures, like an old Anglican church and a gas station, were visibly damaged, but the downtown core seemed mostly intact.
Settling In & Comfort Food
We checked into the Athabasca Hotel, with Nancy handling the front desk while I circled around to the back lot. This hotel has been around since 1921 and offers elegant rooms that make you feel like you are staying in a bed & breakfast. Once settled, we unpacked, got the TV going, and scoped out dinner options.
Turns out there was a Montana’s BBQ & Bar nearby (just opened 5 months ago, built after the fire) —one we’d enjoyed earlier in the trip in Medicine Hat. We walked down and met a friendly bartender from Nepal, who’d recently moved to Jasper. Dinner was hearty and satisfying—Nancy finally got her chicken-fried chicken with gravy, and we watched a bit of baseball before heading back to the room.
From canyon hikes and glacier views to wildfire scars and warm conversations, today was a powerful mix of nature’s beauty and resilience. Tomorrow, we’ll see what Kamloops has in store—but tonight, we rest well.
Day 17: Rain, Waterfalls & Baseball — From Mount Robson to Kamloops
We woke up early Wednesday morning—around 5:30am.—and the first thing we saw when we peeked out the window was a wall of rain. Not a drizzle. Not a mist. Full-on downpour. Our original plan was to walk down to Tim Hortons for breakfast, but with the skies dumping buckets, we opted to stay dry and hang out in the room for a bit.
Eventually, we made our way down to the hotel restaurant, grabbed a warm breakfast, and waited it out until about 10:00am, hoping the weather would ease up. It mostly did, but the first hour on the road was still a soggy mess—funky windshield wipers on the rental car didn’t help much.
Moose Lake
Once the rain cleared, the drive through the mountains became much more enjoyable. We made a quick stop at a gorgeous lake near Jasper—Moose Lake—and snapped a few photos before continuing north.
Waterfall Moments
About an hour later, we pulled into the Overlander Falls trailhead and decided to hike down. A busload of German tourists had just arrived, so the trail was lively with chatter in German, but we managed to weave through and enjoy the falls. It was a short, scenic hike—maybe 20 minutes round trip—and well worth the detour. There was a bear warning on the trail, but we figure with so many people on the trail we don’t have much to worry about.
Mount Robson & Grizzly Tips
Next stop: the Mount Robson Visitor Center, where we browsed exhibits on wildlife and coal mining history in the area. We thought we were settling in for a scenic video about the park, but it turned out to be more of a “how not to get eaten by a grizzly” kind of presentation. Informative, sure—but not quite what we expected.
We stepped out onto the back deck hoping for a clear view of Mount Robson, the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Unfortunately, the summit was shrouded in clouds, and we only got a tiny glimpse. Still, the setting was beautiful, and the sun finally broke through as we hit the road again.
Rolling into Kamloops
The drive to Kamloops was smooth and uneventful—light traffic, no major stops, just a steady cruise through the changing landscape. We arrived around 4:00pm and checked into the Plaza Hotel Downtown, unpacked, and settled in.
After a quick peek into the hotel bar, we decided to explore a bit and ended up at Kelly O’Bryan’s Restaurant, a cozy spot that was nearly empty when we arrived. But after a couple of beers and a solid dinner, the place started to fill up. Turns out we were just early.
We caught part of the Yankees vs. White Sox game while we ate, then wandered back to the room, flipped on the TV, and promptly fell asleep—a full day of rain, roads, and Rockies behind us.
Tomorrow’s forecast looks better, and Kamloops has more to explore. But for now, we’re tucked in and grateful for a day that turned out just fine, even with a soggy start.
Day 18: VPN Victories, Pig Pals & Football Fans — From Kamloops to Whistler
Harrison woke up super early this morning determined to crack the code on streaming football outside the USA. After some digging, he switched to NordVPN, pointed the server to Ashburn, Virginia, and figured out how to spoof the location services on his Android phone. Boom—DirecTV, Netflix, Prime, MGM, and Paramount+ all came back to life. While we had access to Netflix & Prime before, we only had access to Canadian content and not all the series we’re used to accessing while home. We had our TV back but unfortunately, Harrison’s watch is synced to his phone, so it flipped back to East Coast time which was confusing at times. It’s not like we are cheating anyone; we pay for the services and want to use them as we travel.
After getting everything running smoothly, Harrison took a shower, Nancy woke up, and Harrison got our Android tablet configured with the same VPN setup. Just in time for breakfast.
Breakfast & River Walks
We headed downstairs for the hotel’s continental breakfast—sausage, hash browns, toast, and English muffins. Nothing fancy, but it did the job.
Before hitting the road, Harrison went out for a walk along Kamloops’ riverfront park system. It’s a beautiful stretch—clear skies, safe paths, and lots of locals out walking dogs and riding bikes. Easily got in a couple hours of walking and soaked in the scenery.
Hat Creek History & Pig Surprises
On our way out of Kamloops, we stopped at an overlook with a view of a big lake and picked up a map of historical tours in British Columbia. One spot caught our eye: Hat Creek Historic Ranch (and also recommended by that makemydrivefun.com website).
Hat Creek Historic Ranch
Hat Creek Historical Ranch turned out to be a gem. The Hat Creek House was established in 1861 by a trader with the former Hudson Bay Company. What began as a small log stopping house later became a two-story structure and the largest roadhouse ever known along the Cariboo Wagon Road. The busiest period along the road was between 1885 and 1905. This roadhouse still has its original furnishings, and we spent about 90 minutes wandering through the buildings and chatting with a local guide. He introduced us to his two pet pigs, who usually would’ve been butchered—but not these two. “I give them apples every day,” he said. “They’re coming home with me.” That’s love.
Mountain Roads & Snow Tire Warnings
The drive from Hat Creek to Whistler was stunning—winding mountain roads, dramatic views, and signs everywhere warning that snow tires and chains are mandatory after October 1st. Good thing we’re just ahead of that deadline (September 24th). Mental note for next time: plan accordingly, especially since we did drive through a brief snow shower.
Whistler Arrival & Thursday Night Football
We pulled into Whistler around 5:00pm, checked into the Whistler Village Inn & Suites, and headed out to explore.
Nancy had a couple of restaurants in mind, and we ended up at a place called Tapley’s Neighborhood Pub. It was nearly empty when we arrived, and we weren’t sure if they had table service—but turns out it was just a shift change. Once things got rolling, the place filled up fast—Thursday Night Football was on, and Seattle vs. Arizona drew a surprising number of fans. Apparently, Seattle football fandom runs deep in British Columbia. The bar was packed with Seahawks jerseys and cheers by halftime.
We watched until the break, then headed out, full from dinner and buzzing from the energy.
From VPN victories to pig-saving locals and mountain football fans, today was a mix of tech triumphs, scenic drives, and unexpected connections. Tomorrow, Vancouver Island awaits.
Day 19: From Whistler to Vancouver Island — Rain, Ferries & Late-Night Laughter
We’re definitely feeling the effects of West Coast time—Harrison was wide awake at 3:00am, just staring at the ceiling. We stayed in bed until around 6:00am catching up on the latest new on our phones, then finally got up and dressed. Last night we had picked out a place for breakfast, but since it didn’t open until 8:00am, so we wandered the quiet streets of Whistler in search of something else.
That’s when we stumbled upon the Longhorn Saloon, a massive Wild West-themed sports bar that surprisingly, was serving breakfast. The two Aussie bartenders running the place were hilarious—thick accents, big personalities, and plenty of banter. Harrison ended up with a BLT-egg sandwich, and Nancy went for a sausage biscuit and hash browns. Solid breakfast, great atmosphere.
Afterward, we walked down to the Olympic Plaza, where the 2010 Winter Games held their medal ceremonies. Today it is used as an outdoor performance facility and community space. The area was full of flowers and sculptures, and we spent a while walking most of the entire well-laid out Whistler Village, just soaking it in before hitting the road.
Rainy Roads & Ferry Delays
The two-hour drive to the ferry terminal was both beautiful and stressful. The scenery was great—winding mountain roads, misty forests, and dramatic views—but the rain and our worn-out windshield wipers made it a bit of a white-knuckle experience. Add in some tailgating traffic, and it wasn’t exactly relaxing.
The Ferry to Vancouver Island
Our instructions told us to arrive at the ferry terminal at Horseshoe Bay 1.5 hours before the scheduled departure. We arrived 1 hour and 45 minutes early and they wouldn’t let us check-in. They made us leave the line and said to come back just 1 hour prior to the scheduled departure. So, we were redirected to the exit and spent the next 45 minutes looping around the nearby town in the car until we could finally return and get in line. The skies stayed gray and overcast—not ideal for photos—but we stood out on the deck of the ferry, watching the Vancouver skyline slowly come into view across the water.
Groceries, Keys & Quiche
After disembarking, we made our way toward our friend’s house on Vancouver Island. Our friend Sylvia owns a vacation rental and was allowing us to use it for free. We are here for four nights to share times with 4 former colleagues from this part of North America. Her rental is called Royston Wrecks Retreat. The traffic was heavier than expected, and the drizzle didn’t help. We stopped in Courtenay to pick up groceries at Walmart—ingredients for Nancy’s broccoli & sausage quiche, plus a much-needed new windshield wiper for the rental car.
When we arrived at Sylvia’s place, we had a bit of a struggle with the front door key code—five tries before it finally worked. Sylvia pulled in just as we got it open and explained she’d had to reprogram the key code recently because it had been acting up. Mystery solved.
We unpacked and got the grand tour of her gorgeous three-story, 4-bedroom home, complete with a master suite on the top floor and sweeping views of the bay. It’s a stunning place to land for a few days.
Pizza, Quiche & Midnight Conversations
Shortly after we settled in, two other British Columbia friends Darcy and Kathy arrived, and we all caught up while deciding on dinner. We ended up ordering pizza. While Sylvia and the others went out to pick up the pizza, we stayed behind and whipped up two sausage quiches with our fresh ingredients—breakfast for the next couple of days. The pizza hit the spot. Around 9:00pm, our final reunion attendee Kelly joined the group (from Bellingham, WA), and the evening turned into a long, lively session of stories, laughter, and conversation that stretched until 1:00am.
From rainy roads and ferry crossings to warm kitchens and late-night chats, today was a full one. We’re grateful for the cozy landing and the company of good friends. Tomorrow, the island awaits.
Day 20: Misty Walks, Shipwrecks & Surprise Cake — A Full Day on Vancouver Island
We woke up early this morning to the sound of steady misting rain outside. It was peaceful, quiet—most of the house still asleep. Harrison warmed up a slice of Nancy’s sausage quiche, poured a cup of coffee, and eased into the day.
Around 7:00am, Harrison headed out for a long walk—about an hour—despite the drizzle. He got pretty wet, but the scenery made up for it. He wandered along the bay and came across the Royston Shipwrecks, a hauntingly beautiful stretch of shoreline where several old ships sit rusting in the water, slowly being reclaimed by the sea. A surreal sight.
Donuts, Cabins & Local History
The day’s game plan was all about local sightseeing, so we piled into Sylvia’s car and headed to town to pick up a dozen donuts from Sylvia’s favorite shop. From there, we drove out to a lakefront cabin that’s been in her family for nearly 100 years. It’s currently under renovation—roofed but still a work in progress waiting for some permits to rebuild. We stood around, ate donuts, chatted, and snapped a few photos before heading back into town.
Cumberland Museum
Next stop: the Cumberland Museum, which focuses on the region’s history. Inside the museum, the exhibits were thoughtful and well-curated, with a focus on coal mining, and the contributions of Chinese, Japanese, and Indigenous communities to the area’s development. The basement is designed to look as if you are in one of the former mining tunnels.
Right across the street, we spotted a building literally labeled “Weird Church”—no explanation, just a sign and a mystery. Sylvia told us they offer “church-like” worship where everyone is welcome to pray together, sing hymns together and reflect during discussions.
Pub Lunch & Salmon Watching
For lunch, Sylvia took us to the cozy little Gladstone Brewery—great food, relaxed vibe. We lingered for about an hour and a half before heading to the salmon fish hatchery, where the salmon run was just beginning. Only a few dozen fish had arrived so far, but it was still fascinating to watch them navigate the currents. The rain continued to drizzle, adding a moody backdrop to the experience.
Scenic Drive & Dinner Prep
On the way back, Sylvia gave us a mini driving tour, pointing out the Canadian Air Force base, new housing developments, and sharing stories about how fast the area is growing. We stopped at Costco to pick up dinner supplies, including shepherd’s pie (Claire’s favorite), Caesar salad, and bread for cheesy toast.
And then—surprise! The group pulled out a birthday cake for Harrison. Totally unexpected and incredibly thoughtful.
Day 21: Trails, Timber Talk & Goats on a Roof — A Full Day on Vancouver Island
As typical, we woke up early again this morning, this time to a welcome change—no rain, and even a hint of sunrise peeking through the clouds. Harrison headed out for his morning walk, this time along the Royston Trail, clocking in about six miles before returning to the house just in time for kickoff. Kelly had to leave today, so we said our good-byes…and then there were 5.
Timber Industry Insights & Coastal Views
Shortly after the game, Sylvia returned with her father and sister, and we had a really insightful conversation. Her sister and husband work in the timber industry on the north end of the island and she shared some fascinating perspectives, especially about how tree farming is often misunderstood by environmentalists. It was eye-opening to hear how sustainability looks from the ground level.
Lunch at Shady Rest
We then headed out for a scenic drive along the coast, about 40 minutes from the house, and stopped at a cozy little placed called The Shady Rest Restaurant for lunch. Harrison had a bowl of salmon-heavy seafood chowder—not quite Alaska-level, but still satisfying—and we split a plate of schnitzel, which was amazing.
Goats on a Roof
Next stop: the quirky Coombs Old Country Market known for its goats on the roof. Yes, actual goats grazing on the rooftop. An island landmark for over 50 years, what started as a roadside stand providing fresh produce to travelers has evolved into full-on store with eclectic gifts, some locally produce foods and other great groceries. We picked up some cheese, beef jerky, and crackers for snacking later.
A Rainforest Hike
From there, we visited Cathedral Grove and took a short hike through towering 800-year-old red cedar trees reaching as high as 260 feet. This part of Vancouver Island feels like a temperate rainforest—lush with moss, ferns, and ancient trunks. It was peaceful, damp, and full of character.
Cards & Conversation
Back at the house, we were greeted by Sylvia’s husband, Travis, and spent about an hour chatting with him and Sylvia. Not long after they left, Darcy and Kathy re-joined us, and the four of us—Nancy included—settled in for a couple hours of the card game Oh Hell. Lots of laughs, a few competitive moments, and a perfect wind-down to a full day.
From misty trails and football to goats on rooftops and rainforest hikes, today was a blend of local flavor, thoughtful conversation, and good company. Tomorrow’s another chance to explore, but tonight, we rest.
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Day 22: Seals, Sea Lions & Surprise Whales — A Perfect Day on the Bay
We were up and moving by 7:30am, and once again, Harrison headed out for a quick walk around. The air was crisp, and he got back just before 9:00am—just in time for the day’s big adventure.
Sylvia arrived to take us out for a boating day, and thanks to a twist of fate, her husband’s friend Shane (from Crabby’s Fishing Charters) had a last-minute cancellation on his fishing charter. That meant we got a private boat tour of the greater bay area—and what a day it turned out to be! Kathy stayed behind to rest, so it was just Darcy, Sylvia, Claire, Shane, Harrison, and Nancy.
Wildlife Wonders on the Water
Shane’s boat was fantastic—plenty of seating, a cozy indoor cabin, and a cooler full of beer to keep things festive. We cruised through some choppy water before reaching a calmer stretch of shoreline where we spotted 106 seals—confirmed by Claire Bear, our enthusiastic junior wildlife counter. Shane said it was one of the largest groups of seals he’d ever seen in one place, likely driven in by orca whales on the hunt.
Next, we rounded a bend and were greeted by an even bigger surprise—126 sea lions, lounging, barking, and playing along the rocks (the count once again provided by our junior wildlife ranger). The mix of babies and adults, the noise, the energy—it was mesmerizing.
And then came the grand finale: humpback whales. We saw three or four, and spent nearly an hour watching them surface, spout, and even breach (well, a partial breach—but still thrilling). Whale tails, blowholes, and humps—it was like a nature documentary unfolding in real time.
Chowder, Campgrounds & Claire’s Backpack
Before lunch, we made a quick stop at a campground store so Sylvia could look for an SD card for her camera (she’d brought the camera but forgot the memory card). No luck on the card, but we did marvel at the campstore prices—$6 for a can of soup! Ouch!
We eventually made it to Heriot Bay, a charming little spot near a different campground. Because Claire is under 19, we sat in the non-pub section and had a lovely lunch. The two of us split a seafood chowder and a BLT, both of which hit the spot.
While we were there, Claire found a new backpack—her favorite brand, right there in the shop. She was thrilled, Mom was glad she was saving money on shipping by not having to order it on-line and it made for a sweet little moment.
Porch Chats & MAS*H Marathons
Back at the house, we gathered on the covered porch for a bit of post-boat relaxation. Sylvia and Claire eventually headed home—everyone was pretty wiped out.
The rest of us—Darcy, Nancy, Harrison, and Nancy—settled into one of the TV rooms and watched three episodes of MAS*H, which had us laughing out loud. We polished off the last of the birthday cake Kelly brought for Harrison and just enjoyed the easy rhythm of the evening. Unfortunately, Nancy had a bit of a reaction to lunch and ended the night feeling sick, but she bounced back by morning.
From seals and sea lions to whales and warm chowder, today was packed with wildlife, laughter, and good company. A day on the water we won’t soon forget.
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Day 23: Bicycles, Bites & Border Crossings — A Food-Filled Day in Victoria
We were up early this morning, grabbed a quick slice of quiche, and left the rest behind at the house. The goal was to hit the road by 8:00am to make it to Victoria in time for a tour, and we pretty much nailed it. Thankfully, the rain held off, and we enjoyed a scenic drive down Highway 19A, hugging the coast and soaking in the views.
With about 60 km left in the tank, we finally stopped for gas—paid around $1.60/liter, which felt steep but necessary. We rolled into Victoria and started hunting for the steamship terminal, which was also the meeting point for our food tour.
Reconciliation Day & A Thousand Bicycles
Turns out, today was a holiday, National Reconciliation Day, and the streets were blocked off for a slow-moving parade of over 1,000 cyclists—right through the area we needed to access. So, we detoured, parked, and eventually met our guide, Adrian, along with five other tour participants (whose names we never got—party foul on Nancy for not asking!). The tour kicked off with our first course at the Steamship Terminal, where Harrison had a seafood chowder and Nancy had a goat cheese salad with dried cranberries and candied pecans—a solid start.
The sun came out, and the harbor was stunning. As we started our tour, we snapped a bunch of photos and admired the Hotel Fairmont Empress. We learn this hotel is known as the Castle on the Coast and has 431 luxury rooms and suites. In 2024, Travel + Leisure Magazine named it the #1 Best Canadian Hotel. One of the couples on our tour is staying there for their honeymoon and they said it lives up to its reputation.
A Global Food Crawl
From there, the tour took us on a whirlwind of main course flavors:
- Korean hot dog wrapped in a donut batter—Nancy loved it, Harrison thought it was just okay.
- Mexican mole chicken tacos—rich and flavorful. Harrison loved this one and Nancy thought it was just okay.
- Middle Eastern saffron rice with curried beef and beans—finally, we agreed: this one was a winner.
Then came the dessert trifecta at three different places:
- A pecan tart—sweet and nutty.
- A phenomenal hot chocolate paired with a chocolate truffle—decadent and rich.
- A macaron shop run by two French immigrants. We each picked two flavors:
- Nancy: bacon & cream cheese, blueberry dark chocolate
- Harrison: peach, pumpkin spice
Honestly, the macarons were a letdown—overly sweet and not nearly as refined as we’d hoped. Probably our least favorite stop of the day.
Ferry Lines & Customs Quips
After the tour, we drove a short distance to the ferry dock, arriving around 1:30pm for a 3:00pm departure. We were nearly the last car in line but made it through customs with minimal hassle.
The ferry ride took about an hour and a half, and once we landed, we had to go through a second round of customs. The agent asked about our cooler—empty, of course—and joked, “Where are you going next?” and without skipping a beat, Harrison replied “to fill it back up”. The agent just laughed and waved us through.
Gastro Pub & Game Night in Port Angeles Washington
Our hotel was only a few short blocks from customs and it’s not long before we are checked in and head downtown looking for someplace to eat. We ended the day at the Next Door Gastropub, where Harrison had a great hamburger and Nancy went for a bowl of macaroni and cheese. We watched the Yankees lose to the Red Sox, which felt like a win in itself, and then headed back to the room for a quiet, sleepy night.
From bicycle parades and chowder bowls to border crossings and baseball, today was packed with flavor, fun, and a few unexpected turns. Tomorrow, the road continues.
Summary
We had an absolute blast crossing Canada and visiting friends here and there as we traveled.
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